Hi Folks, What does this exactly mean?? Are some mandolins easier to play than others? I'm guessing that it has something to do with the setup?? Thanks in advance for taking the time. Matt
Yes.Set up is extremely important.mandolin is already tough in the beginning till u build up callouses.If it doesn't have a proper set up it can be nearly unbearable to play period.those much more knowledgeable will chime in on this I'm sure later.
Setup is one aspect of playability and a very important one at that. Too much space between the strings and the frets makes it difficult to press the strings down enough to get a clean note. But too little space means the strings will buzz against the frets. This space, usually as measured at the 12th fret, is called the "action". What is the right action? Depends on how hard to pluck the strings. You need a high action if you play loud and hard. You also need rock-hard calluses. Alternatively, you can electrify. Action is adjustable during setup, usually by adjusting the height of the bridge, the depth of the nut slots, and sometimes the tension in the truss rod. Non-adjustable features of design or construction can also affect playability. Many of these have to do with the design of the neck. How wide is the neck at the nut? How deep is the profile (distance from fretboard to back of neck)? What shape is the profile? Is the fretboard radiused or flat? How smooth or tacky feeling is the finish behind the neck? Do the frets protrude from the side of the neck? Is the neck straight? Most of these design and construction features will appeal to one person while repelling another - it's very subjective. A few would almost universally be regarded as defects, such as a twisted neck or stickyouty frets.
Hi McHull. I think Hank hit all the high points. One more thing that could be considered playability (I think) would be the sound and how it comes out of the mandolin. I haven't played a lot of mandolins, but have read here at the Cafe that there are a lot of different sounds depending on the type(s) of wood, solid or laminated, etc.
Thanks Fellas! I have an entry level mandolin, but i hope to upgrade within the next year and I want to make the best decision I can the purchase. Matt
For those non-adjustable features, is there any advice on how scale length influences playability?
Within the range of scale lengths for a standard mandolin, I don't think there is much difference in playability. If you are accustomed to playing one length and suddenly you find you have to play a different instrument with a significantly different scale, you will notice it. But I think it is more of a preference than a playability issue. I have an old bowlback with a 13" scale. I don't play it much, but when I do, I have to run through a few scales to get my fingers accustomed to the fret spacing. My other mandolins are all pretty close to 14" scale. The main playability issue I have with the bowlback is holding it steady so it doesn't turn face up.
