# Instruments and Equipment > Videos, Pictures & Sound Files >  Mid-'23 replica

## Bill Halsey

My preferred F-5 production period...

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## sunburst

That's got the look alright!
Not a replica though, too clean (especially in the scroll) and not enough frets. :Wink: 
I'd sure like to hear it...

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## Bill Halsey

Right about the number of frets, John -- seems to be a preference for the attenuated extension.  This also has a conically curved board with slightly wider-than-vintage frets; and I've increased the headstock angle to 16 deg., which is a bit steep for that period (but I like it).  One more thing I do that isn't really typical of originals is to fit the MOP nut with the reflective side visible, rather than toward the h/s.

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## djweiss

Beautiful, Bill.  Looks like a keeper to me.

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## sunburst

All improvements, those differences, IMO.
Interesting approach; build the same thing as a Loar but add improvements, and it still looks like a Loar.
I keep looking at it... the color, sheen, contours, all say "loar" loud and clear. The wood's a little nicer than I usually expect to see in a Loar, but that's another improvement IMO. Very well done!

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## Mike Black

Very, Very Nice Bill !!!!  It looks beautiful.  I'm sure it sounds as good as it looks.

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## MandoNicity

Wow!  Fantastic pics!  More mando-porn!   :Wink: 

JR

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## Mandolin Mick

Bill-

Have any shots of it straight on? That angle isn't the best for a good look, although I like what I see!

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## danb

Drop-dead gorgeous Bill!

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## Skip Kelley

Bill, that mandolin scream's 23' Loar!! It has the look; I would love to put a pick to it!
Awesome job!!

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## Chuck Naill

> That's got the look alright!
> Not a replica though, too clean (especially in the scroll) and not enough frets.
> I'd sure like to hear it...


I was thinking the same thing about the number if frets. It's good to know I am learning...lol!!

Beautiful instrument. Congratulations!!!!

chuck

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## Steve-o

Simply breathtaking!  Nice to see such workmanship coming out of Kalamazoo.

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## JEStanek

Always a pleasure seeing another one of your builds, Bill.  Practically perfect in every way.

Jamie

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## f5joe

I have had the pleasure of playing and drooling on this instrument.  I've played a LOT of good mandolins and original Loars.  This mandolin must sound like a Loar did new.

Bill's attention to detail is impecable.  I was honored to touch it.  Joe

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## Bill Halsey

> Bill-
> 
> Have any shots of it straight on? That angle isn't the best for a good look, although I like what I see!


Mick, thank you for asking.  I don't usually take "mug shots", as I find them uninteresting.  I try for views that show modeling & details, and provide more of a "real-life" feel.

These may be a little closer to your request...

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## Bill Halsey

A couple more...



Ebony extension support.




Dovetailed ivory points.

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## Mandolin Mick

Bill-

Thanx!!! The 2nd from the right in the first posting went up as my wallpaper :Smile:

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## Don Grieser

Be still, my MAS. Boy howdy, that's as good as it gets.

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## Bill Van Liere

Bill - about a year and a half back I played a mandolin you built and loaned to Tim Lewis. Same mandolin? (not sure how many you build or are still involved in bow making)

Bill Van Liere
GR MI

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## pjlama

Wow!

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## Skip Kelley

Bill, I had to look again! The mandolin is so perfect!

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## Eric Hanson

Stunning, just stunning. 
 What are the possibilities for a chance to put a pick to this one? Is it already spoken for? 
 I am planning a trip to MI the first part of August. Might need to make a side trip on my way further North. :Confused:

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## Bill Halsey

I think a lot of makers probably make some of the accessory items on their instruments; possibly to an even greater extent than violin makers.

Mulling over this business of "replication", here's a recap of some of the parts & fittings I make to try to achieve a vintage appearance...


I use titanium for strength and lightness in the trussrod, but I've stuck with the old-style 1/4" hex nut.


I make the endpins in the original style.


Again, I use Ti for the bridge studs and aluminum for the thumbwheels, for a 15% weight saving and a noticeably quicker response, which may not appeal to everyone.
I usually use ebony from Madagascar, Ceylon or Viet Nam that is finer-grained and blacker than most of the originals, but I don't get any complaints about that.


I make the celluloid fingerrest and all its parts.

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## Bill Halsey

I'll mention one more accessory that I put some effort into.  This has appeared before on this forum, but it sort of fits here.  I like the Elite tuners okay, but modify them to more of a vintage appearance and function.



I re-machine the pinion gears to the old, plainer appearance, and make the blued, slotted flat-head machine screws.  I also use slotted #3 round head screws for attaching the machines and tailpiece.  The button shafts are shortened to the proper length, filed square for MOP knobs, and drilled & tapped to receive the screws & washers.


(Uh, oh -- mustn't show the naughty bits...)  :Whistling: 
I turn the string posts to the old "top-hat" design, which allows the strings to be wound down next to the ferrules for better operation.

That's about it.  I appreciate and thank you for all your kind responses.  Sure makes this kind of work more enjoyable to have a place like this to share it.

Cheers,

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jasona

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## mtucker

Really nice, Bill. It's the small details that take tons of time and mostly go unnoticed that really add up, whether its a top quality car build or a fine instrument, such as yours.

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## Skip Kelley

Bill, I love the strategically placed leaf over the inlay!  :Smile:

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jasona

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## Paul Statman

Wow, Bill ~ you're really knocking off some socks. You get five titanium stars from me, sir! Absolutely beautiful. Now, if it sounds as good as it looks, I'm feeling an itch.. :Mandosmiley:

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## MandoNicity

Absolutely stunning work Bill!  If I were in the market for a Loar replica you would most definitely be at the top of my list.  Good thing I've lost my scroll envy.   :Wink: 

JR

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## f5loar

That's what you call "nailing it".  That is dead on, right church , right pew on the some of the '23 colors I've seen.

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jasona

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## Bill Halsey

> Absolutely stunning work Bill!  If I were in the market for a Loar replica you would most definitely be at the top of my list.  Good thing I've lost my scroll envy.  
> 
> JR


Uh-oh -- _scroll dysfunction_.

I know, its disconcerting when the scroll flame flickers.  Often, the initial symptoms are subtle, such as an increased interest in old-time music, or perhaps something so innocent as merely forgetting where the strap goes. As time advances, its not unusual to experience more frequent attacks of ennui when confronted by spiral forms.  If ignored or untreated, it can eventually lead to a persistent urge to sell or trade your mandolin for an A-style.

Occasionally, a weekend at a gathering such as a Bluegrass festival or at a convention like the IBMA will be sufficient to reignite the spark and once again renew the old scroll passion.

However, theres a sphere of research already in place with the purpose of addressing this complex, from which have sprung several remedies for this unfortunate condition.  So far, the most effective of these nostrums appears to be a remarkable product called _Effiveagra_.  When administered as prescribed, pilot study patients have generally responded, albeit temporarily, with a renewed ability to not only play a mandolin having a scroll, but often can do so for a grueling evening of three or more sets in the same gig, and with no apparent side-effects!  Of course, normal disclaimers and precautions apply.

_(Thank you, JR -- and please forgive me for the spoof...)_

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## grassrootphilosopher

As this is indeed one of the finest color schemes, scroll execution, side binding (albeit shortened fretboard), I really really would like to hear a soundbyte from this (or a similar) mandolin. Chances might be slim, but are there any in Europe?

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## Bill Halsey

Olaf, there are none there that I know of.  For me, international trade in bows proved an impossible hassle and I don't intend to go there with mandolins.  Thank you for asking; I wish you could hear one, too.  Perhaps someday I'll gain the skills to produce a sound byte.

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## testore

I'm speechless! And that is VERY hard to do, just ask my wife. WOW!!!!

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## mandomania7923

bill, this is absolutely gorgeous. will you be at IBMA?

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## Bill Halsey

I may try IBMA someday -- everyone says it's such a blast!

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## carleshicks

Wow Bill.  You are the Master. Now I definetly need to make it to the Garage Mahl.

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## Darryl Wolfe

Looks fabulous Bill

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## hank

Bill, Bill, Bill,  Effiveagra?  None the less that sure is one beautiful Effive.  I don't know about the rest of the Cafe clientele but talk about bodacious tata's.  Your making us all drool you heartless purveyor of scroll gratification.

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## MandoNicity

> Uh-oh -- _scroll dysfunction_.
> 
> I know, it’s disconcerting when the scroll flame flickers.  Often, the initial symptoms are subtle, such as an increased interest in old-time music, or perhaps something so innocent as merely forgetting where the strap goes. As time advances, it’s not unusual to experience more frequent attacks of ennui when confronted by spiral forms.  If ignored or untreated, it can eventually lead to a persistent urge to sell or trade your mandolin for an A-style.
> 
> Occasionally, a weekend at a gathering such as a Bluegrass festival or at a convention like the IBMA will be sufficient to reignite the spark and once again renew the old scroll passion.
> 
> However, there’s a sphere of research already in place with the purpose of addressing this complex, from which have sprung several remedies for this unfortunate condition.  So far, the most effective of these nostrums appears to be a remarkable product called _Effiveagra_.  When administered as prescribed, pilot study patients have generally responded, albeit temporarily, with a renewed ability to not only play a mandolin having a scroll, but often can do so for a grueling evening of three or more sets in the same gig, and with no apparent side-effects!  Of course, normal disclaimers and precautions apply.
> 
> _(Thank you, JR -- and please forgive me for the spoof...)_


Very clever and very funny!  These days my hunger is for 2-pointers especially asymetrical 2-pointers and there ilk.  I already have an F so we can all breath easy.  I do still have a hankering for an old F-2 or F-4 though.  Maybe it's all in remission.   :Wink: 

JR

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## Spruce

> Really nice, Bill. It's the small details that take tons of time and mostly go unnoticed that really add up....


Yeah, like those points....   :Disbelief: 

That's the nicest execution of Loar-era points I've seen....
Hard to do, Bill?

Thanks for sharing those pics...

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## Cheryl Watson

Wow!  Mostly the look of an authentic Loar but with some subtle modern improvements and more perfection in the fit and finish.  Oh, I would love to hear (and play) this mandolin!

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## f5joe

I got to play this very mandolin in a jam session recently.  She holds her own on the tone.  Very, very impressive.

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## grassrootphilosopher

> I got to play this very mandolin in a jam session recently.  She holds her own on the tone.  Very, very impressive.


Joe,

as I see your instruments in your avatar and having read the forum enough to know that you are/were a vintage instrument owner, could you please elaborate your opinion about this instruments tone, projection, feel, playability and workmanship as opposed to your Dudenbostel and Duff. I´d appreciate your comment.

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## Bill Halsey

> That's the nicest execution of Loar-era points I've seen....
> Hard to do, Bill?


Gibson produced the flat for the point (probably on a disc sander) to an approximate width, before the plates went on.  Very quick, easy way to do it, but the width of the finished point can (and did) vary, depending upon the binding thickness, etc.

I'm not quite there yet with mine, so I bind it first, then go in and cut the point flat to match (more or less).  Next one, I'll try it their way.

And those one-sided dovetails -- well, that's another matter.  I just try to be careful.  If you've never done one, the angles on the end of the point may be a little surprising.

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## HoGo

I've done the one-sided dovetails on points of several mandolins and it's not that hard to do, just be prepared for hour or so for fitting one point and be ready to throw away the point material if you file it too short while fitting :-)
I hope more folks will appreciate those tiny details. That's what defines the "old" craftsmanship character to me. They were trying to get the work done effectively but didn't compromise the details.

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## f5joe

> Joe,
> 
> as I see your instruments in your avatar and having read the forum enough to know that you are/were a vintage instrument owner, could you please elaborate your opinion about this instruments tone, projection, feel, playability and workmanship as opposed to your Dudenbostel and Duff. I´d appreciate your comment.


I'd likely offend any of these builders by describing any one as "better" in any category.  All have a tone that I find appealing.  I am not looking for an exact Loar tone even though I use the Loar tone as the benchmark.  I will say that the Halsey may be the closest to a Loar tone of new mandos I've played recently.

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## Timbofood

Mr. Van Liere, 
No, the one I had the distinct pleasure of playing for an extended priod was the "Prototype"  Bill's using that as a "working instrument."   I saw this one just prior to final tuning and adjusting and as nice as the pictures are, it's even more lovely in hand, with or without strings it was a real treat to see.  The thing that does not come accross so well is the "fondness" that I have been lucky enough to see in each of Bill's construction projects.  Not all being instruments, the man just has a "head for wood."
I always like to see what projects are on the bench when we have a chance to visit!  Strong work Bill!

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## grassrootphilosopher

> I'd likely offend any of these builders by describing any one as "better" in any category.  All have a tone that I find appealing.  I am not looking for an exact Loar tone even though I use the Loar tone as the benchmark.  I will say that the Halsey may be the closest to a Loar tone of new mandos I've played recently.


Joe,

I´m truely not interested in any evaluation of an instrument that uses the terms better or lesser. You´ve got great mandos in your avatar and you have played another great mando. I am just interested in a - subjective -description as to how the mandolins sound. I have played two Gilchrists (# 500 and #502) that had the same sound qualities even though they had a different personality. This was very interesting for me to experience. So if you don´t mind I´d still like to hear a description.

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## AlanN

Well-said, f5joe. I bet you could sell brass knuckles to Ghandi!  :Laughing:

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## Bill Van Liere

Thanks Tim, er, Mr. Lewis

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## f5joe

> Well-said, f5joe. I bet you could sell brass knuckles to Ghandi!


Thanks.  I'll take that as a compliment.

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## f5joe

> Joe,
> 
> I´m truely not interested in any evaluation of an instrument that uses the terms better or lesser. You´ve got great mandos in your avatar and you have played another great mando. I am just interested in a - subjective -description as to how the mandolins sound. I have played two Gilchrists (# 500 and #502) that had the same sound qualities even though they had a different personality. This was very interesting for me to experience. So if you don´t mind I´d still like to hear a description.


My Dude has a slightly darker tone than most Loars ... to my ear anyway.  My Duff has a very crisp, edgy tone that cuts through the mix well.  The Halsey has a tone somewhere in between .... based on my limited time with it.

Fit and finish on all three are top of the table.

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## Michael Cameron

BH,is there any chance of that galvonic confusion thing happening between the aluminum wheels and the Ti bolts?

Remarkable mandolin,sir!

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## Bill Halsey

Interesting question, Micheal.  Ti is right next to silver & gold for nobility, so not much to worry about there.  Al is toward the other end of the scale, esp. when alloyed with copper for strength.  However, electrolysis won't occur in the absence of an electrolyte -- so, absent the player repeatedly profusely perspiring (salt water) right on the bridge over a period of time, it probably won't be an issue.

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## grassrootphilosopher

> My Dude has a slightly darker tone than most Loars ... to my ear anyway.  My Duff has a very crisp, edgy tone that cuts through the mix well.  The Halsey has a tone somewhere in between .... based on my limited time with it.
> 
> Fit and finish on all three are top of the table.


Thanks for reporting your impressions. I just returned from an informal gathering with a bunch of mandos (Vanden, Gilchrist, Distressed Master Model, Varnished Fern, Duff, Stiver, A-50, teens F-2, F-5L, Ratliff, etc.) with a couple of days of musical overkill. I must say that I enjoyed listening to the variety though I had my sonic preferences (F-2 [stellar], Farnish Fern over DMM, A-50 quite allright, Stiver - interesting). 

Based on my Duff-experience I can agree with your statement about their tone. Therefore I can follow your statement about the sound of the Dude and the Halsey. That makes it very interesting!

And revisting the thread I again must applaude the pictures.

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## Mark Seale

> Interesting question, Micheal.  Ti is right next to silver & gold for nobility, so not much to worry about there.  Al is toward the other end of the scale, esp. when alloyed with copper for strength.  However, electrolysis won't occur in the absence of an electrolyte -- so, absent the player repeatedly profusely perspiring (salt water) right on the bridge over a period of time, it probably won't be an issue.


Depending on where the instrument ends up climate wise it could be a bit of an issue.  I use a copper based anti-seize compound on all of the Ti parts that come in contact with Al parts on my bicycles.  Granted, they get sweated on a bit, but here in south Texas, my wrist and arm can get pretty sweaty too not to mention just the relative humidity of the environment.

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## Michael Cameron

I keep coming back to look at this mandolin. Trying to find something/anything I don't like. To pick the proverbial nit,I might opt for not drilling a hole in the bottom rib for the pickguard;but,that is most likely a mid-'23 standard spec.

Awesome mandolin,sir! Must have,at least,something to do with your physical location. Not just Kalamazoo;but,living downstream from Nugget couldn't hurt.

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## Paul Statman

> To pick the proverbial nit,I might opt for not drilling a hole in the bottom rib for the pickguard;but,that is most likely a mid-'23 standard spec.


pmmhhff..I'll take one, nits an' all!

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## carleshicks

Anything from Bills shop is a flawless Gem. He is on my top 5 list.

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## Andrew B. Carlson

Bill, that is the pinnacle of mandolin craftsmanship! I'd put something like that at the top of my wishlist. It is truly a work of art. I love attention to detail and you've defined it with that mandolin. What's one of those go far anyway? :Whistling:

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## Scotti Adams

Thanks for bumping this thread. This mando was then and still is one of the best looking mandos that have ever crossed these pages for my money. One of my all time favorites. Along with Mrs Hestor's creations they dont get much better than that.

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## Bill Halsey

My thanks for the kind posts.

Andrew, I'll PM you.

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## Phil Goodson

Bill,
I can't tell from the pictures, is the peghead tapered or are the front & back surfaces parallel?

Please PM me the cost also.

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## Bill Halsey

The headstock thickness tapers and becomes greater toward the nut, providing extra strength around the trussrod pocket.

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## SternART

Nice burst!!!

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## Paul Statman

Is that ebony or dyed pear wood for the peg head veneer?

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## Bill Halsey

Hi, Paul -- that's dyed pear wood, front & back, per the originals.  Ebony never looks right.  The finish develops just the right patina over pear wood.

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## Bob Clark

> Hi, Paul -- that's dyed pear wood, front & back, per the originals.  Ebony never looks right.  The finish develops just the right patina over pear wood.


Is pear wood hard to come by?  I'm a pear grower and from time to time, I have to replace some trees.  I could save some trunks the next time I do that, if any of the luthiers here are interested.

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## Andrew B. Carlson

Sweet revival! This is one of my all time favorite threads.

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## Paul Statman

Originally Posted by Bill Halsey  
_Hi, Paul -- that's dyed pear wood, front & back, per the originals. Ebony never looks right. The finish develops just the right patina over pear wood._

Bless you, Bill. I don't really get to enjoy the subtleties of your meticulous work via my back-lit computer screen! What a true gem this mandolin is. I had to come back and revisit today. It has haunted me since I first saw it, and it's been popping into my head lately!. I can't find a single thing not to love about it, or your ethos. 
*Regarding the bridge:neck angle - I suppose you considered using a 'tall boy' saddle?

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## jasona

> My preferred F-5 production period...


Definitely a beauty! And  in the right town too!

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## jasona

> Be still, my MAS. Boy howdy, that's as good as it gets.


No kidding eh? Those closeups show no flaws, and that finish...

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## Bill Halsey

> Is pear wood hard to come by?  I'm a pear grower and from time to time, I have to replace some trees.  I could save some trunks the next time I do that, if any of the luthiers here are interested.


Bob, that's a considerate idea.  I don't know the different kinds of pear, but I imagine there are makers in your area who would appreciate it.  Pear wood is available, but not in the dimensions required to replicate the old Gibbies, nor is it usually stained black in the old way.  So, as with so many details, it needs to be custom milled & stained.  Also, it may be used for lute pegs and similar accessories.

If you do harvest some for use as timber, it would be important to seal the ends of the billets ASAP, meaning same day.  Wax is popular, but I like Titebond glue (original formula) for that purpose.  It's relatively inexpensive, dries clear, and doesn't flake off.

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## Bill Halsey

> Originally Posted by Bill Halsey  *Regarding the bridge:neck angle - I suppose you considered using a 'tall boy' saddle?


I'm not familiar with this saddle, but shouldn't be a need for anything unusual.  I make my own bridges & hardware, and usually aim for a final saddle height of about 13/16".  Too much break angle can choke up an instrument and harden up the tone & response a bit much.

Thanks for the generous comments.  I am back to bow making now, and haven't made mandos for a while.  Still think about and research them, and certainly look forward to doing some more.

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## Bob Clark

> Bob, that's a considerate idea.  I don't know the different kinds of pear, but I imagine there are makers in your area who would appreciate it.  Pear wood is available, but not in the dimensions required to replicate the old Gibbies, nor is it usually stained black in the old way.  So, as with so many details, it needs to be custom milled & stained.  Also, it may be used for lute pegs and similar accessories.
> 
> If you do harvest some for use as timber, it would be important to seal the ends of the billets ASAP, meaning same day.  Wax is popular, but I like Titebond glue (original formula) for that purpose.  It's relatively inexpensive, dries clear, and doesn't flake off.


Thanks for the information Bill.  My trees are Asian pears as opposed to the usual European pears, so I don't know if that would matter.  I don't push trees out all that often but next time I do, I'll seal the wood as you suggest, take pictures, and put up a post offering them free to any Luthier who might be interested.  Some of my trunks are quite large in diameter (for orchard wood) and might be of use to someone.  It would be fun for me to be able to share them with one of our Cafe Luthiers!

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## Paul Statman

> I'm not familiar with this saddle, but shouldn't be a need for anything unusual.  I make my own bridges & hardware, and usually aim for a final saddle height of about 13/16".  Too much break angle can choke up an instrument and harden up the tone & response a bit much.
> 
> Thanks for the generous comments.  I am back to bow making now, and haven't made mandos for a while.  Still think about and research them, and certainly look forward to doing some more.


Bill~ I have a C.A. tallboy saddle on one mando since increasing the neck angle required more height. Rather than jacking it up to sit high on the studs, a 'taller' saddle was installed. If yours doesn't tend to lean forward, you probably don't need it.

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## Bill Halsey

That sounds like a good idea for your mandolin, engaging more stud length would increase stability for sure.
BTW, I fit my bridge to the top with a slight back angle (like a violin) to bisect the break angle, which helps to keep it from being pulled over.

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## f5loar

Just how many of these type F5s do you make a year?  Do you realize if you only changed details on about 4 areas yours would be more like a Loar than the current MMs at Gibson?  I've not seen an MM or DMM with that near perfect of a Loar color come out of Gibson since Mr. Loar left the place.

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## Jim Garber

I have a feeling that if you keep going and refining the minute details you will surpass all Loars and your mandolins will be more accurate than the originals.  :Smile: 

Wonderful stuff, Bill. Keep up the good work. You are not even listed in the builder list -- at least that I could find.

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## Bill Halsey

> Just how many of these type F5s do you make a year?  Do you realize if you only changed details on about 4 areas yours would be more like a Loar than the current MMs at Gibson?  I've not seen an MM or DMM with that near perfect of a Loar color come out of Gibson since Mr. Loar left the place.


I'm not making any right now, Tom -- I reached the end of my client list a while back and am doing just bows now, which is fine.  The mandolin thing has always been more of a hobby with me, which gives me a lot of time to think about them in the off months.

I would be grateful for your input on details, Tom.  Anything to bring about the look & feel of the originals is very welcome, and perhaps of interest to other readers of this thread as well.

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## Paul Statman

> That sounds like a good idea for your mandolin, engaging more stud length would increase stability for sure.
> BTW, I fit my bridge to the top with a slight back angle (like a violin) to bisect the break angle, which helps to keep it from being pulled over.


That's the best way (yet again), Bill!

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## sunburst

> ...which helps to keep it from being pulled over.


That, and obeying all traffic laws...

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## Bill Halsey

:Laughing:

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## f5loar

You didn't say if you still have this one or sold it.  If you still got it make a trip down South to NC and we can sit and compare lots of details.  I couldn't be more serious about your Cremona shading.  Find me a MM that close.

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## Bill Halsey

Those mandolins were all made to order, Tom.  However, I did make an extra one for myself, I'll put a few shots of it here.  There's a bit of a color shift in these photos, it's not this orange.  I always struggle with that in the camera.  At any rate, I think the vignette is a bit too contrasty for my taste.

http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

Oops, don't know why all the url's in blue -- not so good at the computer...

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Marty Jacobson, 

Steve-o

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## Glassweb

OUCH! Fantastic work Bill...

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## Paul Statman

I'll have some sweet dreams after seeing these tonight, Bill! Thanks for posting this tasty piece.

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## Bill Halsey

Also, I've been trying to learn to engrave my own t/p covers in the old style:

http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

Dang...well, there's the blue url again... clues, anyone?  :Confused:  _(he's not so bright...)_

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Marty Jacobson

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## Andrew B. Carlson

wow. Bill, you are a true craftsman.

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## sunburst

> ...clues, anyone?  _(he's not so bright...)_


I think the software here automatically does that if you cut and paste a URL, or otherwise post an entire URL. If it's blue, it's a link.

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## JEStanek

You need to post the link into the add photo box as a url, I think, rather than just pasting the link.

Jamie

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## carleshicks

Phenomenal work Bill.

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## jasona

think Scott recently posted a link to a video for how to do it yourself.

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