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Thread: Would this work?

  1. #26
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    I have seen bridges with that trough. Why does that not affect the tone as there is more wood not touching the top than on a moderately ill fitting bridge. Also I've seen reports on here ( I think is where I read it) that there is no noticeable difference between a full contact bridge and one with feet. Why?

  2. #27
    Registered User bernabe's Avatar
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by Marty Jacobson View Post
    It gets shorter, so it tips back more. Assuming "back" means towards the tailpiece.
    The wheel is 2" +/- behind the bridge and is pinned down to the bridge base by the thumb wheels on the front of the jig. As material is removed and the front of the jig is lowered, the base tilts more forward towards the fingerboard. Its the only direction it can possibly increase the lean.

  3. #28
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    Mandoplumb, you ask good but very difficult questions. It is generally taken as gospel that an ill fitting bridge will degrade the tonal performance of a mandolin, however I am unaware of any objective evidence that supports or contradicts this theory. An ill fitted bridge is easily noticed and taken as a sign of bad craftsmanship, a failing top, or something else. I know, I know - objective evidence of tone is perhaps impossible.
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  4. #29
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mandoplumb View Post
    I have seen bridges with that trough. Why does that not affect the tone as there is more wood not touching the top than on a moderately ill fitting bridge. Also I've seen reports on here ( I think is where I read it) that there is no noticeable difference between a full contact bridge and one with feet. Why?
    While there is more wood not touching the top, it is not touching with high and low spots (or pressure points), but equally touching it's entire length very well, just like a good fitting bridge. It may have to do with weight, or just a way to fit better with good contact the entire length of the bridge easier than without the trough.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  5. #30

    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by bernabe View Post
    The wheel is 2" +/- behind the bridge and is pinned down to the bridge base by the thumb wheels on the front of the jig. As material is removed and the front of the jig is lowered, the base tilts more forward towards the fingerboard. Its the only direction it can possibly increase the lean.
    We must have a difference of frame of reference somewhere. If it were more important I'd draw it out. No big deal though.

  6. #31
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    When the fit is good (crosssanding) I will scrape away some material from the bottom only leaving about 1 cm untouched at the
    ends.
    When strung up, the tension will conform the bridge base to the top and You wont see any lifting at the base ends over time
    Probably not usable for full contact bridges, but for two footed ones, as perfect as I can get it.
    Jens

  7. #32
    Registered User fscotte's Avatar
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mandoplumb View Post
    I have seen bridges with that trough. Why does that not affect the tone as there is more wood not touching the top than on a moderately ill fitting bridge. Also I've seen reports on here ( I think is where I read it) that there is no noticeable difference between a full contact bridge and one with feet. Why?
    Because bridges dont transfer energy from the strings like electricity or water. The vibrations don't flow through the feet of the bridge.

    I see the purpose of the bridge as bringing tension to the entire mandolin, like your fingers pulling back the string of a bow. It acts as a fulcrum for tightening up the entire mandolin from the back to the top. A bow doesn't care if you have 1 finger or 4 fingers pulling on the string. When you start to pull a string with your pick, the back pushes and pulls at the same time, the neck pulls, the tail pulls, everything equally. The mandolin isn't sitting idle waiting for energy from the string, it reacts equally and immediately with the strings. Just like a bow.

    A simplified example and I know there's more to it, (where is Dr Cohen?), but this is how i see the purpose of the bridge. The advantage of full contact is less "ground pressure" being focused on two little feet, thus alleviating the possibility of cracks and deformations in the top.

  8. #33

    Default Re: Would this work?

    Bernabe, I have the wheel on the neck side when using the jig. (no florida in the way) If the wheel was on the tailpiece side the bridge would lean forward towards the neck as material is removed.

  9. #34
    Registered User bernabe's Avatar
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    I thought of that after posting. With elevated FB ext and "floridas" on most mandolins i put bridges on, it just seemed natural to go the other way. Ill shut up now

  10. #35
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by fscotte View Post
    Because bridges dont transfer energy from the strings like electricity or water. The vibrations don't flow through the feet of the bridge.
    I see the purpose of the bridge as bringing tension to the entire mandolin, like your fingers pulling back the string of a bow. It acts as a fulcrum for tightening up the entire mandolin from the back to the top. A bow doesn't care if you have 1 finger or 4 fingers pulling on the string. When you start to pull a string with your pick, the back pushes and pulls at the same time, the neck pulls, the tail pulls, everything equally. The mandolin isn't sitting idle waiting for energy from the string, it reacts equally and
    immediately with the strings. Just like a bow
    A simplified example and I know there's more to it, (where is Dr Cohen?), but this is how i see the purpose of the bridge. The advantage of full contact is less "ground pressure" being focused on two little feet, thus alleviating the possibility of cracks and deformations in the top.
    I agree with everything you said but that doesn't explain why the bridge needs to fit the top perfectly. It would do everything you said if it didn't touch the top everywhere, it seems to do it with the middle above the top or even having a trough in the feet.

  11. #36
    Registered User fscotte's Avatar
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by Mandoplumb View Post
    I agree with everything you said but that doesn't explain why the bridge needs to fit the top perfectly. It would do everything you said if it didn't touch the top everywhere, it seems to do it with the middle above the top or even having a trough in the feet.
    I'm not really sure it has to be a "perfect" fit if it's acting as a fulcrum. But bridges do something else too, because a steel bridge or an ivory bridge offers a different flavor of tone, so I think their influence on tone is complex.

  12. #37

    Default Re: Would this work?

    Quote Originally Posted by fscotte View Post
    I'm not really sure it has to be a "perfect" fit if it's acting as a fulcrum. But bridges do something else too, because a steel bridge or an ivory bridge offers a different flavor of tone, so I think their influence on tone is complex.
    Boooorrrring. Just tell me how to upgrade my KM-150 so it sounds like my buddy's Nugget.

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  14. #38
    Registered User mtucker's Avatar
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    Default Re: Would this work?

    All of it may seem oversimplified but there's more than meet's the eye. The devil is in the detail.
    Last edited by mtucker; Oct-11-2016 at 6:09pm.

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