Installing Frets in FB Over Soundboard and "Florida" FB Extension

[Andy Morton]

Hi All,
I am once again posting a question to the builders on the forum---very grateful for folks taking time to help me progress in my building journey!!!

I am refretting a teens F2 that has been extensively "remodeled" over its life. The frets were pretty much shot. This mandolin is owned by a friend who inherited it from his grandfather and wants mainly to improve playability. Structurally the mandolin is in fine shape with great tone. It has a colorful history, as its owner was touring musician in the 1930-40s that played in several country bands (pre-bluegrass).

Along the way, major modifications had been done--the headstock had inlay installed similar to an F4 style inlay, a carbon fiber truss rod was installed in the neck, the fretboard had been inlayed with floral designs in.place of the dots, and the tuners had been replaced (with new tuning holes drilled). The finish is flaking in many spots and there are large, open cracks in the normal spots for F2/4s that were cleated (seem to be stable).

Do you have any tips on installing the upper frets over where the FB is attached to the top and the FB extends over the soundhole. I have researched this quite a bit--including analyzing the techniques used for guitar, Frank Ford's site, YouTubes (Stewmac, etc). Does anyone use some sort of "Fret Buck?" similar to what is used for guitars. For example, does anyone rely on small clamps with trimmed barbs on the tang and superglue in the slot? Just a few of my thoughts

I pulled the frets, leveled the fretboard, and repaired any chips--fretboard is in fine shape now. Installed lower frets with using a fret hammer already (EVO 37053--per the owners request)--but want to be very careful when installing the upper frets. I am nervous using a hammer with these upper frets given the repairs (cleated top, rattling lose a brace etc).

This is an interesting project--any suggestions would be appreciated.

Andy Morton
Madison, WI

[rcc56]

I widen the slots slightly, and if necessary file down the barbs on the tang. I also knock the sharp corner off the back of the tang with a file [see fretting techniques at www.frets.com]. I have found knocking that edge off to be well worth the trouble-- it makes it much easier to drive frets, especially in those critical areas.

Sometimes I press them in with a clamp. If you get the slots and the tang right, you can use a hardwood block on top of the frets and an inside caul. You may be able to press several in at once with the right set-up.

If I hammer, I use a block of wood to support the extension while I hammer. For the area where the fingerboard is over the top, I use a radiused block. The radius does not need to be accurate, just enough to absorb the energy from the hammer blows.

I do not normally use CA for frets, except when I'm re-seating a loose fret end on existing frets that have "sprung."
I use Titebond liquid hide glue for re-fret work.

In your particular situation, where you are dealing with an instrument where you are worried about compromising the integrity of the top, I would try knocking most of the barbs off and pressing the frets in, at least for an initial seat. You will want them to just lightly grab. It may take some trial and error to get everything sized right. If you can't get them to seat all the way, you can chase them carefully with the hammer.

To widen fret slots, I use a Dremel with a small burr in a modified router base. You can make one by removing the base plate from a Dremel router base and replacing it with a homemade base plate of appropriate size. I made my base plate out of plexiglass. Or you can buy Stewmac's precision router base or the equivalent.

Don Teeter's book "The Acoustic Guitar" has instructions for one way to modify a Dremel router base.