$75 seems cheap for something I bought 5 years ago, use 20+ hours a week and is still pretty much in "as-new" condition.
$75 seems cheap for something I bought 5 years ago, use 20+ hours a week and is still pretty much in "as-new" condition.
Axes: Eastman MD-515 & El Rey; Eastwood S Mandola
Amps: Fishman Loudbox 100; Rivera Clubster Royale Recording Head & R212 cab; Laney Cub 10
The 'protection for the back of the instrument' argument is, I suppose, valid for some pickers who either wear shirts with sharp buttons or lend out the mandolin to other, less-careful pickers often. There is also 'buckle rash' that can occur, but one would have to either wear the mandolin way down low or hike the trousers way up high for that to happen on the back. I've had my main mandolin for 19 years now, play it most every day, let other pickers try it out on occasion. There is nary a nick on the back. The argument that it enhances tone by keeping the back off the body is clearly valid, for some pickers. I don't use a tone guard.
Back in post #32 I stated that it the Tone Gard didn't seem to help the sound of my The Loar LM-220. Well, am now eating crow. Based on the urging of my wife ended up getting a Tone Guard for that mandolin. It does appear to make a difference. Maybe not as big of one as on my A Jr. but still a difference. My wife thinks the sound is a bit louder and fuller. From the playing position I hear slightly more bass and more "wood".
This purchase was a result of my having a little bit of right shoulder pain. Could be I'm just practicing more, but my wife felt that anything to make the mandolin sit further away from my body might help my mechanics. And I'm not going to argue when it comes to getting a new accessory (or mandolin).
FWIW, both of my mandolins now sport Tone Gards and CA arm rests. Would I have been better off just buying a more expensive instrument to start with than the LM-220? Possibly, but it still would have ended up with the TG, armrest and CA bridge eventually.
Brentrup Model 23, Boeh A5 #37, Gibson A Jr., Flatiron 1N, Coombe Classical flattop, Strad-O-Lin
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I know you can buy one from Martins Musikkiste: https://www.martinsmusikkiste.eu/ A very nice one man (and wife, I think) company to do business with... (I bought my Weber Yellowstone from him. No toneGard yet, though).
I am a certified Tone Gard user. I have one on my #1 and #2 mandolins. I was unpacking the car after a trip several months ago... I had used an Eastman case, and had both arms tied up with luggage when I pulled the case out in order to consolidate trips. Somehow, all the latches had sprung opened and when I swung the case out of the car, my Duff F5 flipped out. Fortunately, it landed on the concrete drive with its back side down. Protected by the Tone Gard and the clip-on Snark tuner, it suffered absolutely no damage.
While this test is not recommended, it does emphasize the protective function of the Tone Gard. Lesson learned, I always move the mandolin first, check the latches before I lift a case, and make an extra trip to unload the car! And use a newer Calton case for any trips out of town.
Yeah, I could certainly tell with my The Loar 310 that a TG would make a big difference.
In reference to my previous post, I was simply elaborating on why some folks feel that it's a pricey accessory. There's no question in my mind that it would make any mandolin sound better. I noticed a definite improvement in the bass output when I hold the mando away from my body, and a deeper "woodier" tone, closer to what I was going for when I installed the CA bridge (which actually made the mando brighter, prompting a change to a thicker, more traditional pick).
Last edited by MikeEdgerton; Aug-02-2023 at 12:48pm. Reason: Fixed quote syntax
2007 Weber Custom Elite "old wood"
2017 Ratliff R5 Custom #1148
Several nice old Fiddles
2007 Martin 000-15S 12 fret Auditorium-slot head
Deering Classic Open Back
Too many microphones
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I'm a DIY kind of guy. How high does the wire frame "tone guard " set above the middle of the instrument when it is installed?
Original ones were mild steel wire welded at the intersections
15mm arch at highest point..
new ones seem lazer cut from steel sheet in one piece..
faster to make in large numbers after greater manufacturing set up investment.
powder coat rather than spray painted is how the look like new for a long time.
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They are as essential to the mandolin/mandola as a pick is.
I have one for each instrument!
Billy
Billy Packard
Gilchrist A3, 1993
Weber Fern, 2007
Stiver Fern, 1990
Gibson 1923 A2
Gibson 1921 H1 Mandola
Numerous wonderful guitars
I have two, for each of the mandolins I have with arched backs. It kind of makes sense.
My flatties do not seem to be helped much by the ToneGard. In my experience, there is not much sound coming from the back that my belly is damping. Or at least that is my explanation.
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