# Octaves, Zouks, Citterns, Tenors and Electrics > CBOM >  The Birth of a MandoBeast

## Rob Zamites

I know that I've been posting most of my stuff in the builders' section, but just wanted my fellow CBOMers to see a preview of what I'm building:

  

She's very wide, and very thick. Might call her "Rosie"

 :Laughing:

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GKWilson

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## rubydubyr

Cool!  I'll be looing forward to hearing it played when finished.   :Smile:

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Rob Zamites

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## Eddie Sheehy

It could double as a snare for a Jackalope...  Looking forward to seeing it finished, Rob.

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Rob Zamites

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## Mike Anderson

Following this build with great interest my friend!  :Cool:

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Rob Zamites

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## bratsche

Me four...  :Laughing: 

bratsche

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

Tonight's steps are fitting and gluing the top and bottom kerning strips, then sanding the surfaces flat for the soundboard and back. Will also likely cut some fancy shape in the headstock, play around with a few soundhole designs and make a decision on when to take the plunge, break out the dremel and cut the actual sound hole. 

I'm actually kind of a fan of the sound hole in the center (MC-2) model:


Opinons?

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## Marty Jacobson

That's a Selmerish sound hole, and looks pretty good. The shape of the soundhole on Mark Kunkel's S.O. Smith "Rosie" - not kidding - is also a good shape that you might consider.
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...th-Octave-Zouk

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Rob Zamites

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## Mike Anderson

> That's a Selmerish sound hole, and looks pretty good. The shape of the soundhole on Mark Kunkel's S.O. Smith "Rosie" - not kidding - is also a good shape that you might consider.
> http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...th-Octave-Zouk


Yeah, very Selmer-ish indeed, and I think a good choice for the oval body shape. Or a plain oval like the Fylde Ocatvius design maybe?

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

And then I found this plectrum shaped soundhole...



The things I have to keep in consideration:

location of X top bracinglocation of bridge support plateimpingment on fretboard (how much will I have to cut away)
The directions for this kit specify making a perpendicular line _X_ inches below the bottom edge of the soundhole, but I got frisky and got a solid top piece. I suppse I'll have to guesstimate the scale length with a straightedge then plan accordingly...what have I gotten myself into?! 

 :Laughing:   :Whistling:

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## Rvl

> Tonight's steps are fitting and gluing the top and bottom kerning strips, then sanding the surfaces flat for the soundboard and back. Will also likely cut some fancy shape in the headstock, play around with a few soundhole designs and make a decision on when to take the plunge, break out the dremel and cut the actual sound hole. 
> 
> I'm actually kind of a fan of the sound hole in the center (MC-2) model:
> 
> 
> Opinons?


I have the MC-3

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## Rob Zamites

Got the lining glued in top and bottom, and sanded everything nice and flat with my homemade sanding block:













Not bad for a week's work during after work hours. I have the next 3 days off, so should make more progress. I wondered about leaving the top plate solid and cutting side sound ports, but dismissed that idea after some research in the builders section of the forums!

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## NotMelloCello

Put any more clamps on there, and it will look like you are building a porcupine, Rob!

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## acousticphd

> I know that I've been posting most of my stuff in the builders' section, but just wanted my fellow CBOMers to see a preview of what I'm building:
> 
>   
> 
> She's very wide, and very thick. Might call her "Rosie"



I'm interested in how you decided on your neck/heel design.  If I am seeing it right, there is no neck "joint", and instead the sides are fit into the neck, like a traditional classical guitar?  I'm curious why the side slots are cut (seemingly) so deep, which seems to result in the neck being very narrow at that point.  

Do you design any further reinforcement between the neck and tail block, like a rod or dowel?

I'm interested in seeing your project develop through to the instrument!

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## bratsche

Shouldn't that be kerfing, not kerning? (I doubt you'll have need of any kerning, except perhaps when it's time to make your label.  :Wink:  )

In any case, it looks more like lining than kerfing (no segments, at least that I can see).  Interesting. 

I like the plectrum shaped soundhole, personally.  Weird about the measurements thing.  Perhaps you should have asked them to mark the place where the bottom edge of the soundhole would have been, had they cut one.  I know, hindsight is 20/20.

bratsche

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## Rob Zamites

> I'm interested in how you decided on your neck/heel design.  If I am seeing it right, there is no neck "joint", and instead the sides are fit into the neck, like a traditional classical guitar?  I'm curious why the side slots are cut (seemingly) so deep, which seems to result in the neck being very narrow at that point.  
> 
> Do you design any further reinforcement between the neck and tail block, like a rod or dowel?
> 
> I'm interested in seeing your project develop through to the instrument!


That wasn't my idea, it's all the brainchild of Musicmakers - this is their 'Renaissance Guitar' kit, but with their 'Octave Mandolin' bridge and strings, and the headstock drilled for 8 tuners. I'll do another kit after this, and step up my game, then when I finally go 'from scratch' as it were, I'll go with the old tried and true methods. FWIW, the neck and tailblock are one piece.




> Shouldn't that be kerfing, not kerning? (I doubt you'll have need of any kerning, except perhaps when it's time to make your label.  )
> 
> In any case, it looks more like lining than kerfing (no segments, at least that I can see).  Interesting. 
> 
> I like the plectrum shaped soundhole, personally.  Weird about the measurements thing.  Perhaps you should have asked them to mark the place where the bottom edge of the soundhole would have been, had they cut one.  I know, hindsight is 20/20.
> 
> bratsche


I edited my post - I'm new to the luthierie game and the nomenclature at this point. I promise I'll get better, bratsche!

I like the plectrum shape as well, though in a dream I saw myself cutting out an infinity  symbol, and it was nice looking. Still doing some measurements and fidgeting around with soundhole ideas, I've nothing but time, and I'm not trying to rush through this.

If I was in a hurry, I'd have build a strumstick or something  :Whistling:

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## Eddie Sheehy

How come only McPherson and Wiishevsky set their D sound holes off center?

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## Rob Zamites

> How come only McPherson and Wiishevsky set their D sound holes off center?


Just a guess:

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## garryireland

Looking good.  I think id go for a Sobell type soundhole, might suit that big body.  Its a sort of similar to the pick style just bigger.  Id love to make one of these.  Good on ya Rob

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## Rob Zamites

And another night's work finished; top braces and bridge plate installed, soundhole designed and cut out. I am loving my Dremel.




Tomorrow:
getting more clampsgluing up top and trimming excessgluing up back bracesfill in gaps in side/heel slots with glue & walnut dust mix

That should fill the bulk of the day!

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## garryireland

> And another night's work finished; top braces and bridge plate installed, soundhole designed and cut out. I am loving my Dremel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tomorrow:
> getting more clampsgluing up top and trimming excessgluing up back bracesfill in gaps in side/heel slots with glue & walnut dust mix
> 
> That should fill the bulk of the day!


Ill have one of those!

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## Bernie Daniel

Looking very nice Rob.  The sound hole was well conceived and executed!   Where is you first string on this build?

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Rob Zamites

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## Londy

sweet.  I also did like the pic of the pick shaped hole...

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

> Looking very nice Rob.  The sound hole was well conceived and executed!   Where is you first string on this build?


Well, the first string is still coiled up in the plastic pack it came in. Is that what you meant?  :Confused:

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Marty Jacobson

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## JH Murray

Are you using the dremel to cut the sound hole? If so what attachment has worked the best?

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## Rob Zamites

> Are you using the dremel to cut the sound hole? If so what attachment has worked the best?


I used the circle and straight edge attachment that came with my model 4000 Kit. I used the general purpose spiral cutting bit, and it did a pretty damned good job:



Now that I'm at the top plate gluing stage, I bought a small trim router and a set of router bits (not like I'm going to not use them later!), plus a Dremel shaper/router table attachment, likely for trimming out my own braces and bindings later on.

Thanks for asking!

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JH Murray

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## garryireland

Would you build these to sell/order?

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## Rob Zamites

> Would you build these to sell/order?


While I'm flattered you'd even ask, please keep in mind that this is only my first _kit_ build, and there's likely to be myriads of flaws when I finally have it done. After another kit or two, I might consider myself decent enough to try building something from scratch, and then only after a few of those would I even consider taking an order.

My new router and flush cut bit did a damned fine job - started gluing the back bracing now, too!

  

The back is now being clamped under my freebie 3/4" plywood scraps:

 
This ensures the back is flat and the braces glue down along their whole surface. Tomorrow will be adding a label inside the back plate, signing it, then gluing up the back, drying and flush trimming. More pictures tomorrow!

 :Whistling:

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## Bertram Henze

> myriads of flaws


Can't wait to see those  :Grin:

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## Rob Zamites

> Can't wait to see those


Hah, imagine my surprise when I checked on the back plate and realized I'd glued the longest brace closest to the tail block! Heated up a razor blade, did my best to get the middle and longest braces off, re-sanded the brace bases and back place, re-glued. Made for a long night, but now the back actually fits the body!

 :Laughing:   :Whistling:

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## garryireland

> Hah, imagine my surprise when I checked on the back plate and realized I'd glued the longest brace closest to the tail block! Heated up a razor blade, did my best to get the middle and longest braces off, re-sanded the brace bases and back place, re-glued. Made for a long night, but now the back actually fits the body!


Nice.  Woyld you sell?

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## Mike Anderson

> Nice.  Woyld you sell?


 :Disbelief:

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## Rob Zamites

> Nice.  Woyld you sell?


Only if you'll trade me your first-born child. Because it would be roughly the same thing.

In other words, no.

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Rob Meyer

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## Mike Anderson

> Only if you'll trade me your first-born child. Because it would be roughly the same thing.
> 
> In other words, no.


Mm-hm. Garry, you're starting to remind me of my dog when we walk in a park full of squirrels. It's actually kind of disturbing to watch. Doubt I'm alone in this.

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## Rob Zamites

Sanding, sanding, sanding:

  

  
But, I'm happy so far. The kit isn't overly difficult, and this coming from a guy with almost no woodworking experience.

 :Coffee:

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## Marty Jacobson

Looks like it's coming out great. And quickly!

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

> Looks like it's coming out great. And quickly!


To have a luthier like you complement me is an honor, Marty...

 :Smile:

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Marty Jacobson

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## Rob Zamites

Tonight's lessons included: finding out I should use a 1/4" forstner bit instead of my cheap wood bit for drilling the fingerboard for MOP dots, how to drill the crooked MOP dots and CA gel out without making the holes even worse, filling most of the holes with mahogany/Titebond goop and waiting until tomorrow to get wood putty to fill the rest of the holes. 

On the other hand, light wood colored fingerboard dots will look good against the rosewood, and the body, sides and neck are all sanded down to 150 grit. Progress, not perfection, but every lesson I learn on this is knowledge I can apply to the next build.

 :Cool:

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## garryireland

> Mm-hm. Garry, you're starting to remind me of my dog when we walk in a park full of squirrels. It's actually kind of disturbing to watch. Doubt I'm alone in this.


I meant in general, not to me.  Im not buying anything!

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## Colin Lindsay

> Only if you'll trade me your first-born child. Because it would be roughly the same thing.


Hmm I could guess which birth would be more difficult…. bringing tears to my eyes already…  :Smile:

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## Rob Zamites

> Hmm I could guess which birth would be more difficult…. bringing tears to my eyes already…


I agree! I was sobbing uncontrollably by the time I went to bed last night!

 :Laughing:

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## Rob Zamites

Filled in the rest of the fingerboard marker holes, glued down the fingerboard, sanded and sanded (and sanded and sanded and sanded), used the trim router and rounded front and back of headstock.

Cut/sanded end of fingerboards to match soundhole, then after wiping off all the freaking dust with a slightly damp cloth and letting things dry, hand sanded the whole thing with 150 grit. Will wipe down again tomorrow to raise the grain again, then another sanding with 150.

This has been a flurry of activity for me, so going to take a bit of a break until Saturday night, then will fret the board, and whatever else is next. Note to self: buy a freaking orbital sander.








See ya!  :Mandosmiley:

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## rubydubyr

loking gorgeous!

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Rob Zamites

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## NotMelloCello

Looks good so far!

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Rob Zamites

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## Bernie Daniel

> Well, the first string is still coiled up in the plastic pack it came in. Is that what you meant?


No I was thinking for some reason you had posted an earlier string on this build.   Never mind and please carry on!  :Smile:

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## Rob Zamites

Making more progress. Fretted up, bridge added. Next up, final sanding and starting the finish! These pix are after a wipe down of sanding dust with a damp washcloth:







Thanks for watching.  :Coffee:

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## rubydubyr

So, in about a week, with no prior experience and a kit, you've almost completed building an instrument...... I am impressed!

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## Mandobart

Looks great Rob!  I really enjoy watching these build threads.  You're doing great!

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## JH Murray

Did you have any special tools for installing or filing the frets?

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## garryireland

> Did you have any special tools for installing or filing the frets?


 Maybe its the camera angle but it looks like the bridge pins for your lowest course will be very close to outside of the neck.  Or is that just how i see it? It looks really good so far though Rob, fair play to you

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## Rob Zamites

> So, in about a week, with no prior experience and a kit, you've almost completed building an instrument...... I am impressed!


Thank you. I've learned a ton doing this kit. I know where I stumbled and need to improve technique for sure. It's actually been about 3 weeks since I got the kit, I took almost a full week off just to relax a bit and think over the next (and more critical) steps. 




> Looks great Rob!  I really enjoy watching these build threads.  You're doing great!


Man, you don't know how much this means to me to get this feedback from you and other cafe members. I really was afraid that I would fail miserably at this. I am really finding that woodworking/luthierie is going to be a nice pastime as I get older.




> Did you have any special tools for installing or filing the frets?


Nope, an antique ball-pein hammer (yard sale for $1) and sandpaper. Didn't glue them down, as the slots were very narrow and the frets dug in tight. Used my dremel with a cutting/sanding wheel to get the majority of the overhang cut off, then hand sanded the rest with 80 grit.

Garry, that's just the camera angle, I measured a zillion times (it seemed) to make sure that this was all going to line up! 

Good thing about these kits from Musicmakers, you can return them in any stage of completion (or unfinished/unopened) for up to a year, and they'll refund your money, or credit you.

Thanks for all the feedback - I really do appreciate it. IF I can do this, anyone can!

 :Coffee:  :Redface:

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## Rob Zamites

> Maybe its the camera angle but it looks like the bridge pins for your lowest course will be very close to outside of the neck.  Or is that just how i see it? It looks really good so far though Rob, fair play to you


Well, now I'm worrying about it....I posted at the harpkit.com forums to see what their kit maker says. In the meantime, nut was sanded to size, glued in place, and the first two coats of finish applied:

 


Remember, this is my first kit, and I'm experimenting. It might end up in the trash bin!

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## garryireland

> Well, now I'm worrying about it....I posted at the harpkit.com forums to see what their kit maker says. In the meantime, nut was sanded to size, glued in place, and the first two coats of finish applied:
> 
>  
> 
> 
> Remember, this is my first kit, and I'm experimenting. It might end up in the trash bin!


Was ths nut already cut? I tried doing this myself on my guitar conversation and made a balls of it.  Can you buy a guitar 
width nut cut to a bouzouki tuning?

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## Rob Zamites

Nut is a blank. This is really a guitar kit, so I'm not positive they compensated the neck for 8 strings. The fret board was wider (you can see how much wider by how it flares when it tops the body), and they just gave me a 8 hole drilled bridge. As soon as I'm done with the finishing and slot the not, I'll see where things line up. Like I said, this might end up in the trash bin as an ill-fated attempt to make something out of the kit that it wasn't designed to be.

Whatever, good learning experience, and it was only $400 + tools...

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## Marty Jacobson

Rob, looking good. It'll work just fine. The slots in the bridge will establish the spacing there and it doesn't matter too much what the fretboard width is. When you get to the point of slotting the saddle and nut, let's talk and I can help you figure out a good proportional spacing for the courses. It's not complicated, but it's not exactly obvious until you've done it a few times. I have a parametric SolidWorks file for setting it up for any string gauge and width values.

By the way, I got one of those Harbor Freight workbenches for my wife's leatherworking business based on your comments. It's pretty good for the price. Not a candle on a real shop built bench with vises, but those end up costing a 3-4 hundred bucks for wood, totaling a couple thousand dollars, if you count your time even at $20/hr.

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## Rob Zamites

> Rob, looking good. It'll work just fine. The slots in the bridge will establish the spacing there and it doesn't matter too much what the fretboard width is. When you get to the point of slotting the saddle and nut, let's talk and I can help you figure out a good proportional spacing for the courses. It's not complicated, but it's not exactly obvious until you've done it a few times. I have a parametric SolidWorks file for setting it up for any string gauge and width values.
> 
> By the way, I got one of those Harbor Freight workbenches for my wife's leatherworking business based on your comments. It's pretty good for the price. Not a candle on a real shop built bench with vises, but those end up costing a 3-4 hundred bucks for wood, totaling a couple thousand dollars, if you count your time even at $20/hr.


Marty, to have your assistance would be a blessing. I had found a template in the builder's forum and was going to use that, but I'd feel more comfortable having a real luthier's help! The instructions don't call for the saddle to be slotted, for some reason, but I feel that would be the trick.

Thank you again, so very much. I'd hate to have put this much work into this 'cello to only have it be a failure...

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## bratsche

It's not going to be a failure, Rob - bite your tongue before saying such things!  There's a solution for every problem, and if this is one at all, it's certainly very minor.  

I, for one, am very impressed with how you're doing so far, and how quickly you're doing it.  It took me almost this long just to do my Baby Taylor guitar to OM conversion!  And I did put slots in my saddle - I added a tailpiece on mine, but would have slotted it anyway because there was a slight bit of compensation it needed.  

That MandoBeast is going to be just terrific!  My tortie kitty Fiamma agrees, BTW, and meows "hello" to yours lurking in the background in that one photo in post #41!  =^..^=

bratsche

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## Rob Zamites

> It's not going to be a failure, Rob - bite your tongue before saying such things!  There's a solution for every problem, and if this is one at all, it's certainly very minor.  
> 
> I, for one, am very impressed with how you're doing so far, and how quickly you're doing it.  It took me almost this long just to do my Baby Taylor guitar to OM conversion!  And I did put slots in my saddle - I added a tailpiece on mine, but would have slotted it anyway because there was a slight bit of compensation it needed.  
> 
> That MandoBeast is going to be just terrific!  My tortie kitty Fiamma agrees, BTW, and meows "hello" to yours lurking in the background in that one photo in post #41!  =^..^=
> 
> bratsche


Thank you, bratsche! I am sure enjoying the process and am glad I have the resource of the fine luthiers here at the cafe! My tortie kitty, Angel, returns the hello to Fiamma!

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## Rob Zamites

Just a quick update:

Although the body was looking fantastic with the multiple coats of Watco® Teak Oil Finish, I decided I didn't like the open pores of the top. I read, and read, and read, and watched YouTube videos over and over and over, and got 1 sheet each of wet/dry 320/400/600/1200 grit sandpaper and a sanding block.

I did a wet sanding with 320 grit and the oil finish, and sure as the info said, I had a mahogany colored slurry that filled the pores nicely. Let it dry for about 35-40 minutes, and wiped the excess off (yes, lint free cloth). I'll let that cure overnight, then will proceed with further coats until it's nice and glassy.

Thanks for following!

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## derbex

keep em coming  :Popcorn:

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## rubydubyr

Rosie......... Roooooosieeeeeeeee (looking all around)

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

> Rosie......... Roooooosieeeeeeeee (looking all around)

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## Rob Zamites

double post.

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## Rob Zamites

Still have some work to do on the intonation and action, but the Mandobeast is ALIVE:



Thanks especially to my biggest fan, Mike Anderson, who cheered me on as I did this, and to the luthier extraordinare, Marty Jacobson for providing me the awesome templates for the saddle and nut spacing! 

I thought I was hooked on CBOMs, but the is NOTHING like building one  :Cool: 

Thanks everyone for following this build!

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Mandobart

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## Bernie Daniel

Looking and sounding great. You did an awesome job for sure!  That scale length is certainly in mandocello range.  The other thing I notice is the fret board is really wide.   I'll be interested to see how you find that for chords.  But like you say wonderful first effort!

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## Marty Jacobson

Right on. You sure got that set up quickly. Only four hours from when I sent the files to when you had the video posted. The audio is clipping, so it's hard to get a sense of how it sounds.

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## Rob Zamites

> Looking and sounding great. You did an awesome job for sure!  That scale length is certainly in mandocello range.  The other thing I notice is the fret board is really wide.   I'll be interested to see how you find that for chords.  But like you say wonderful first effort!


Well, I have very long fingers; the width isn't a bother at all - that video really doesn't capture the rich booming tone this thing has - it's a freaking cannon! 

 :Mandosmiley:  :Whistling:  :Laughing: 




> Right on. You sure got that set up quickly. Only four hours from when I sent the files to when you had the video posted. The audio is clipping, so it's hard to get a sense of how it sounds.


Yeah, I was sitting 2 feet from the chromebook, and the beast just overdrives the microphone; if I can fins a way to record without destroyng the mic, I'll try again!  :Redface: 

Used my new set of feeler gauges and my homemade nut saws to get the action set to a sweet 1/32" at the first fret - freaking buttery smooth - the action up at the 12th is still a little high, but I'm not freaking out at all. This was so much fun to build! As soon as the stickiness from the last coat of oil finish dries, I'll do some final sanding and light finishing and call it good. From the start I looked at #1 as a test:

a) could I build something from a kit

b) would it actually play if/when I finished it

c) would I enjoy wood butchering enough to do another

Answers:

a) yes

b) yes

c) HELL YES

I was the winning bidder on a guitar back and side set of tamarind:



I also have a custom scale length pre-slotted Macassar ebony fingerboard and a GoldTone Zer0glide nut system on the way for Zamites #2, which will be from (mostly) scratch.

I'm hooked.

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## garryireland

> Well, I have very long fingers; the width isn't a bother at all - that video really doesn't capture the rich booming tone this thing has - it's a freaking cannon! 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I was sitting 2 feet from the chromebook, and the beast just overdrives the microphone; if I can fins a way to record without destroyng the mic, I'll try again! 
> 
> Used my new set of feeler gauges and my homemade nut saws to get the action set to a sweet 1/32" at the first fret - freaking buttery smooth - the action up at the 12th is still a little high, but I'm not freaking out at all. This was so much fun to build! As soon as the stickiness from the last coat of oil finish dries, I'll do some final sanding and light finishing and call it good. From the start I looked at #1 as a test:
> ...


Amazing Rob.  Well done mate!

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Rob Zamites

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## garryireland

Was i right sbout those g course pins after? Looks a bit tight. Like you said on the video but it sounds fantastic!

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## Bertram Henze

Mighty sound, it has. I guess when you get rid of the low tension and high action, the intonation issue will go away.

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

Now doing the final body finishing. Will post pictures/video of the finished beast. On to #2!!

 :Whistling:

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## Mike Anderson

Rob, it was my pleasure entirely. I think you have a natural aptitude for this!

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Rob Zamites

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## Mandobart

Great job Rob!  Man you really took to this!  I'm inspired to one day do an actual build vs tinkering around the edges as I do.

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Rob Zamites

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## Rob Zamites

And the last pics, since the side finish is almost done:







Zamites #2 (La Balafenn) is in the works.

 :Popcorn:

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## bratsche

Pretty nice!  Congratulations!  You're right, that is a ginormous instrument, isn't it?  Didn't realize just how big until seeing the video.  Wow!

bratsche

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Rob Zamites

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## garryireland

> Pretty nice!  Congratulations!  You're right, that is a ginormous instrument, isn't it?  Didn't realize just how big until seeing the video.  Wow!
> 
> bratsche


So whats number 2 Rob? Guitar body zouk or something crazy?

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## Rob Zamites

> So whats number 2 Rob? Guitar body zouk or something crazy?




13" x 18" x 3" body, 23.5" scale length cittern.  :Whistling: 

Soundhole is not round - it will be somewhat like the shape of #1, but smaller in size.

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## Marty Jacobson

Looks cool. You'll want to practice bending on scrap to get those tight corner bends right, and don't try to bend the ribs if they're too thick. Typically guitar rib wood is supplied around .125" thick, but to get that shape to actually bend, the ribs should probably be no thicker than about .065" at the location of the cutaway points.

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## Rob Zamites

> Looks cool. You'll want to practice bending on scrap to get those tight corner bends right, and don't try to bend the ribs if they're too thick. Typically guitar rib wood is supplied around .125" thick, but to get that shape to actually bend, the ribs should probably be no thicker than about .065" at the location of the cutaway points.


Thanks Marty - I don't even have a bending rig yet  :Wink:  Maybe I'll post in the classifieds to see if anyone has a used electric one for sale - I'm somewhat leery of a metal pipe and torch method...

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## Marty Jacobson

Yeah, the fire in the hole method works just fine, but the 1500w charcoal lighter in a metal pipe is more convenient. You don't run out of propane in the middle of a job.
Silicone heating blankets are more expensive, but it makes the job really quick and easy, with the right accompanying fixtures.

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Rob Zamites

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## garryireland

> 13" x 18" x 3" body, 23.5" scale length cittern. 
> 
> Soundhole is not round - it will be somewhat like the shape of #1, but smaller in size.


You can build me a double neck after this one so!  :Mandosmiley:

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## Rob Zamites

> You can build me a double neck after this one so!


I've already spent over $100 on La Balafenn, and all I have is back/side wood, a fretboard, rosette and headstock pieces and a Zer0glide. I still need a neck/heel blank, frets, tuners, truss rod, brace wood, binding, inlay and strings! And that is BEFORE a scroll saw, random orbital sander (screw hand sanding, that was exhausting), rib bending rig and rasps and chisels!

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## rubydubyr

Ummm, are you not gonna let Rosie strut her stuff after doing the bridge work and whatever else you were gonna do to get rid of the buzzing?   :Crying:

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## garryireland

> 13" x 18" x 3" body, 23.5" scale length cittern. 
> 
> Soundhole is not round - it will be somewhat like the shape of #1, but smaller in size.


Just noticed the design is similar to Paddy Bergin Shanghai bouzouki.  Check it out.  He might be willing to help with build issues etc.

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## Rob Zamites

> Ummm, are you not gonna let Rosie strut her stuff after doing the bridge work and whatever else you were gonna do to get rid of the buzzing?


I decided I wasn't pleased with the finish, as when I was doing the sides, I got edge dripping/running on to the top and back. So, sanding back to 320 grit and refinishing (again). This is a learning experience! Patience, grasshopper! 




> Just noticed the design is similar to Paddy Bergin Shanghai bouzouki.  Check it out.  He might be willing to help with build issues etc.


I might just do that. I'm also thinking of adapting the late Leroy Beal's Method just to simplify things as far as internal structure, dunno yet.

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## Rob Zamites

Rosie's top and back were taken all the way back to 80 grit. I've progressed to starting sanding with 150 grit, then I'll do 220, 320, 400 and *then* I'll do my first extra careful coat of finish. She's taking a beating, but she comes back for more, and will be better for the experience (and so will I)!

My side/back wood for La Balafenn has arrived, as has the Zer0glide nut/fret. 

*Don't panic, rubydubyr!*

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