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Type: Posts; User: HoGo

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  1. Replies
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    Re: Converting left hander to right

    I'd just swap the bridge saddle and nut. Some folks care too much about internal asymmetry of tonebars but several eperiments have shown that it doesn't make much difference. I've seen converted...
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    Re: Where are the ' Big guys ' ?

    Knowledge, methods and opinions of makers evolve over years so some repetition often brings out new interesting things...
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    Re: Kelley A-V-5 advice needed

    I don't understand reasoning of the luthier. The dowels are not really there to maintain integrity of the joint. They lock the joint just in direction of leverage caused by string tension. Think of...
  4. Thread: Tone bar question

    by HoGo
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    Re: Tone bar question

    Yes, I understood that. But they had already made a piles of oval hole models and could transfer much of the experience to the new model where they only had to figure out the tops - the backs and...
  5. Thread: Recurve too thin?

    by HoGo
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    688

    Re: Recurve too thin?

    If you are going to reinforce teh area I would suggest against flat patch which is hard to fit properly for beginner and requires plaster cast and way to press it in place evenly. If your top is...
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    Re: Kelley A-V-5 advice needed

    Many things could have happened before or during transit.... from just heavy vibration to dropped box or rapid changes in humidity/temperature, but the neck joint could have been slightly loose...
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    Re: Neck Block Materials

    I forgot to mention that when I used laminated blocks I glued them with same grain direction (if the neck joint splits when mandolin falls it is easier to glue back together) and used strong epoxy so...
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    Re: Neck Block Materials

    What issue? It is pretty large block of clear seasoned wood. I haven't seen any good quality block with staibility problems. There's no real reason to laminate the blocks. I used two-layer blocks on...
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    Re: Fitting a backstrap overlay

    Hve you seen Frank Ford's frets.com? I believe he has some nice articles about backstraps.
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    Re: Drilling out the top

    I would check sharpness of the drill bit. STandard twist drill bit requires some pressure to cut. I also use smaller bit (4.5mm) for pre-drilling and sharpen it to more accute angle for wood (both...
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    Re: Neck Block Materials

    Basswood (at least european) can be too soft nad easy to split, but willow or aspen could be OK. I've used european walnut for most my mandolins (mahogany doesn't grow here) and on one I used maple....
  12. Thread: Tone bar question

    by HoGo
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    Re: Tone bar question

    They made thousands and thousands of mandolins they had SOME experience It's the F-5 model of which they built less... But they built mandolas and guitars style 5 as well...
    One more thought about...
  13. Thread: Tone bar question

    by HoGo
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    Re: Tone bar question

    I don't know much about others but Loars have lower (and shorter) bass side bar. Width of bars is basically same approx. 1/4". It almost looks like they trimmed the bars flush with plate underside...
  14. Thread: Recurve too thin?

    by HoGo
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    688

    Re: Recurve too thin?

    0.009" is almost paper thin, I guess you meant 0.09"... That's around 2.3mm and IMO close to dangerous zone. I wouldn't go under 2.5 mm unless the piece of spruce is extremely stiff. But if you left...
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    Re: Tone-Gard Alternative

    Nice one. I've seen similar by E.Kristufek (Czech maker) but he used bent stave and for simplicity just two woodscrews into mandolin. I know that mandolin was experimental one so he just included the...
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    Re: Truss Rods vs Carbon Fiber?

    From the little I know, the threads should be designed so the nut held by certain number of threads (I guess the common size of nut is dictated by this) will be as strong as the rod which they are...
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    Re: Truss Rods vs Carbon Fiber?

    There is definitely some movement in traditional building techniques of violin making especially in cello and bass areas where necks are very suspectible and reinforcement of some kind has already...
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    Re: Truss Rods vs Carbon Fiber?

    I've been using simple adjustable rods from my first build and don't think I'm going to change that. I still have my first mandolin and never needed to touch the truss rod. But if the time comes I...
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    Re: Mike Marshall's Loar?

    Like most of the best players the sound is in his hands and whatever mandolin he plays (and even mandola or m-cello), his didstinctive attack and tone wins over the instrument.
    His Loar has been...
  20. Re: Tips for bending/fitting the F5 bottom point rib piece?

    I do like John and usually bend the very end of the longest rib a bit more curved so the offcut will fit the point block.
    But I glue the rib piece to the block before assembly. Then I trim the rib...
  21. Re: Non-mandolin question: Archtop, violin building references

    You can find lots of useful info on maestronet forum (the builders section is called pegbox). Very informative and some very top luthiers contributing but for new guy it may seem a bit uncivilised at...
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    Re: Catalyzed Varnish Repair

    Agree with Greg.
    You may want to steam the dent before filling. Have a look at frets.com on repairing dings. Frank mostly fills with thickened nitro but on many catalyzed finishes thin CA is the way...
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    Re: Bridge post sources

    The posts are standard hardware store item. Search for allen socket set screw 5-40 thread. You will probably have problem fingd them in small emough quantity from online vendors. Perhaps some better...
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    Re: Top and back graduations

    I will try to find out what's going on with the files. I'm not at my computer now and I can only access the server via simple FTP and and I don't remember the port settings etc. The server had some...
  25. Thread: Slotting a nut

    by HoGo
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    Re: Slotting a nut

    My slots change direction both when viewed from front and side. The curved surface allows for that tiny amount of change. On mandolins it is really not much and most folks would not notice at all,...
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