Replace Tailpiece on Gibson A2 with a James?

[Capt. E]

Wondering if anyone has replaced the original tailpiece on a vintage Gibson A from around 1920 with a James cast tailpiece? I understand it does not require any change in the screw holes. Does it improve the mandolin's tone?

[Ray(T)]

Why would you want to replace an original tailpiece? As for the sound, probably not but the new set of strings should

[MikeEdgerton]

Can you change the tailpiece? Sure. Will it improve the tone? Probably as much as changing to a different strap would. I hope you'll hear a difference if you do it because I hate to see folks spend money and not hear a difference but everyone else that hears you play probably won't hear any difference. James tailpieces are works of art though. I'm seriously considering changing to one on my mandola. I want to do it because I like the way it looks, I carry no expectation that there will be a change in the tone of the instrument.

[George R. Lane]

I changed the tailpiece on my Weber Yellowstone, it was a cast piece. I did it not to change the tone, there was no difference, but to make changing strings easier. If you are looking for an improvement in tone I suggest you try different strings, The James is a well built piece of art and makes string changing a breeze. So, if you want to change it I say go ahead but, keep the original and put it in the case.

[Capt. E]

Just what I thought. I'll pass on the idea. The original tailpiece seems to be working fine and the cover with it's beautiful "The Gibson" is always a pleasure to view.
The only thing I may change on my A2 is to put an adjustable bridge on (saving the original of course).
By the way, here is the original Purchase Order:

[WW52]

I prefer the original tailpiece on my A-2, but an adjustable bridge is a necessity for me.

[Capt. E]

A "Cumberland Acoustics" bridge or other suggestion?

[WW52]

Cumberland Acoustics is as good as I know of. I like to tweak my bridges and saddles quite a bit and sometimes make my own saddles. I haven't otherwise tried bridges from very many other sources, so I'm sure others here can be more helpful with that. I do usually have to make small saddle adjustments a couple times during each season of the year and I prefer a wider thumb wheel as it makes it easier for me if I need to do it when I'm playing out.

[mandroid]

Some "improvements" are declared to make the Money spent and effort taken to do it, feel justified ..

In a Gig, when you Break a string, It makes the string replacement faster .

That may be all the rationale you need. If that is the situation you foresee.

carry on ..

I have 2 1922 A Mandolins they are largely the same as I Got them ,

I bought a fossil Walrus Ivory Upper bridge portion for my A4 from a luthier in AK
it seemed a good idea at the time, since the ebony one had a split in it.

And it looks right with the 'Ivoroid' ring around the sound Hole.


I have a James replacement on my Lebeda ..Nothing lined up on that,
but the bigger footprint of that tailpiece covered all the plugging and re drilling ..

[WW52]

Some "improvements" are declared to make the Money spent and effort taken to do it, feel justified ..

In a Gig, when you Break a string, It makes the string replacement faster .

That may be all the rationale you need. If that is the situation you foresee.
carry on

I agree.

I've kept my original tailpiece on purely for the sake of the look of originality and though I virtually never break strings, I wouldn't necessarily rule out switching to a James someday. It would definitely make string changes a lot easier & quicker.

[John Soper]

If you break strings often during gigs... it's just another justification for that next mandolin that you need to buy!

[fatt-dad]

My A3 has returned to the original bridge. I didn't like the adjustable bridge and actually never had a problem with the original. So, it's back on and I'm happy.

I have no problems with the original tailpiece.

f-d