Russ, Thank you very much for the descriptive "tour" and photos. You did a great job and it adds to my faith that these will work well on at least one of my mandolins with this need. Best to you!
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Russ, Thank you very much for the descriptive "tour" and photos. You did a great job and it adds to my faith that these will work well on at least one of my mandolins with this need. Best to you!
You're welcome, Life-Long!
It's been a few days now and the tuners are indeed doing a better job of holding the strings to pitch. Well worth the expense and completely reversable should I ever desire to have a "pure" A1 again.
This is an important and necessary improvement for one of the best sounding and most dependable mandolins ever made! Thanks again, Russ!
Hi Russ and All, I took a while to get back to this project. I did buy the Golden Age tuners from Stew-Mac and they fit perfectly on the best playing and sounding of the two mandolins. My 1912 is the one that had the larger bushings and had been in the Gibson shop and had a Gibson decal added presumably in the 50's? They would definitely fit my 1913 as well, but this mystery 1912 A4 paddle head matched up perfectly. The dropped right in, and even the old screw holes were in the same exact location! I can't believe how smoothly they turn and hold pitch. Compared to the old ones it is a 100% improvement in function and comparable quality to any stock tuners I have had on a US made mandolin. They are an inexpensive way ($57 plus tax) to really improve a 110 year old instrument. They look great too! The cream buttons look like the aged ones. I saved a bit and bought the bright nickel and I like the way they look. Anyway, I wanted to follow up and let you know how pleased I am with these Golden Age tuners. Dan
My 1928 A0 is need of a new set of tuners and after reading the helpful advice here I have some questions.
My plates have 5 screws and measure 2 3/4" between posts 1 and 4.
Do I have the 'old' (and the Golden Age tuners will fit)?
Or do I have the 'new' and try to source some from elsewhere?
Attachment 191348Attachment 191349
I’d suggest that you look at everything but the Golden Age “Restoration” tuners. Those are made for mandolins made before circa. 1924.
The give away is that tuners with worms over (like yours) are after the change and worm under are before.
You have the "new" and as Ray states, any tuners, EXCEPT the Restoration would work. For both my A Jr. and Kalamazoo (made by Gibson) I use these - https://www.stewmac.com/parts-and-ha...in-tuners.html
Phil, if you have any lingering doubts, go to Ace Hardware and buy their little 6" metal rule which is graduated in 64ths of an inch. It costs about $5.
Then, measure again very carefully from the very edge of the screw that holds the first tuner post to the corresponding edge of the screw that holds the last tuner post. Use a magnifying glass if necessary.
The distance will be either slightly over or slightly under 2 3/4". Chances are about 98% that it will be slightly under, in which case any set of tuners with the modern spacing will work. It is only on the outside chance that the measurement is slightly over 2 3/4" that you would need the "restoration" tuners.
The modern spacing is 2 23/32", the early spacing is 2 13/16" [or 2 26/32"]. The difference is small, but see-able if you look and measure very carefully.
If your eyes are not so good at seeing close up, or your hands aren't steady enough, find somebody to help you.
"Measure twice, cut once."
Oh yes, "Measure twice, cut once" was a favourite of my late Father who could spot 1/8" out of level at 6'. An old school 'brace and bit' master craftsman who was born a century ago this year.
Great, it was much easier to see with the aid of Dad's small Lufkin rule. Definitely modern spacing as 2 13/16" came past the post centre. What concerns me is the apparent discrepancy in base plate screw spacings between my mando and the Golden Age A-style tuners schematic. I measured 1 13/16" between each end screw to the centre screw. Will I need to drill new holes near the old ones?
I'll order them and figure it out when they arrive. I've just watched the video about plugging screw holes so I now have a head start.
+ 1 .. with measured data you can go to the Stew Mac site, they have dimensioned drawings of their offerings.. ;)
General Tool has a Stainless steel basic caliper found @ auto parts stores ..
I got a Digital read out caliper from Stew Mac, they even replaced my 1st one when the LCD screen went goofy.
If you find it necessary to plug old screw holes and drill new ones, you can plug with round toothpicks with the end cut off and a little bit of Titebond to glue them in. I leave them a little long, then protect the surface of the peghead with a piece of thick paper and nip the end off with a pair of flush-cutters. On an antique instrument, I sometimes prefer to work a piece of mahogany dowel down to size. It looks better, but it's more time-consuming.
I discourage the use of superglue [CA] for this job-- it has a nasty way of getting onto places you don't want it.
To drill new holes, a small drill bit in a pin vise is the best tool. You can wrap a piece of masking tape around the bit as a depth gauge. This is highly recommended, especially for a novice-- the last thing you want to happen is to drill all the way through the peghead.
If you don't have a pin vise and can't find one at the hardware store, you can put the bit in an unplugged electric drill or Dremel and turn the chuck by hand. If you drill electrically and you don't have plenty of experience, it is too easy to accidentally drill too deep.
I agree about the use of superglue; not a good idea unless you're willing to rush a job because the glue sets so quickly. Yes, the piece of masking tape wrapped around the drill bit is something I've used for years (the little flag is easy to see when it approaches the top surface). I have an 'Ozito' Dremel type tool but will probably call on my jeweller friend who has lots of interesting machines for fine working.
I didn't realise just how bad these tuners were until I got them under the magnifier and saw the concave teeth on all of the cogs. The old pick guard might get reinstalled at the same time if I can scratch up some hide glue for the new nail (at the 15th fret) and the bracket's (wood block to guard) join. Then I can protect the top plate repair.
Hi Pops!-- Sorry to be so slow! I am doing well enough. I remember you as a friend of my cousin, the late Don Young. Miss that guy! Well, Pops the Pava Pro has worked out really well. It is so true, in everyway. Tuning stability, low action, great tone and intonation. Pava knows what she is doing with Mr. Ellis as a partner. They're making some great instruments.
Nice to hear Dan, I keep thinking about a Pava, but I already have too many mandolins. Oops is that even a possibility?
Pops1, I do think there is the right number for each player, which is very subjective:mandosmiley: and open to interpretation. I never seem to get mandolins out of my system, either. I am so pleased with the quality of the Pava in every way, which is saying a lot. I will be eager to hear what you decide. Dan
Dan, My most played are a Unicorn that I like a lot and my Brentrup which is my main gigging mandolin, and an incredible sound. Every time I get a case of MAS all I have to do is play the Brentrup and it goes away pretty fast. I really should be selling some and not buying, just never seem to get around to it. ha ha
Dan, I played a Pave at a jam before all the craziness and liked it a lot, I can see why you like yours.