crack in mandolin top suggestion on fix

**darrylicshon** · Oct-28-2015, 5:21pm

Took my mandolin out to play today and found this crack in the top. I admit i take this mandolin places i shouldn't it gets abused but i can't stop taking it with me.
How would you fix this crack, thanks

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**multidon** · Oct-28-2015, 5:56pm

Darryl, I had a crack almost exactly like that in one of my Webers. I took it to a professional luthier, and this is exactly what he did. He bent the wing down slightly to widen the crack and then massaged some Titebond into the crack, then he took a length of masking tape, fastened one end under the wing of the F hole, then pulled upwards to close the crack. He then fastened the other side of the tape to the side of the instrument so that the tension would stay on it. The tension of the tape in effect clamped the crack shut. He wiped off the squeeze out with a damp rag and told me not to take the tape off for 24 hrs. He told me it would be perfectly stable but you would always be able to see it and feel it. It is what it is, he said. I could not live with it like that so I sent it to Weber and they made it essentially disappear. But if you are ok with it remaining visible it is a very easy repair. The hard part isn't the repair itself, it's the touch up to make it disappear. I could have done what the first luthier did myself, easily. I might have gone with hot hide glue, or maybe not.

These are pretty common. They are called wing cracks. Mine was caused by impact. I believe yours was too, I see a suspicious looking dent. I dropped a headlock tuner on mine.

**billhay4** · Oct-28-2015, 6:33pm

A couple of caveats:]
1) A professional luthier would probably use hide glue on this repair as it wicks in very well and is easy to "unglue" should that be needed. Stronger, too. Unfortunately, for a home repair, this is not easy to do.
2) Be very careful bending the wing to avoid making the crack worse.
3) I might consider a small cleat on the underside after the glue is set up.
Bill

**multidon** · Oct-28-2015, 7:04pm

Not sure why he went with Titebond. I know he uses hide glue but the pot was not going at the time. It seems strong enough. In the case of my Weber the F holes have fabric reinforcement all around so cleats were not possible or necessary. The crack didn't go through the fabric. If there's just bare wood there, then yes, cleats.

**sunburst** · Oct-29-2015, 9:51am

Normally, if the f-hole crack is new and tight, I'll apply water thin superglue to the end of the crack, inside the f-hole, using a capillary tube. The CA will wick and follow the crack, and as soon as the crack is completely glued, the capillary tube is taken away so that no excess glue is applied. In a new, clean crack, that repair can be nearly invisible, and a little buffing can sometimes make it completely invisible.
This one shows some finish chipping and it looks like the color is in the finish rather than applied to the wood, so this crack will not "disappear" without some rather expert finish touch-up. In this case, either CA or hide glue will do the job.
It's a situation where I can't imagine any reason we would ever want to "unglue" the crack once it is fixed. CA is quick, neat and secure in a tight, clean crack. I would not install a cleat unless it is needed for support because of missing wood from the crack or any other reason that the crack needs to be forcibly realigned or held in alignment.

**multidon** · Oct-29-2015, 10:27am

As usual, John gives great advice. However, in my particular case, wicking CA using his method from inside of the F hole would not have worked because of the cloth reinforcement around the hole. The glue had to be applied from the top, and CA is very tricky on finish and it is easy for an amateur to screw it up. Don't ask me how I know that! Hot hide would be great if you have it around but most people don't unless they are really into luthierie. I still think Titebond would work but since it is not thin and does not wick it has to be "massaged" into the crack. This would be the safest for an amateur job. It would be important to clamp it shut with the masking tape (light tack) using the method outlined above.

Agree with John that it is not necessary to worry about ever reversing this repair. Why would you want to? If you don't have the fabric reinforcement a cleat or two probably wouldn't hurt, but as John states, most likely not necessary.

**sunburst** · Oct-29-2015, 10:43am

Yep, the "gauzing" discussion has been beaten nearly to death more than once around here, and this is one of the main reasons I don't use (and don't like) gauze around f-holes. The wood can crack even with the gauze there, and when it does, the gauze complicates the repair.

**darrylicshon** · Oct-29-2015, 10:46am

Thanks for all the responses i was thinking ca or hhg. A friend might still have some hide glue so i will see if not it's ca. No cloth on inside but i think it will be ok without a cleat. About seeing the crack after fixed i don't mind, the top has other marks and wear so it will be ok until i might decide to refinish it years down the road.