Hey. I recently acquired a Sawchyn Beavertail. I have light strings (.38-.10) on now with pretty low action. I would like to move up to a medium set (.40-.11). Any thoughts about that?
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Hey. I recently acquired a Sawchyn Beavertail. I have light strings (.38-.10) on now with pretty low action. I would like to move up to a medium set (.40-.11). Any thoughts about that?
I like 80/20 bronze strings on oval hole mandolins. I used to run EXP77s (.11-.40) on my Parsons flat top. Despite it having massive X-braces, I did get a partial brace separation at one point after many years. After I got that re-glued, I switched to EJ62s (.10-.34). I think they are more playable, have better tone and volume. Heavier is not always better.
If the question is will the Beavertail handle the heavier strings, you should ask Sawchyn. As far as whether you like them better, try them and see. But I doubt they will sound better. But that is ultimately up to your ear.
Yep, ask Sawchyn. It really depends on how they are built. The old Gibson army navy's are notorious for top sinkage so light strings only, but the Beavertail is X braced so is different. Mine are light strings only. They may take medium for a while, but long term is risky.
Pretty trivial differences between .40/.38, .10/.11. It’s a modern build by an experienced luthier. Personally I’d just try it. YMMV.
J74s have 180.7 lbs of tension
J73s have 155.8 lbs of tension
My Waterloo mandolin was built for J74s. I’m having another flattop built at the moment and specifically requested it be built for medium strings. I’d touch base with Sawchyn and see what he says.
I've been very satisfied with the the volume, tone and playability of my flat-top Weber Aspen mandolin set up with light gauge .010 > .038 (per luthier recommendation). I use medium gauge .011 > .040 on my arch-top mandolins.. On my flat-top Flatiron 2M mandola I use use medium gauge octave mandolin strings (.012 > .046) which equate to a light set for a flat-top mandola when tuned CGDA. Conversely, I found my 90s flat-top Trinity College octave mandolin sounds and feels best with light gauge mandola strings (.014 > .049).
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2020 Eastman MD314 F style oval hole arch-top mandolin
2013 (?) Eastman MD305 A style arch-top mandolin
2010 (?) Custom Weber Aspen flat-top mandolin (Circular sound hole w/ Snakehead headstock)
1995 (?) Trinity College 325 flat-top octave mandolin
1983 (?) Flatiron 2M flat-top mandola
1982 Madeira M-10 arch-top mandolin
2013 Honda CRV - LOL
Year & make (?) Greek bouzouki
Here is a thread that might help:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...-light-strings
My Flat top is a Hodson D'jangolin, never felt a desire to put on thicker strings.
like this: http://www.emando.com/builders_inactive/Hodson.htm
Well I for one am intrigued . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by sgarrity
Lawrence Nyberg is building be a "Celtic" flattop. 11.5" wide and 2.75" deep, flamed claro walnut with a cedar top. Definitely different from the rest of the stable. Looking forward to watching it come together.Quote:
Originally Posted by pheffernan
I bought a Beavertail directly from Peter Sawchyn in June and it came with GHS A260 medium/light 11-16-24-38. I asked him if I were to go to mediums would I need to do anything and he said maybe a slight tweak to the truss rod. I've been happy with these strings so that's what I'll keep on them.
Rob
On all my Army Navy / pancake mandolins (JBouvier, Flatiron, Cripple Creek), I use GHS A240 Ultra Light strings (.009 .013 .020 .032). I play the full fretboard.
Interestingly, on all my mandolas (four Flatirons and a few others), I use almost the same string gauges (.011 .015 .024 .038) for CGDA tuning at the longer mandola scale length. After the initial low action set-up, it makes full chords and chord melody playing attainable all the way up even above the 12th fret.Quote:
Originally Posted by robw95
DittoQuote:
Originally Posted by robw95
I used to have a Flatiron 1N. From what I read about that particular instrument, it was made for light strings, so I used the GHS light strings on it. Fast forward to now when I am in the process of my first build, using plans From Terry at Crystal Forrest mandolins to build a pancake mando of the same likeness and I am building it to use light strings... and by that, all I mean is that all the nut slots are cut to fit the sizing listed on the GHS package, I'm not sure how well or how NOT well the structure would handle medium gauge strings as that is outside of my knowledge base.
Attachment 188539
It is a lovely Torrified Sitka over Mahogany. I am currently just finished with filling the grain with an epoxy filler (PITA) and will be applying the finish in the coming days. I played it in the white and it sounded quite nice!
My flat tops, mandolin & mandolas alike (incl. Sawchyn) are all strung with Thomastiks; but what else is new? They should pay me for all my endorsements on here. :))
bratsche