Thanks for this post. You could not ask for a better teacher, I have learned a lot just from his posts on this forum.
Type: Posts; User: Bob Schmidt
Thanks for this post. You could not ask for a better teacher, I have learned a lot just from his posts on this forum.
Thanks and as always I learned a couple of new tricks here which I will try to incorperate into my building. The responses are much appreciated.
I am curious about whether to install the frets into the fret board before or after it is glued to the neck. I can think of arguments for both.
Fretting before avoids having to press frets over the...
Very nice Graham, I do like those fret markers.
I am using solid strings for the A coarse on my GOM's. I tried the wound A's but they break too often. I suspect they are really G strings being over-tensioned.
I am using either .017 or .018 steel...
Thanks Ward,
That is good to know. Do you lay the rods flat as Marty suggested?
I can see that it would not work for a 2 way rod, at least in the reverse direction.
I would only add make sure you have the room to keep all of the instruments you build as you fall down the rabbit hole. I have started numbers 6 and 7 and none of them have left home yet. The joy is...
I guess too much of a good thing is not always a good thing. My thought was to add some stiffness with lighter rods without overriding the truss rod. In keeping with what Marty pointed out about the...
I know this has been an either/or discussion in the past. However, I have been thinking of using small CF rods on each side of the truss rod to reinforce the area between the neck and head stock, and...
Also check to see if it is slightly tilted by moving it causing the different fit.
The width is 80mm. reinforcement strips sound like a good idea.
Thanks
I don't have a thickness sander so I have been using a safety planer in my drill press to take the sides down to a close dimension before finishing them up. This is an inprecise approach, but I was...
I am not sure if Jascar solved their supply problem or are still working off of old stock, but I just ordered some pieces of 3753 and 4080 EVO gold from them wit no issues or indications tht there is...
I am not familiar with these instruments, but that gittern has a powerful sound, and the craftmanship is extrodinary.
yes, thank you.
I was recently looking at a thread that discussed several different methods of "tuning" the mandolin. It included many of the builders on the forum, but I have not been able to find it again. Can...
Best of luck with the build. You have a great mentor.
John, thanks for this insight. I have seen this issue in the couple of instruments I have built and was not aware the cause. It makes sense and I will consider it going forward.
Thanks everyone for the helpful input. I have some maple left over from a butcher block I built many years ago. It is fairly straight grained and hard as a rock. It sounds like it is a good candidate.
Thanks Tavy, for the grain orientation in the plate itself, is it better to be quarter sawn (perpendicular to the top facing into the body) or flat sawn (running parallel with the top). I can think...
This is my first attempt at a flat top pin bridge OM and I am wondering what would be the best wood for a bridge plate , and what is the best grain orientation.
My Martin D35 comes to mind with its 3 piece back. I took a look at it and the pieces are cut on an angle so not strait with the grain. One could argue it is not a top so it does not have the same...
THanks for the video. That is much more on the order of what I could use. Food for thought.
Pops1
The last time I looked into HVLP they were too pricey, but taking another look, I see Rockler has one pretty reasonable so it is worth considering.
John,
That is a pretty elaborate setup and a far cry from spraying in the back yard as I currently do. I get why you did that. It not only keeps overspray out of the shop, but also keeps shop dust...