New bridge for Gibson AJr: Cumberland, Siminoff or Stew Mac?

[Lachenal]

Hi

I bought a '26 Gibson A Jr. It's a wonderful mandolin but, for my taste, It has too much high action. I red a lot of posts in this forum (for a newbie It is a gold mine) and I'd make a decision. I'll buy a adjustable bridge... But which one? I don't search an "era" replica so my shortlist has this three names: Cumberland, Siminoff, "StewMac". The first two are more expensive but for my AJr I don't go to town ;-)
What's your advice?

Thanks a lot

E.B.
Milan, Italy

[Vernon Hughes]

#1 vote is for the cumberland,although the stewmac Randy Wood is a fine bridge as well. I've used both on old gibson round holes with very satisfactory results. The key is fitting the bridge base to the top for optimum sound.

[fscotte]

Used em all and they all work fine.

[Clement Barrera-Ng]

Another vote for Cumberland. Ifnmyou send Steve the string heights he will be able to tell you whether to go with a regular or shortboy

[BradKlein]

More important than the brand of the bridge is the person who will fit the bridge to the top of your A-Jr. You can do it yourself, if you're comfortable doing luthier work, otherwise you'll want to look for a repair shop with experience with gibson mandolins.

[Randy Linam]

Another vote for The Cumberland Acoustic bridge. All of my mandolins receive one. IMHO next to a proper set-up a CA bridge is by far the best thing you can do for a mandolin. Call Steve. Tell him what you have and he will send you what you need. Great people and an excellent product at a fair price. What more could you ask for???

[Bill Snyder]

Just wondering why Darryl Wolfe's bridges don't receive more notice on the forum. He is known as being one of the preeminent authorities on Lloyd Loar signed Gibson mandolins and I see his reproduction pickguards recommended but not much about his bridges. I know that he uses an LL bridge for a pattern and I assume that he uses good quality ebony for them so I would imagine that his bridge for $35.00 would be an excellent choice for replacement.
The pickguard and bridge can be seen HERE.
FWIW I have no financial interest in this nor do I know Mr. Wolfe. I do know that he has been a valuable source of information to the mandolin community that meets at the Mandolin Cafe.

[Lachenal]

Thanks for your advices. I'll write to Mr. Cumberland to ask about the best bridge for my Ajr. With the aid of Mr. Meldrum's "how to set up a mandolin" (thank Mr. Meldrum to send to me your thorough publication) I'll have a lot of informations to talk about. But, I have a last question. What about brekke bridge? I red that one of its strong point is that you can modify the height without change the strings tension. Other good point, but not essential,is that it looks like the original Gibson "one piece" bridge. Anyone have it in non Weber mandolin?

[Michael Lewis]

All those bridges mentioned can work well.

One point about adjusting bridge height with strings at tension; the Brekke bridge adjustment screws can strip the wood threads in the bridge base. I don't know how to lift the string tension off the saddle without lowering the string tension.
For the traditional Gibson style bridge like Cumberland, Woods, Siminoff, etc. you can slip a wedge under the end of the saddle between the base to raise the saddle enough to lift it off the adjuster wheels, which you can adjust with your fingers.

[acousticphd]

Thanks for your advices. I'll write to Mr. Cumberland to ask about the best bridge for my Ajr. With the aid of Mr. Meldrum's "how to set up a mandolin" (thank Mr. Meldrum to send to me your thorough publication) I'll have a lot of informations to talk about. But, I have a last question. What about brekke bridge? I red that one of its strong point is that you can modify the height without change the strings tension. Other good point, but not essential,is that it looks like the original Gibson "one piece" bridge. Anyone have it in non Weber mandolin?

My old Gibson has a good modern adjustable ebony bridge, and I think you'll be glad to have made this change. I would go with the Stewmac ebony bridge myself; I think it is good quality/cost. I don't have experience with the Brekke, but people have pointed out here that it can be hazardous to try to wedge up the Brekke saddles under string pressure. I think it's safer to relax the tension first. On the other hand, it is usually not hard to lower the saddle on an adjustable bridge under normal string tension.

[MysTiK PiKn]

To me, adjusting a bridge under full tension is like flirting with a spring-loaded bomb. Of course, if you enjoy top repairs, be my guest - but not on my mandolin. I always reduce tension (at least), going up or down.

[VernBrekke]

Just a quick response to Michael's comment about stripped adjusting screws on Brekke Bridges. The only original Brekke bridges that I have ever heard of that had stripped screws were a few of the very earliest ones that had 4-40 screws located in light brown ebony bridges. Nor has Bruce, at Weber, ever mentioned that they have had any warranty issues with the original bridge (I still do engineering and design for them).

After we switched to 6-32 screws and increased the screw length to ½ inch, made sure that the screws were in solid black ebony and added graphite to the sliding surfaces, which was done many years ago, I have never heard of stripped screws on a bridge. It's possible that we are not being told about it, but from the number of people who complain about the tiniest, most insignificant flaws in an instrument it would seem that we would hear about bridges that don't adjust.

I have had a few people lose the screws in their older bridges. If the bridge was not adjusted occasionally, dirt and body oil could cake up and make the wedges stick. Without pressure on the screws, from the wedges, the screws can vibrate out.

It's generally a good idea to adjust the bridge up and down occasionally. Adjust the bridge down first. If the saddle doesn't go down, the wedges are stuck. At that point, if you want to avoid a loud slamming sound when the wedge releases, adjust the screw back in until it is snug to the wedge and then back it off about a 1/2 turn. Insert the adjustment tool through the slot in the bridge and, using both hands, pull the wedge down to the screw. Once it has released, it should adjust normally up and down.

I haven’t heard of wedges sticking after we started adding graphite to the edges, but I guess that it could happen.

Thanks for your time,

Vern Brekke
Bridger Products

[Bill Snyder]

Thanks for your advices. I'll write to Mr. Cumberland to ask about the best bridge for my Ajr. With the aid of Mr. Meldrum's "how to set up a mandolin" (thank Mr. Meldrum to send to me your thorough publication) I'll have a lot of informations to talk about. But, I have a last question. What about brekke bridge? I red that one of its strong point is that you can modify the height without change the strings tension. Other good point, but not essential,is that it looks like the original Gibson "one piece" bridge. Anyone have it in non Weber mandolin?

Just for your information there is no Mr. Cumberland. Steve Smith started and still runs Cumberland Acoustic.

[Clement Barrera-Ng]

Just wondering why Darryl Wolfe's bridges don't receive more notice on the forum. .

I actually had no idea that Darryl Wolfe makes bridges or pickguards, so many thanks for pointing that out.

[pfox14]

Probably a good idea to upgrade to an adjustable height bridge, but originally the A-Jr. did not have it. The A-Jr. and A-0 had fixed height solid bridges.

[Wes Brandt]

And once you get it installed …another way to adjust mandolin bridges...

Made mainly as a universal tool for various electric guitar nuts and available from many sources …ESP wrenches work well on tune-o-magic bridges type bridges, arch top guitar bridges ...and cut one down to the right size and shape and it works quite nicely for mandolins… The stainless steel is soft so it doesn't chew and you can even "sharpen" or reshape the teeth.

[Michael Lewis]

Vern, Thanks for the education. I have seen only one Brekke bridge with stripped threads, but that is enough to make me a bit leery of adjusting under load. Glad to know what you gave us.