Slightly irked by my OM choices

[Lord of the Badgers]

Hello good folks
Am in a quandary. I have both a Buchanan Bouzouki and a Fylde Octave Mandola (I'm using the luthier's description... )

To be honest, I've really not gotten on with the Fylde. Personal choice but I find the neck tough to get on with, plus the acoustic sound despite much playing sounds a bit .... well... meh.

I put medium set of phosphor bronzes on it, but I still don't find it playable. I do like the shallower body for live work (which made me think of going the whole hog with one of Paul Hathway's solid body OMs cause I saw Adrian Edmondson playing one)

The Buchanan feels a whole lot better but I didn't get on with his shorter scale version when I tried it.

I think basically I'm looking for a less wide nut width, a slightly different profile neck and around 520mm scale. This I realised from handling my tutor's OM which is ironically the same make as my current mandolin & future one in build at the moment - Phil Davidson.

But in this case, I'm going to have to fund it as much as possible without plundering my savings anymore... so a new build carved top (a la my tutor's) isn't on.

oh and i prefer to octave string it...

Any thoughts team?
Your experiences please.

[Jacob]

I have a vintage Fylde octave mandola.
The builder's recommended string set for unison GDAE tuning:
.052w .036w .024w .013p
I prefer the sound of bright bronze over phosphor bronze on it.
In lieu of a Tone-Gard, I use a strap to make sure the back of the instrument isn't in contact with my body.

[Bertram Henze]

My Fylde Touchstone octave is a constant source of joy. How so? .052w .036w .026w .015p is near enough to recommended gauges, but I have a custom 2-footed bridge made by a local luthier, which gives it more punch (which may not be in line with Roger Bucknall's philosophy - he says he's not building drums).
There is the wide fretboard, yes, and after some time of getting used to it I can't understand how others get along with less room to move - I love it.
Plus: it has a zero fret. Ill-cut nut slots no never no more. It just works.

But I am a unison guy. Octave pairs may be a different game altogether, and , IMHO, a losing one. I'd expect all sorts of trouble with that on a scale length as short as 21". Goodbye intonation. And the quality of sound rises and falls with good intonation on this machine.

[Lord of the Badgers]

Er...
Guys... I'm actually saying I just don't like the Fylde's neck and sound, great if you do, but I don't get on with it, especially stood up playing as I do in gigs. I had the heavier set on it, but I really didn't get on with them at all. The Davidson my teacher has is better in almost all respects to my taste.

To be precise (my error) the Buchanan Zouk is in Octave tuning - the Fylde is unison. Should've tempered that statement.

[Denman John]

Sounds pretty simple to me. Let the Flyde go and use the money to get a new Davidson. You definitely like his instruments from experience, so why not? You know what scale length works for you, along with neck width and profile. It could take a long time searching to find exactly what you want, or you could have one built to your specs. Where I live, OMs are as rare as hen's teeth, so trying out different ones is a rare treat.

Good luck

[allenhopkins]

You want a short scale length, similar to the Trinity College OM's. Even the Gold Tone instruments are over 550 mm. Mandolin Store stocks US-made Lafferty OM's with a 21 inch (533 mm) scale (link), but they're about £800 not considering the shipping etc.

I have a Sobell with the kind of scale you're seeking, though I have it strung CGDA as a mandola. It could take octave stringing, for sure, but again, pricey!!

You'd be bumping down significantly, quality-wise, to go with an Asian import like the Trinity College, IMHO -- though nothing against 'em, good value for the money! Octave shopping is a bummer, often, because there aren't a lot of them around; hard to compare when you can't find a shop that has more than one.

Random thought: you're working with a luthier already, Phil Davidson. Don't know him or his work, but -- would he be interested in doing some neck reshaping on the Fylde? Reworked, would it hold you until you had the bread to get him to build you one to your specs? Perhaps the sound still wouldn't suit you, but it'll be difficult to find an instrument more suitable than the Fylde that's also affordable.

Or, what would be the net cost of an octave built to your specs, with the Fylde as trade-in?

[zoukboy]

Badger:

If I understand correctly you have need of both a long scale bouzouki and a shorter scale instrument in octave mando-la/-lin tuning? I don't know what you are playing on the O.M. but you can get most of the O.M. tuning on your bouzouki by capoing to the 7th fret for DAEA. I do this frequently when I need O.M. tuning but don't have one handy. It's not much use for tunes in G, though.

BTW, the only reason octave bass pairs don't play in tune is if the instrument is not set up properly for it. The bridge saddle has to be compensated to allow for the difference in thickness between the two strings in each pair:

[Bertram Henze]

Er...
Guys... I'm actually saying I just don't like the Fylde's neck and sound...

That's what happens when you post a problem: you'll get fired at with solutions. We'll find out what's wrong, and nothing can stop us

[paganskins]

If you're looking to have an OM built in the UK Nava may be of interest

[RBMB]

Have you had a good luthier look over the Flyde? I've had lots of luck with changes to setup, neck work, bridge replacement and/or repair, etc., working with Dana Sutcliffe.

[Beanzy]

It may be worth a look at Oakwood if you can flog the Flyde. I'll be trying one of their mandoloncellos with our orchestra for a while from March and may have a go at the Octave too. If I remember I'll update on here once I have an opinion to share.
Alternatively as you can't afford a Phil Davidson commissioned one maybe get the Flyde re-worked to fit what you want from it?.
Carbon rods in and neck slimmed down?. Top-thinned down / bracing altered etc?

[Beanzy]

Just saw this on JAT site. Might be worth a play to see if it hits your mark a bit better.

[Lord of the Badgers]

Badger:

If I understand correctly you have need of both a long scale bouzouki and a shorter scale instrument in octave mando-la/-lin tuning? I don't know what you are playing on the O.M. but you can get most of the O.M. tuning on your bouzouki by capoing to the 7th fret for DAEA. I do this frequently when I need O.M. tuning but don't have one handy. It's not much use for tunes in G, though.

BTW, the only reason octave bass pairs don't play in tune is if the instrument is not set up properly for it. The bridge saddle has to be compensated to allow for the difference in thickness between the two strings in each pair:

Yeah, ignoring the inevitable MAS you're right. My zouk is compensated by the way - well aware of the problems! But then.. I tend to do that thing of playing the unison pairs slightly sharp from each other..

[Lord of the Badgers]

Oh. seem to have lost a post. well anyways, gonna have a think. cheers all. I'm terrified I'll walk away with another commission done.

ps the A style mando is still under construction.. the body's pretty much done, and we're discussing neck and the bits of inlay I want.. tailpiece gone for engraving no wonder I want to hold off re: bigger stuff!

[paganskins]

Oh. seem to have lost a post. well anyways, gonna have a think. cheers all. I'm terrified I'll walk away with another commission done.

ps the A style mando is still under construction.. the body's pretty much done, and we're discussing neck and the bits of inlay I want.. tailpiece gone for engraving no wonder I want to hold off re: bigger stuff!

I've sent you a PM re the flyde if you do want to move it on at some point.