Looking for some touch-up help (nmc)

[sunburst]

I have a 2011 Gibson J-45 on the bench. The guitar was dropped and part of the back was shattered. I've pieced together the parts that were not lost and fit new mahogany where the splinters were missing and all of that is done and in good shape. I am now trying to touch up the color so that I can finish the area.
Actually, it is not the color that is giving me problems, it is the cloudy, muddy aspect of the color that I, so far, can't seem to match.
Does anyone have experience with this color and finish? Any recommendations on how to match the cloudiness and muddiness aspect? all of my attempts are so clear and bright by comparison that the repair stands out far to much.

[sunburst]

A couple of pics to hopefully jog someones memory.

[sblock]

No experience with this, sorry. But it did occur to me that the cloudiness/muddiness (as opposed to the color) might be simulated by turning it from a glossy to more of a matte finish. There are a number of compounds you can add to your existing colors that scatter light and can turn things more matte (and also more cloudy), and there are also clear oversprays, like Krylon #1311 Matte finish, that have similar effects. Just a thought, not really a solution. You can then add a final, glossy topcoat over the matte, to match the rest of the back, but the result will be "cloudier/muddier." It might also give more of an "orange peel" effect, which this guitar seems to have.

[sunburst]

Yeah, I thought of trying that. I have silica and talc that I can add to lacquer, and it might work because much of the gloss is lost from this worn guitar and I don't have to bring the touch-up to a high gloss. When I apply color then spray alcohol over it (to simulate what it will look like under finish) the surrounding older finish almost looks like a blush compared to the newer color. I wonder if there is a way to get a controlled blush...

[CES]

I have nothing helpful to add, but am looking forward to seeing how you solve this problem, John Best wishes,

[Ward Elliott]

John... That is a tough one. Have you tried blotting on some powdered color with a pad similar to what you'd use for French polish? You can get it in all kinds of colors, including white, and it does leave an opaque look, especially if you apply it heavily. I've found it really handy after resetting fiddle necks, to darken the heel and the sides next to the heel where I've had to fit new wood. Good luck!

[Andy Miller]

As far as actual color goes, more pigment, less dye. To try to match old less-than-clear topcoats I've just mixed sealer in with the lacquer, trying to strike a balance between how much you build up (milkiness) and how dull the final sheen is.

[sunburst]

I had thought of trying something like Minwax or other pigment stain, but I hadn't thought of powdered pigments. I need to order from Mohawk anyway, so it looks like maybe burnt umber and/or burnt sienna will do the job.
I might have some vinyl sealer around here somewhere. I normally use shellac for sealer, but I tried vinyl sealer several hears ago. I'll try mixing a little of that in some lacquer if I can find it.
Thanks guys!

[lenf12]

For some reason silica and talc have a ring of truth to them. Your reference pix look like dust (of some kind) contaminated lacquer sprayed on pretty heavily to me, but what do I know?

Len B.
Clearwater, FL

[Mark Gunter]

Have you tried blotting on some powdered color with a pad similar to what you'd use for French polish? You can get it in all kinds of colors, including white, and it does leave an opaque look, especially if you apply it heavily.

+1

I wouldn't recommend heavy application though. You can get an "almost magical" control over the finished product by using a very light cut on padding agents and introducing the pigments by degrees in multiple layers.

[Vernon Hughes]

From back in my furniture restoration days..mohawk pigments rubbed in with a finger and then an airbrush shot or two of flat laquer with some transtint color mixed in.Might bring it in close enough then to give it a better coating of lacquer via HVLP gun, if that's your spray method. Maybe follow up with some steel wool and wool lube to give it the scratchy/aged look.Those muddy colors are tough.

[Andy Miller]

I had thought of trying something like Minwax or other pigment stain, but I hadn't thought of powdered pigments.

I've used some powdered pigments, but I've used a lot of brown Stewmac Color Tone liquid pigment. Brown grain fillers have brown pigment in them as well - sometimes they can pull double duty filling grain in the repair and bringing the color a few steps closer to matching up.

[Dale Ludewig]

This is probably the Mohawk stuff that will get the opacity and muddy thing.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/cata...asp?ictNbr=182

They only sell it in quarts and that's a bit much. But you might get something close by going to an art supply place and getting little tubes of pigment.

[Marty Jacobson]

Trans-tint dye in your lacquer (or whatever it is) will get it nice and muddy if you mix it strong enough. Looks like they just sprayed heavily tinted finish to get it to look like that. It looks like a car "4 of color and 3 of clear" application.