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Type: Posts; User: Richard500

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    Re: Tone bar question

    Ok guys, I was thinking violin when I assumed position was important. In a violin, the bass bar has to be about where it is usually found, under the bass foot of the bridge, and is angled slightly...
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    Re: Machine tuning - bushings don't fit

    So the OP missed that suggestion, no big deal. As an ex-Fellow at what was the National Bureau of Standards, I often think the cultural inability of Americans to either understand measurement or...
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    Re: Tone bar question

    Bernie, tone bars are beams. They span a space and support pressure from one direction (top pushing down). So, if you want, or there was some acoustical reason other than stiffness, you can make...
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    Re: How to achieve a "warmer" sound?

    Never have even held a F-x one, let alone a great one, and also don’t build instruments, and yes, my occupation was doing physics, but have a small collection of things with 8 metal strings. The...
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    Re: What tools do I need ?

    Good reference, Mike.
    Also, something that finish carpenters might not have, but is useful, is a dial or digital 6” caliper. Here in my exile from the shop, I’m reminded daily about calipers but...
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    Re: What tools do I need ?

    Small pieces are often easier to deal with if they’re still attached to a larger piece, since they can be difficult to hold otherwise. With something like a bridge, where you may want an accurate...
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    Re: Flattop Top Thickness?

    Density is a factor, but stiffness, elastic modulus and damping are also involved. That is, you can have a very light material that’s strong enough, but also damps vibration, etc. The two jobs of...
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    Re: Truss Rods vs Carbon Fiber?

    Gotta be careful about ‘lost energy’. Just because some element is oscillating doesn’t mean it’s absorbing energy. It can be altering the sound spectrum or volume just by changing the dynamics...
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    Re: Tone-Gard Alternative

    Nice job, Spencer. For those who are of the standing, strap-using crowd, what about going fore and aft from the two strap attachment points, if there’s a second one on the neck heel, instead, and...
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    Re: Machine tuning - bushings don't fit

    I’m guessing that you are in luck - that the previous owner didn’t know about the original spacing and just put on the wrong (later) on; a mistake that could have been decades ago.
    So, to measure...
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    Re: Looking for a bridge

    And, the 12th fret divides the distance from the zero fret to the leading edge of the bridge, not from the nut. On some instruments the two aren’t terribly close together.
    And... unless you are ...
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    Re: Looking for a bridge

    As above, lower equals more buzz if it’s a matter of buzz at the frets, but looking at the photo, the top of that bridge looks very suspiciously flat. If the strings don’t fairly sharply contact...
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    Re: Tru-oil for finish

    Just guessing here, but shellac isn’t water or alcohol resistant, and possibly gunstocks should be.
    About FP - yes, it can get kind of neurotic after a few dozen coats, each one looking a little...
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    Re: Truss Rods vs Carbon Fiber?

    Adrian, yes, hardware is sometimes engineered, but not this stuff, at least not in relation to an application like this, so by using a soft, or thin nut you’re essentially doing adequate engineering....
  15. Re: Really interesting A-style on ShopGoodwill

    @John, I’m sure your comment is a sneer, but Bondo and similar polyesters make a very good wood repair material; low shrinkage, high strength, good adhesion, takes finish. I’m looking at a theremin...
  16. Re: Mandolins with violin-style construction are nothing new...

    Handsome instrument! Interesting bridge which looks like it allows the bone piece to not have slots for location. Except for the width, this thing could have been bowed, and maybe sound good, but...
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    Re: Truss Rods vs Carbon Fiber?

    On the second question; one rail or two, if the function is keeping the neck from bending up, not sideways, two pieces is just as good as one.
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    Re: Inexpensive solid body electrics

    Quick search shows Cozart to be an established importer of Asian electric instruments who’s in MS. Lots of encouraging reviews for their guitars, which don’t seem to be advertised directly by that...
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    Re: Preferred wire cutters?

    Can someone explain the subculture of players who leave all the excess strings sticking out like a wire halo? Are they also generally hirsute, untrimmed of toenails, or is it some deep psychological...
  20. Re: Older Barnes & Mullins Flatback - missing tuner key

    True, Jim, but on these all the posts use the cover plate for bearing and location, so everything can become loose. Just like taking the big plate off a clock, and our friend might not want a...
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    Re: "The Loar" by Weber?

    I’m hardware-oriented: bet those Phillips head screws weren’t there in Loar’s day, or (translucent plastic?) buttons. So, if it doesn’t sound like the original, and mostly looks like many current...
  22. Re: Older Barnes & Mullins Flatback - a couple of cracks / splits

    Don’t give up! It’s just a piece of wood, and you bought it to play. Forgetting the objective is really common in the auto restoration hobby, and it’s insidious. Buy it to drive, start restoring...
  23. Re: Fixing wire loops onto Nylon (fluorocarbon?) strings.

    Pete, you could make tiny crimps from the kind of small tubing available from modelmaking supplies as well as regular materials suppliers. Also, nylon melts easily and a touch with a soldering iron...
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    Re: Shim for Bridge Insert.

    Ed, Pirsig’s gone, the bike is in the Smithsonian, and we’re shimming mandolins and trying to define quality. The time is past, I think, for Zen and the Art of Mandolin Repair to redefine formal...
  25. Re: Older Barnes & Mullins Flatback - missing tuner key

    See, people know stuff! Here’s one way to avoid messing with the shaft end, which is pretty much keeping the appearance intact. Buy several plastic buttons with, if possible the same square hole...
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