What A style Oval hole mandolins to consider in $2000 range?

[pheffernan]

Also, Greg Boyd has a very nice Mike Black A2. I don't know the nut width.

It's an A4 with the OP's preferred 1-3/16" wide nut: https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/110128#110128

http://gregboyd.com/product/2013-mik...hole-mandolin/

[red7flag]

That is a really nice looking A4. I see you have one, Pheff. What is the tone like?

[pheffernan]

That is a really nice looking A4. I see you have one, Pheff. What is the tone like?

Mine is a blacktop A2-z as played here by Mike:

[GASguy]

Hello to all.

Thank you all for your input it is very much appreciated. I have been checking in regularly and using the suggestions, information and comments you have provided to help guide my search.

After a lot of deliberation and looking at and listening to sound samples including instruments by Collings, Pava, Black, Pomeroy, Old Wave, and other carved top mandolins, as well as flat top mandolins from Flatiron, Crystal Forest, Poe, and others I have made my decision.

I was very close to purchasing the used Poe Scout recently offered in the classifieds here, I also liked the Pomeroy and Black oval holes a lot.

But the instrument that sounded closest to the sound I wanted, the elusive sound "inside my head" came from this instrument and others like it from Old Wave:




The open, warm, full sound of the Old Wave oval hole mandolins kept pulling me back, despite looking at and listening to many other options. Old Wave # 578 is now on its way to me.
See link below for the Mandolin Cafe classified ad.
Thank you all for your time and consideration.

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/109622#109622

[pheffernan]

Old Wave # 578 is now on its way to me. See link below for the Mandolin Cafe classified ad. Thank you all for your time and consideration.

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/109622#109622

What do I win?

I'd like to try this one: https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/109622#109622

[Mark Wilson]

Decide what you want. There are differences.

f-d

I've only played the old Gibsons. The neck was to big for me but I dig the tone. Is the tone distinctively different on the hybrids?

[Jill McAuley]

Just noticed the OP is awaiting the arrival of a lovely Old Wave oval A - congratulations! For anyone else in the market who's been following this thread, here's a nice Mike Black oval A over at Greg Boyd's House of Fine Instruments right now - NFI on my part.

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/110128#110128

[Charles E.]

That Old Wave mandolin is pure "eye candy", congratulations!

[Br1ck]

Very nice. $2000 used buys a lot of A style mandolin.

[Sherry Cadenhead]

I'm reviving this thread because I'm fascinated with oval hole A mandolins. I've never played one, and won't have an opportunity to do so for the foreseeable future. At the point in time I have the opportunity to play a variety of instruments, I'd like to narrow down the possibilities.

I primarily play classical, classic country and traditional hymns. I'm willing to spend between $2000 and $3000 for an instrument, but am open to spending less if the instrument best suits me.

What I've read in this thread:

Neck (nut?) width/length may be important.
Arch vs. flat tops may be important.
Suggested manufacturers: Collings (although more for Celtic music?), Northfield, Weber, Pava, Gilchrist, Girouard, Mike Black, Pomeroy, Old Wave.

Thoughts as to each of these points?

I have a friend with too many mandolins who wants to sell her 1920 Gibson. I noticed no one in this thread mentioned Gibson. Also, being a novice, I'm leery of owning a vintage instrument.

[pops1]

Sherry, you can't go wrong with an old Gibson in good playing condition. I used my '22 for a long time playing square dances and other gigs. It depends on the sound you want, the reach on the neck,(old Gibson and other copies have short neck to body), a modern X brace oval may have a brighter sound in the wound strings. The nut on an older Gibson can vary from 1 1/4" and smaller with chunky necks so will depend on what is comfortable to you. I have yet to find an oval that sounds as good as my Gibson. Nice deep bass and no tubby sound, I hate that, and warm highs with plenty of volume to cut in a jam. Enjoy the search it is as much fun as the purchase.

[fatt-dad]

I've owned my 1920 A3 for over 35 years. Sure, I had to fix it when I got it. Stable since.

Classical music can certainly be played on a bluegrass mandolin - f-holes, either a or f-body. Chris Thile certainly does it!

Price point for a teens oval hole Gibson is less than the makers you cite.

For me? The neck joint location is the big difference in oval hole mandolins.

Then again, that's me.

f-d

[Sherry Cadenhead]

For me? The neck joint location is the big difference in oval hole mandolins.

f-d, can you please elaborate?

[Bob Clark]

Hi Sherry,

A good way to envision the difference in neck join locations is to go to Mike Black's website here:

http://blackmandolins.com/a4-mandolins.html

Look at his A4 mandolin and follow along the neck to the twelfth fret. See how the neck joins the body here? Also, the fret board is flush with the mandolin top.

Now, look at his A5 model. Again, follow along the neck, this time to the 15th fret. See how the neck joins the body here, rather than at the 12th fret? Also, note that the fret board is slightly elevated off the top of the mandolin.

Look through his gallery to see this from a variety of angles. His mandolins are traditional A4 and A5 builds and are, to my mind, as good as mandolins get. His site will make the difference clear to you.

Best wishes, Bob

[JeffD]

I don't think that has anything to do with the oval hole itself. Its just the custom among arch top Gibsonesque style oval hole mandolns. There is nothing inherent in the oval hole that implies anything about the neck joint.

And going with an arch top is a choice in itself.

[Charles E.]

Of the makers you mentioned, the Gilchrist will be well above your stated price range. Also they very rarely come up. New Collings MT-O's are over 3K new but you might find a used one for less. Keep an eye on the classifieds.

Nothing wrong with a early 20's Gibson Snake Head. They can sound great, have adjustable truss rods and nice non-baseball bat necks that the teens A models have.
They are also usually priced in your price range.

[steve in tampa]

I have played some Webers that were wonderful.

[Jill McAuley]

I've owned many oval hole mandolins, some of which are on the list of builders you mentioned. I love old Gibson A's and had a really nice '27 A-jr, but ultimately the flat fretboard didn't work for me. I did need to get work done to it after buying it - new frets, new tuners, but otherwise it was structurally sound which was a plus. If it had had a radius fretboard I'd still have it. I sold it to get a Collings MT-O which was also a lovely mandolin, though with a very modern oval hole sound compared to the A-jr, but the MT-O's have a wider nut. I had been away from mandolin playing for a few years and just thought that the neck felt less comfortable to play because I was still getting used to playing regularly again. Then I got a chance to try someone's Girouard oval A, with a 1 1/8 nut vs. the Collings 1 3/16 nut and I immediately felt the difference. Long story short - going in knowing what your preferences are for nut width, flat vs. radius fretboard will help you narrow down your list of potential instruments.