Sorry, of course that would be 4-piece.
Type: Posts; User: chilos
Sorry, of course that would be 4-piece.
Thanks for that. Got me thinking, though maybe something more matched to my skillset might be a 6mm full length splice, making a 3-piece top.
So I'm carving a top when I hit this. It's way off the area where I could cut it out as part of the f-hole, and it's a good 2-3mm deeper than the surrounding area will finish at. Any ideas? Is it...
Hi Adrian, yes, that was the process. I pore-filled with shellac and pumice but had a small ripple in each side that needed something thicker and was too deep to sand out. Bit of a bodge, I know, but...
Thanks John. I'll give it a go. Humidity a bit of an issue here right now (Scotland), but looks like it might be dry enough for spraying later in the week.
Hi all, hoping someone can help with my witness lines woe. Prepping for a nitro (rattle can) spray, I've used a shellac with pumice powder and then some Z-poxy. Consequently I've ended up with...
'Stiff', not stuff. Though I guess it's quite nice stuff, too.
Thanks, that's reassuring. It is a nice stuff piece of Sitka. All went ok in the end. Just need a tiny bit of refinement inside and final pre-finish sanding outside, so all looking good.
Ok, slightly different approach. Let's see how this pans out.
191354
Thanks for the advice, guys. Leather pad and a wider dowel seems the way to go. Don't want to have to sand anything out as the arch is already at 15.3mm, so not much wiggle room for losing material...
HI, I'm just working on my first carved top instrument, using the MacDonald book. I've done the outside, and am pretty happy with that, and I've just rigged up a dowel jig so I can drill the top out...
A bit of marquetry - that's a brilliant idea, thanks. Like you, I don't do this for a living, so can afford to spend a bit more time than is commercially sensible doing stuff I enjoy - inlay in...
Doing my first carved top and I hit this knot. It goes all the way through from the side to the centre. Is there any way of salvaging it or is this firewood?
185655185656
After using wipe-on and brush-on finishes for a while, I'd like to move on to spraying my instruments but don't really know what equipment I need to start out. Can anyone recommend me any ideas on...
Ivan - thanks for that. Will follow your suggestion.
Dusepo - Touchstone lists viola wedges, but does not specify size.
Hi, can anyone point me towards a UK supplier of spruce wedges for a carve top mando? No one I can find lists them online. Will viola-size wedges fit the bill?
- - - Updated - - -
Sorry, 'sank and went convex' - meant concave, of course.
Sounds like a humidity issue to me. The first instrument I made - a concert uke last year - did exactly the same thing. Top started out with a nice radius as designed, then over a few weeks sank and...
Ok, I know where I went wrong - back when I sanded the rim on my radius dish. But still wondering what is the best way to go. Given that the guy I'm making it for would prefer a floating bridge...
Thanks Oliver - that's just what I thought. This is only my second instrument, and I'm finding out the hard way that things I did at the start are having a big effect on other things I'm trying to do...
Following on from my earlier thread http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/showthread.php?129742-Floating-bridge-on-fixed-bridge-body I'm again appealing for help from the very knowledgable experts on...
Cheers Graham. I was starting to lean that way, and I don't think he'll take much convincing. I think he may be a little worried about my ability to set the saddle at the right distance (and I admit...
Thanks for that Stephen - I'm not sure I understand all of what you say, but will work at it and try to get to grips with the topics you raise. I'm still at the stage of copying designs from other...
I've already closed up the soundbox, so making changes to the bracing would be a bit tricky. I was wondering about it being a bit overbraced - the top is 2.8mm or so in the centre, down to about...
Thanks John. I've been following the instructions in Graham's Bouzouki Book, which say taper the X-braces down to nothing where they meet the linigs and all the other braces down to nothing at 35mm...