Instrument Case Stand

[Whittle]

My wife and I both play musical instruments. As our collection has grown, our instruments have taken up more and more floor space. In an effort to store our instruments efficiently, I decided we needed an instrument case stand (rather than thinning the herd ).

Instead of paying hundreds of dollars for a custom stand or a cabinet, I opted on building my own out of PVC until I find an antique wardrobe I can adapt.

I adapted the plans here to suit my needs. I added sides to his design and increased the width, among a few other things. Feel free to use my design and change it for your own purposes. Here is what the completed rack looks like without pipe insulation for padding:



Below is my supplies list:



3/4" PVC pipe lengths: Pick up three 10' lengths of schedule 40. I accidentally bought 200psi, which has a thinner wall. Schedule 40 will be even more sturdy. I made the following cuts using a miter saw.
2" x 6
3" x 4
6" x 4
8" x 4
12" x 4
16" x 2
48" x 4
Important: Plan out your cuts on your 10 foot lengths of pipe carefully so you don't end up wasting any PVC. I used graph paper to plan my cuts. Measure twice, cut once!

3/4" PVC pipe junctions:
Slip T x 14
Slip 3 way x 2
Slip 90 degree elbow x 6
Snap on T x 6 (2 aren't pictured above)

3/4" Pipe Insulation: These come in 6 foot lengths. Pick up 3 lengths.

Poplar Dowel Rods: Pick up four 48" dowel rods. The dowels serve as reinforcement for the "load bearing" rods. Two rods for the bottom, one for the back, and one to be split up and used on the sides.
48" x 3
18" x 2

For your dowel rod diameter, pick something that fits well inside your pipe. I used 5/8" because it fit well inside my 200psi pipe. You'll likely have to choose another diameter if you choose to use schedule 40 (which I recommend). Here's an example below of a pretty good fit:



Miscellaneous:
Gorilla Glue Epoxy - You could also use PVC glue, but I preferred the slightly longer set time for Gorilla Glue so I could make sure everything lined up.
Furniture sliders x 8 - I used felt 1.25" sliders to protect my floors.

[Whittle]

Assembly

Once you have all of your cuts done, let's assemble the two sides. You should dry fit your parts first to make sure you've got everything cut to the right length and pointing the correct direction. You'll need the following PVC pipe lengths and fittings per single side:

PVC Pipe Lengths
2" x 3
3" x 2
6" x 2
8" x 2
12" x 2
16" x 1

Pipe Fittings
Slip T x 7
Slip 3 way x 1
Slip 90 degree elbow x 3

Poplar Dowel Rod
18" x 1

Arrange your materials as shown below:(Note: the three T junctions that are not connected to anything on their middle junction should be pointing up towards you, similar to the 3-way elbow.)


Assemble the side, making sure to slide the dowel rod into the bottom of the rack before putting on the last 90 degree elbow on the bottom left. Here is an exploded view of one side next to an assembled side. Note how when they are stood up the T junctions mentioned above will be pointing towards one another.



Here are both sides assembled.


Grab your four 48" PVC pipes and three 48" dowel rods and connect the two sides. The 48" dowels will go inside the two bottom rungs (where the cases sit) and the top run on the back of the rack (where the cases lean). Rotate your junctions as needed to make the rack square and stable.

With the rack dry-assembled, take the time to mark the junctions between your fittings and your pipes (shown here). This will help you line up everything when gluing. Once you are happy with how everything is fitting, disassemble and reassemble the rack, this time gluing the pieces as you go. Firmly slip each pipe and pipe fitting together, and be careful to orient them to the correct direction using your guide marks. Glue each side first, then put in the 48" lengths last to put it all together. Don't forget about your dowels! Grab your 6 snap on T junctions and place 3 on each bottom rung, separating them by 12 inches between the center of each junction. This will help support the bottom bars to prevent sagging. With everything assembled and glued, your rack should now look like this:



You might need to slightly rotate a few pieces to help everything be square and stable on the floor. Let your glue cure for 24 hours before you do anything else.

[Tobin]

Very nice finished product! And excellent write-up.

I need to do something similar in my music room. I have a bunch of instruments in their cases laying on the floor or leaning against walls. I had considered making a rack like that, but using steel pipe and making it look retro-industrial. I just don't seem to have time for that project. I'll probably end up just repurposing a wardrobe.

[MikeEdgerton]

Nice work. I've used PVC for a few things over the years. The Gorilla glue is a good idea as the PVC cement is not forgiving at all when you make a mistake.

My wife's company was getting rid of a bunch of shelving. I had to buy some crossbar pieces from the Container store to finish this one out. It's an easy way to do it if you don't mind spending a few bucks.

[Jacob]

I use swim noodles, instead of pipe insulation, to pad microphone stands with small instruments hangers attached.

[Paul Busman]

PVC pipe-- Tinker Toys for adults!
I built a kayak storage rack for two kayaks with PVC. It was quick and easy and much cheaper than any of the commercial alternatives.

[Whittle]

Thanks for the feedback everyone! Here's a few more pictures:

I realized in my previous posts about assembling the sides that the photo I put up could use some clarification on which lengths of PVC pipe go where.



Here's the completed rack with pipe installation installed. As Jacob mentioned above, pool noodles would also work well.



One advantage of this design is that you can slide it right up to a wall. Here's the rack with a guitar case in it.



I plan on painting the rack soon. I have some spray paint meant for plastics. I will rough up the PVC with sandpaper, clean with acetone, and spray on a couple of coats of black paint. It help it look a little nicer.

[MikeEdgerton]

You had mentioned the Schedule 40 in a prior post. I never realized it came in colors other than black.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-...e/N-5yc1vZbueo

[Whittle]

You had mentioned the Schedule 40 in a prior post. I never realized it came in colors other than black.

http://www.homedepot.com/b/Plumbing-...e/N-5yc1vZbueo

Woah! That's really cool. My local store only had white. If I had known that schedule 40 came in different colors, I wouldn't have bothered with the paint!

[Mandoplumb]

You had mentioned the Schedule 40 in a prior post. I never realized it came in colors other than black. ]

PVC does not come in black. That is ABS and is not as stiff or ridget as PVC so not as good for projects such as this. PVC is white for plumbling and grey for electric conduit.
I'm not trying to be a nit picker, just don't want someone to use an inferior product with possible bad results.

[Mike Stewart]

PVC does not come in black.

Either PVC does, indeed, come in black, or Home Depot is lying. (From Edgerton’s link above.)

What was news to me was “furniture grade” PVC. People make enough things out of PVC that don’t involve plumbing that we have a new category now?

[Mandoplumb]

I've been plumbing 30 years and I've never seen black PVC. If it's made for projects other than plumbling is it real PVC and is it schedule 40. if so I stand corrected. I will go to Home Depot at my first opportunity and check it out for myself. I guess any color could be added, wonder how price compares to white?

[Don Grieser]

Mike, you'd be my hero but the guitar to mando ratio is way off.

Whittle, nice work.

Nice work. I've used PVC for a few things over the years. The Gorilla glue is a good idea as the PVC cement is not forgiving at all when you make a mistake.

My wife's company was getting rid of a bunch of shelving. I had to buy some crossbar pieces from the Container store to finish this one out. It's an easy way to do it if you don't mind spending a few bucks.

[MikeEdgerton]

Mike, you'd be my hero but the guitar to mando ratio is way off.

The guitars had a head start.

[MikeEdgerton]

I would imagine that Home Depot only carries white or black in stock at the stores. The others probably have to be ordered online. That doesn't mean a large distributor might not have the other stuff. I have seen different colored PVC in use in commercial buildings using colors for different requirements. I'm certainly not a plumber though.

[Timbofood]

Very interesting, it's not a problem I have with instruments but, making a new plant irrigation system in something other than white might be cool.

[Whittle]

Here is the finished product. After letting the glue cure, I sanded the pipes with 220 sandpaper to rough up the surface just a bit. I only did enough sanding to remove the shine. After sanding the pipes, I cleaned the whole rack with acetone and an old t-shirt. I let the rack dry for 30 minutes, and then spray painted the pipes with black spray paint rated for plastics (Rustoleum Paint for Plastic). I did not spray the pipes that would be covered by the pipe insulation. I needed 2 to 3 full coats for an even color, letting the rack dry between coats (30 minutes).

After letting the paint dry overnight, I put on the insulation and felt pads to protect the floors.



Here it is with my cases.



Overall, this was a fun and rewarding project that saved me a lot of money over the alternative. I'm very pleased with how the black paint helped the rack blend in with the cases. If I could do it again, I'd make sure I actually bought schedule 40 pipe rather than 200 psi.

[Tobin]

Man, that's sharp! I like how it turned out.

I used that same sanding-acetone preparation process several years ago for painting white PVC when I was installing my rainwater catchment system. It was 4" PVC pipe from my gutters to my tanks. The Rustoleum for plastic surfaces paint lasted surprisingly well, even in the brutal Texas sun. I figured it would flake off within a year or two. But it adhered well and finally started to fade and turn chalky after about 7 years. It was a hailstorm that finally started to chip the paint off. At any rate, you may want to keep that can of paint handy for touch-ups if you ding it with the cases.

I looked at Home Depot over the weekend and didn't see any PVC other than white and grey. I'm thinking these other colors are only available for online ordering or special-ordering at stores. Too bad - I'd really like to experiment with them a bit for making plant stands and random household items.

[jim simpson]

When I was framing the family/music room in, I added a closet for the purpose of instruments-in-cases storage. Two sliding closet doors keep things tidy.

[MikeZito]

I can't help but notice that (like most people I know) everybody seems to store their instruments vertically. Does anybody do them horizontally? I have heard that horizontal storage is not detrimental to the instruments, and that guys like Rick Nielsen and Joe Perry keep their collections stored that way.

Just curious.

[Timbofood]

If I had space, I'd store them horizontally but, I can go higher than I can deep that's all. If I ever get around to doing the cabinet work I have planned, I will consider that, and may not do it but, I will consider it.
Stacked side by side it's easier than trying to pull the "one on the bottom" out. Just a thought.

[showmethemoney]

So glad I came across this. Although I used this plan for guitar cases, it worked like a charm. I also bought all pvc that was already black to save effort. It was not much more and was worth it. Thanks for posting.

[pops1]

I did almost the same thing, but out of 2X4's. The added strength made it possible to make it two layers high so I get more in the limited space that I have. The top layer is for shorter cases, mandolin, violin, bottom for guitar sized.

[btlmaniac]

Nice job on the design and execution of this rack !
I am building one (or two) to go in the back of an RV. I thought I'd NOT use the "feet". and that way I can screw the rails into the floor for security. I am wondering how road vibration might affect the joints. But, I'll just have to try it to find out !
I am also considering using 1" schedule 40 instead of 3/4", but cannot see that much difference, strength-wise....your thoughts?
Thanks again for the detailed photos and materials list; I'll post mine when complete. I have 96" side-to-side; so will make 2 racks; possibly interlocking, with some sort of strapping to go across the cases to keep them upright.

[Nevin]

This is great. A word of caution: If you are using it for instruments, not just cases, check that the padding (pipe insulation etc) isn't vinyl. Vinyl can damage some finishes, nitrocellulose in particular.