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It will, if purchase used. It has been my observation that initial depreciation of flattops is greater than archtops, but then it stabilizes. And there have been some drivers, such as the Northfield...

My Newton tenor is a Size 2 which has always struck me as a good compromise.

Michael’s video and description of the 000 body made me wonder: is there an optimal (or suboptimal) body size for a flattop acoustic tenor?

Some eras are better than others, but the brand always sounds good. My fifth mandolin was a Gibson oval from the Lloyd Loar era and did, in fact, cost as much as the previous four mandolins combined!

The name “Gibson” on the peghead always sounds good! :mandosmiley:

The TF140 is my favorite pick. I like the tone and love the rock solid stability in my hand. Some might produce a better tone (Red Bear) or last forever (Blue Chip), but if I had to pick one, the...

Maybe you could work out a trade with Dennis on your MTO: https://themandolinstore.com/product/used-pava-satin-model-a-4-mandolin-amber-torrefied/

Besides starting a thread like this one, perhaps you could post a WTB ad in the classifieds with any distinguishing marks or characteristics?

I put them on used mandolins (like my Gibson) that already have wear there from a previous picker’s right forearm. I haven’t worked up the courage to install one on a custom order or an instrument...

Those Fletchers don’t seem to turn up used very often, and Jamie’s prices appear (deservedly) to have risen:

http://fletcherinstruments.com/specifications.html

So if I could only play worse for four months...

I’ve always wanted to try a Fletcher to see how well the 21” scale could support a low G. It looks great.

The Cafe turns up an easy way to find her: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/members/8571-Gail-Hester

Gail builds incredible mandolins, but few of them and at her own pace. I was lucky to stumble...

The MM-8 was the Mid-Missouri’s least expensive mandolin as far as I know, their travel instrument. The modern equivalent from Big Muddy goes for $440 new, so you might hope for something in the...

I’m aware. From what I’ve read, Mike seems to enjoy experimenting, both with his Loar (removing the Virzi, tinkering with the nut, modifying the bridge, etc.) and beyond it (he had a longer scale...

Did he “replace” his Loar or add a Northfield to his stable of instruments for any number of reasons?

How many of those mandolins (and makers) were around in 1979? We are spoiled now with the range of quality instruments and talented builders available, but back in the day, you had to get lucky to...

So you have access to Dr. Dave Cohen, one of the leading experts on the physics and mechanics of musical instruments, and you're asking me for my opinion on sound hole selection? Discernment indeed ....

I had a buddy named Carl who used to buy and sell lots of cool mandolins. When asked for his advice on which singular one to purchase, he was known to recommend the A5 as a general rule. He argued...

Buy the best mandolin that you can afford, ideally used and appropriately depreciated. Learn what you can from it with full recognition that your next mandolin is unlikely to be your last mandolin....

I’ve played enough mandolins at this point to know that I can make a lot of variables work. I’m seemingly unbothered by neck depth, but I am sensitive to the profile. I feel obstructed by a lot of...

I’d wait on the pickup and shop for an independently built A5 of solid woods from a reputable luthier:

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/164469#164469

Eastman MD-315

According to the Sawchyn website, a new A2 would be $3895 (I’m going to assume CDN)

https://www.sawchyn.com/index.php/pricing

Standard depreciation (~70%) of that figure converted to USD would...

In order of least invasive first:

1) Technique — if you position your pick to attack at an angle, instead of straight through the strings, you will generally pull a richer tone. The same for...