How to spot a good inexpensive bowl-back mando (eBay, craigslist)

[Pineapple Pete]

I'm in the market for a bowl-back mandolin. Let's say the total budget is $200.

I am very well-versed in the art of hunting on Craigslist and eBay.

What brands should I look for, and what brands should I avoid?

I am a multi-instrumentalist and have been playing guitar for over 25 years, so I know what the danger signs are (twisted neck, blackened/rusted strings with very high action, cracks/splits).

I have owned A- and F-styles before, both "better" and cheaper ones. I am a mediocre mandolinist, but I can get around on the first 5-7 frets OK, hence my desire for something that isn't just pretty to look at or just play 1st position chords on.

Thanks in advance for the advice. Long-time lurker, just registered.

[MikeEdgerton]

The vast majority of bowlbacks you are going to find will not have a brand name on them.

[JeffD]

My experience in the US is that it will take more than $200 to get something in decent shape. There are exceptions, but its not the way to bet.

To this extent - if I saw a bowl back for $200 I would be suspicious of its condition.

[DavidKOS]

Bargain bowlbacks exist. BUT - like the previous posters have stated, the condition is important. There are lots of them around, and most need some work to be really playable.

[Mark Gunter]

One good way to learn how to spot what may be a good deal is to read up about bowlback mandolins here at the cafe (search is your friend). Seems you understand a bit about stringed instruments in general. One thing that I learned here is that, generally speaking, the better quality bowlbacks tend to have more ribs in the back.

If you have experience setting up stringed instruments, you may find a decent bowlback for less than $200. The first mandolin I owned was bought on a whim from eBay, I paid about $60 for it, because it was nothing special, I think this was 2014. It was a MarkStern brand, no telling what factory actually made it, and after receiving it I made a new ebony nut for it and a new bridge. It played rather well, and is in my daughter's possession now.

[brunello97]

Look for a (labeled) American Conservatory mandolin. They were Lyon and Healy's second line after the Washburns, but often equal or surpass them in quality of materials and craft. Washburns and AC mandolins were quite well made and tend to have held up well--all other things and caveats included.

You should be able to get a proper AC for $200 with some careful looking. They are one of the best $$ / value mandolins on the vintage market.

Mick

[MikeEdgerton]

The one thing I want to add is make sure you can send it back. Sometimes these mandolins look great and have real issues. I speak from experience.

[fentonjames]

the more strips of wood that make up the bowl, the better. higher end ones had more than low end ones.

[DavidKOS]

the more strips of wood that make up the bowl, the better. higher end ones had more than low end ones.

Well, yes, and no. Most of the lower end mandolins had very few staves on the backs. A lot of the better ones did have more staves.

BUT

You can find fine bowlbacks with limited or no decorations and modest numbers of staves. It is not a direct constant in the middle price points. The quality of the wood, tone and action are more important then, rather than the sheer number of staves and decorations..

[JeffD]

Well, yes, and no. Most of the lower end mandolins had very few staves on the backs. A lot of the better ones did have more staves.

BUT

You can find fine bowlbacks with limited or no decorations and modest numbers of staves. It is not a direct constant in the middle price points. The quality of the wood, tone and action are more important then, rather than the sheer number of staves and decorations..

I was taken in by a bowl back for very little, which had many staves, so I thought. In actuality it had very few, but each had additional groves to make it look like three staves.

[JeffD]

My experience is that one of the more important things to look at is the neck joint, where it all comes together. I would not purchase a bowl whose neck joint was loose, or cracked, or had evidence of being repaired in the past.

[Capt. E]

The biggest caveat is the condition of the neck. I have had a dozen or so vintage bowl backs pass through my hands and only ONE had a straight neck. The neck gets pulled up, making the action terrible and the intonation off. This can be fixed, but will cost you more than your $200 for the repair. Good ones at $200 or so are out there, but very very hard to find.

[Bob A]

Good bowlbacks for $200 are a matter of luck coupled with information. It can happen, but not often. I have a dozen or more, and I can't recall ever getting one that cheaply.

Sometimes you can find a cheap DeMeglio; there seems to have been a ton of them produced. But condition is everything, especially as regards playability. Unless you're prepared to purchase and return a large handful of instruments, the money you spend on return shipping costs might as well be applied to the cost of a decent playable mandolin. Or you can look at it as tuition.

[Scot63]

Still some good deals out there. I bought my 1910s Wm A. Stahl mandolin on ebay, after offering $70 on a $90 listing. I suspected from the pictures that it had an ebony fretboard, and Stahl is one of the brands that the legendary Larson Brothers made mandolins for. It came without a bridge, with no binding, in pretty beat shape, including a deteriorating pickguard (just been played a lot), and with some extra paint spots on it. Still, it played spot on once I added a bridge. It is a very loud instrument with nice articulation and extremely easy to play. I think, after some more research, that it was made by Regal. In the end, I put a couple hundred dollars into binding, set up, and a new pickguard—money well spent on my favorite mandolin.

[brunello97]

....—money well spent on my favorite mandolin.

Once you go bowl, it's hard to go back.

Mick

[JeffD]

Brings up a good point - one might find a bargain, but the cost of getting it into good shape brings the total cost up to what you would expect to pay for something in that good a shape.

[August Watters]

http://www.stutzmansguitarcenter.com...lin%20sISI3703

[Mark Gunter]

Brings up a good point - one might find a bargain, but the cost of getting it into good shape brings the total cost up to what you would expect to pay for something in that good a shape.

A good point - and I had forgotten that I also installed new tuners on the MarkStern bowl I bought, so total cash investment including parts was about $150 + some woodworking skills to get it right.

[Jim Garber]

You are better off getting a simpler lower-end vintage name brand mandolin than a upper-end ornate one. Pearl and other inlays does not help the sound. I like Vega, Washburn, Martin, American Conservatory, Weymann, Stahl, Maurer of the vintage American bowlbacks. That assumes you are in North America. Let us know if you are living in Europe and we can make other suggestions.

As others have noted, you are probably better spending more and buying from a reputable dealer to get an instrument in playable condition vs. taking the chance with something that may have issues and for which you may not have any recourse.

Also the only new bowlbacks I have played were the Eastman ones and those are very nice tho assuming you find one will be lots more than $200. I would steer clear of the Taiwanese/Vietnamese ebay sellers who have nice looking bowlbacks. More than likely they will be disappointing.

I have owned A- and F-styles before, both "better" and cheaper ones. I am a mediocre mandolinist, but I can get around on the first 5-7 frets OK, hence my desire for something that isn't just pretty to look at or just play 1st position chords on.

Actually, I wonder why you are focusing on bowlbacks? Any particular reason? I don't quite get what you are saying above? Why bowlbacks and why not flatbacks? Also, bear in mind that some mandolinists, even very experienced ones get annoyed with the unwieldiness of playing a bowlback. If you are determined of course you can learn to play them but some folks give up pretty quickly. If you can, try borrowing one for awhile before you put down cold cash for your own. Just my 2 cents. I happen to like them and own quite a few, but I do see what happens. Plus you can probably do quite nicely for your $200 for a lowerend, say, Kentucky or The Loar.

[Pineapple Pete]

Concentrating on a bowlback because I perform as a character that would have played a mando-family instrument in the late 17th and early 18th centuries. I'd much prefer an antique look.

What I meant was that since I can play a little bit up the neck, I need a mando with low action that I don't have to fight with - otherwise, if this were just about cosmetics, I could buy a $75 or less busted-up bowlback on eBay with pretty inlays and just pose with it instead of actually playing.

I have played bowlback mandolins as well as Ovation guitars, so I know the hazards of the deep, rounded back. I, by the way, have somewhat of a "bowl front", so unwieldy is not an issue, it's rather a way of life.

[JeffD]

I, by the way, have somewhat of a "bowl front", so unwieldy is not an issue, it's rather a way of life.

Emulate the instrument. I like it.

[mandroid]

In regards to brands, a Familiar one;

Many years ago, I had a CF Martin made bowl back mandolin.., Transitional period perhaps?
It had a pick guard styled like their flat tops..

made of Mahogany, with a Spruce top, of course.

[LadysSolo]

I bought 4 bowlbacks from ebay in a year, each was about $200, and all were playable after new strings were installed. My favorite is the Puglisi, I also have a Vega, an American Conservatory, and a Lyon and Healy. All are easy enough to play, one is a little hard to keep in tune. Look at all the pictures CAREFULLY before you buy! I think you can get a good one for $200 plus a new set of strings.

[Kalasinar]

If shipping isn't an issue you can buy restored bowlbacks from Dave Hynds based in France. He does good work and puts restored stock up on his site regularly. I recently bought a bowlback from him and love it. For the money I paid I knew I'd get a playable instrument that has already had the attentions of a luthier. Buying off eBay etc and then getting the work done could probably be more expensive in the long run.

Website is mandolinluthier.com, and he also has a Facebook page titled Mandolin Hospital (fascinating photos of the restoration process).

[Pineapple Pete]

If shipping isn't an issue you can buy restored bowlbacks from Dave Hynds based in France.

I've checked out his site based on your recommendation, and:

1) There are a few that, even with shipping from France, would cost not much more than a new Chinese plywood mandolin with tax, case, etc from a brick/mortar store in my area.

2) There be LOTS of pretty things on there I can't afford, but I'm oh, so tempted.

Thanks for mentioning him - there is a good (probably better than average) chance my new-to-me mando will come from him.