Looking to build first mandolin from cherry burl

[Peter123]

Has any one on here built a mandolin from raw wood? I have a beautiful cherry burl that I'd love to make a mandolin out of is it possible? Also the wood is still green how would I season it?

[multidon]

Others with more experience will chime in I'm sure. But I know there are some who will say that you have to let wood air dry a minimum of 5 years, ten is better. Kiln drying quickens things but may create instability that makes it unsuitable for building. Violin makers let their stashes of wood season for 20 years or more for their best instruments. I know this is not what you want to hear. Maybe someone else know a better way to speed things up.

I think figured cherry would make a spectacular looking mandolin. But are you an experienced instrument maker? When someone builds an instrument from "raw wood", as you put it, we call that a "scratch build". If this is your first build, doing it from scratch is not the easiest way. Most folks get some experience and chops doing kit builds or working on restoring flea market finds first before trying a scratch build. Of course there are exceptions and some folks just dive in, like you want to. It's possible, just not the easiest way. I've built kits but never had the nerve to try a scratch build. Also, cherry is not the easiest wood to work with. I built a dulcimer from cherry once and had the most awful time with splitting, chipping, and tear out. That all said, I'm sure a cherry mandolin would sound just fine, similar hardness to maple.

Was this to be a carved instrument? Or a flat top? If carved, is it quarter sawn already? If not, are you able to get a quarter sawn section from the log? Are you able to take that section and split it for a bookmatched back? Do you already own all the gouges, finger planes, etc. necessary to do the carving? There is a lot to consider here.

[sunburst]

I've started with cutting down the trees, so I guess that qualifies as raw wood.
The wood does have to be dried, but there is a difference between drying and seasoning. The 1 inch per year rule of thumb is just that; a rule of thumb. In good drying conditions wood can dry considerably faster than that, depending on the species of wood. Seasoning (storing for months or years beyond drying) may or may not benefit the wood, but it tends to be considered important by many builders because they've always been told that it is important.
I've build one mandolin from cherry wood and it sounded good. It is an excellent instrument wood, IMO. I have not, however, built a mandolin from burl, and I probably would not because burl wood is generally unstable and not good structurally.
For a first build, I would not suggest using burl wood, and unless you have plenty of space that is good for drying wood, start with prepared, dried wood from a supplier.

[Bill McCall]

You can shorten the drying period by sawing the wood down, to say 3/8 for the sides, and doing 'some' rough shaping for the back. Leave for 6 months, should be quite dry. You'll probably see irregular drying (shrinkage) in places and maybe some twist. May not turn out useable.

I would think bending the sides would be extremely problematic due to the highly irregular grain in such a thin piece. And I wouldn't want to make a neck out of it.

Turners use green wood all the time, but they rough turn and allow for distortion during seasoning before finishing. And often, over time, you'll still have some distortion.

Ymmv

[Spruce]

Has any one on here built a mandolin from raw wood?

Every mandolin is made from raw wood, unless it's carbon fiber or something...

Kiln drying quickens things but may create instability that makes it unsuitable for building.

I'd say 99% of all mandolins are made from KD'd wood these days...
...and a lot of the tonewood that is offered as "air-dried" is actually KD'd...

For a first build, I would not suggest using burl wood...

+1...

[Bill Snyder]

A nice slice of the burl might make for an attractive peghead overlay.

[Dale Ludewig]

I think the only place burl would have a place is what Bill just said- an overlay on the headstock or an overlay on a pickguard. Burl is very unstable and has little strength when thin.

[multidon]

Spruce, not ALL mandolins are made from raw wood. Sometimes it's roasted! Aka "torrified".

[Steve Sorensen]

. . . or Wedgewood Baked.

[Peter123]

What about making it out of a nice piece of maple

[fscotte]

As close as I'll get to burl wood. Good enough for a back I think.

[Spruce]

As close as I'll get to burl wood. Good enough for a back I think.

Fishbone!
What's the species?

[fscotte]

I don't know. Where I get it, they just call it maple. It's pretty hard though.