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Take note that this method will only work on instruments where the binding does not overlap the joint between the back and the sides. It will work on Gibson oval hole mandolins and some Gibson arch...

Regarding removing the back: I have used Randy Wood's method for back removal several times, and it's worked well for me(he uses it on mandolins, I've used it on archtop guitars). Using a very thin...

I have a flattop OM and built an ebony bridge (nonadjustable) for it so I could stagger the compensation. I found the E string to be too muted so inlaid a piece of bone in the to of the bridge for...

The new bridge will probably change the tone. The unknowable bit is whether it will be an improvement or not :grin: At the same time if you can make one, you can make a few from different materials...

D'Addario may call the J72 set "light" mandola, but by their own tension data they exert 182 lbs. of tension on a mandola, a pound more than a set of J74 [mediums] exert on a mandolin. The J72 set...

One key piece of information you left out is the scale length. I had to chime in and say something about the misinformation that’s been spread about J72’s. It’s madness to think that the same string...

Gauges that are listed as medium (or even light) for a 15.75-16.25” scale length on a tenor mandola can still be awfully heavy for the 20-23” scale on an octave mandola.

Yes, try the EJ 80 set. They are the heaviest set I would use on any octave mandolin. You might even need to go a little lighter.
The 72's are a very heavy set, and not only will they tear an OM...

I’d back off the strings. The EJ72’s are better suited for mandolas than octaves. I’d try the EJ80 set before more invasive interventions.

I think I would be more inclined to just raise the saddle if necessary, 2mm is not huge.

You're correct, an X-brace with a slight induced arch would be more structurally stable. I don't know if...

In general, you should add 1.5-2mm to the theoretical scale length to locate the front of the saddle for the string which will need the least compensation. On most guitars/ovtave mandolins/bouzoukis...

This ^^^^^exactly.

Don't look for answers in books or pretty photos or complex formulas or tapping on unicorns and fairy dust. Build your instruments in a way such that you can string them up for...

Bandolims are different in tone, usually are strung fairly light and low action. If you find one without a case good luck on finding a case that fits. Their bodies are wider than North American style...

Apologies if you already know this but, just to avoid any confusion, an “octave mandola” as they’re sometimes referred to in the UK are almost exclusively known as an “octave mandolin” in the US. (In...

No, the other way. A wound A will need to be farther from the tailpiece. The way to think about it is gauge of the core string. So, for a plain A to be at the same note, same scale length and similar...

If they work, it is because the scale is longer than a mandola, roughly 25% longer. Longer strings at a similar tension, lower notes. I would use of one the many online string tension calculators to...

A previous discussion on L & H mandolins here.....

https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/threads/29874-Lyon-and-healey-two-point-plans

If you very carefully scroll down this link (after the section on condition rating nomenclature for instruments), you will find observations by the owner's of the big vintage dealers (Gruhn, Elderly,...

Well it is higher. You really need to get an original into your hands and study it closely, there are lots of details that will have you saying oh so that is how they did it. They are challenging...

I have always made them the same as I would for a guitar. 18mm at the body end and around 15mm under the nut. Always allow al least 3mm under the truss-rod.

Cheers

https://youtu.be/NwdELWoEHiI

These days most people think of 1 1/8" (1.125") as a standard width for a mandolin nut. I suspect you would find that suitable. 1 1/8" is not really thought of as a wide nut. 1 3/16" and 1 1/4" are...

THIS!

One will never get past the superficial in classical music without knowing how to read standard notation. It is the key to the repertoire.

I am just an amateur, but I've built about a dozen OM's in the past few years. Mine have been about the same size as Peter's with the exceptions that I have used a 3" (~75mm) body depth & 22" scale...

Mine have a dovetail neck joint, neck angle is 1.5deg. The top and back have an induced arch (domed liked a guitar) of 15 inches. The bridge height I aim for is 22mm. What I do is to fit the...