Wide/Standard Nut Width: Back and Forth?

[Al Trujillo]

My Weber Gallatin is a standard width nut, but I'm smitten with a new Weber Yellowstone that has a wide nut width. I've never played a wide before and this one is several states away so I can't play it. Is it possible to own both and be able to switch from one to the other without a problem?

[pops1]

I have a 1 1/8" and 1 1/4" and can go back and forth easily, it's just getting used to each.

[sblock]

To answer the OP's question: YES, it is eminently possible to own both normal and wide-nut mandolins, and switch back and forth without any problem.

There are some folks on the MC who cannot seem to get used to normal-nut mandolins, and will insist that these are "unplayable." These folks are in the minority. Contrarywise, some folks (for example, those with exceptionally small hands) may have some difficulty going to the wide nut. But the difference in nut width is pretty tiny, typically amounting to ~1/16". Much more important, from an ergonomic perspective, is the neck profile (depth, C- or V-shape, etc)! These differences can be much greater than 1/16". The overall width of the string courses -- not the nut width, per se -- is also a factor, as is the fingerboard (radiused or flat).

But the bottom line is that the vast majority of mandolin players should be able to handle either nut width. And it doesn't take long at all to get used to switching, especially once you've gained experience with both. Then again, you may not be among the vast majority...

[Chuck Leyda]

I struggled on a wide nut. Now I went from a narrow nut F5G (which I mistakenly assumed was "standard") to a 1 3/16 wide nut. It was a beautiful Girouard mandolin that I loved but I just didn't like the feel of a wide nut. I fatigued easier and lost some speed. Well now I know but I should have done my research! I hated to part with that mando.

I would strongly suggest you try a wide nut before purchasing one!

For what it's worth people have in depth discussions about fretboard radius as well. That makes no difference whatsoever to me but it does to some folks. Wide nut does make a difference to me.

Try one first!

[pops1]

I have more trouble with the depth of the neck than the nut width. Fatigue and ease of playing different nuts is quite non existent. The depth of the neck on the other hand will get me every time.

[CES]

My narrowest mandolin is my Eastman 315, at 1 and 1/16, I believe. My widest is my RM-1 at 1 and 1/4. My main players are 1 and 1/8. I have large hands but not terribly beefy fingers. I have to alter my technique a little to keep from muting adjacent strings on the Eastman, but after a couple of minutes I adjust. I don’t think I’ll ever spend big money on anything less than 1 and 1/8 again, and I find the RM-1 very comfortable to play. So, I like wide nuts, but absolutely believe you can switch back and forth. I’m a no talent hack, and I pull it off

I agree that the string spacing, radius, and neck profile make a bigger difference, but, honestly, all of those are a little different on all my mandolins, and it doesn’t bother me that much. Sure, I have preferences, but they’re all very playable.

[darrylicshon]

I have many different nut widths, but I'm including my octaves and others, to me it takes more to be able to switch between small frets and larger ones

[Lou Giordano]

I'm sure guys with flexibility and talent would have no problem. I don't have much of either. I didn't have any trouble going from 1 1/8 to a Gibson F5L. The narrow nut made it easier for my old stiff fingers to reach. When I tried a friend's custom wide nut I couldn't reach, I found myself jamming my knuckle into the fret board to reach. I'm thinking someone with more experience would be able to adjust.

[Doc Ivory]

I really didn't take much time to adjust to the wide nut. It just took and afternoon of picking truly speaking.
Now I own both types and go back and forth seamlessly.

[ColdBeerGoCubs]

I have a 1-1/16, and a 1-3/16 right now And go between them with no issues at all. That being said, I much prefer the 1-3/16. I’ve owned several 1-1/8 also and find the 3/16 to be perfect, especially for extended playing time. Average sized hands too.

My guess is that you’ll be able to easily switch between the various widths, but after playing the wide you wont really want to. Much more comfortable.

[Jeff Hildreth]

Please define "standard" nut width.

Thank you.


PS..
This is so much fun.

[V70416]

Gimme a 1" nut and slim neck.

[jbaw]

I'm sure guys with flexibility and talent would have no problem. I don't have much of either. I didn't have any trouble going from 1 1/8 to a Gibson F5L. The narrow nut made it easier for my old stiff fingers to reach. When I tried a friend's custom wide nut I couldn't reach, I found myself jamming my knuckle into the fret board to reach. I'm thinking someone with more experience would be able to adjust.

I too have stiff old fingers and small hands but for some reason I prefer a wide nut (1 3/16) with the smaller nut I can't seem to keep my fingers off the adjoining strings. I think it is the way my fingers bend (or don't bend) at the knuckle near the tip. it is hard for me to reach the G strings on both types of nut

[Jeff Hildreth]

1" nut.. one inch.. yup that is a nut.
For a serious instrument for a serious player of an instrument for an adult, let's begin with 1 3/16ths and progress to playable at 1 1/4" or the metric equivalent.
1 3/16ths is not "wide," it is the minimum acceptable standard.
Wide is more than 1 1/4". that would be roughly 31.5 MM.
Normal and playable would be more than that.

That is unless brainwashing by manufacturers such as Eastman have led you to believe that you must adapt.. ( because they are scrimping and capitalizing on materials)

Try playing a mandolin with an adult width nut and compare it to whatever it is you are playing and see if it doesn't improve your skills.

[Luna Pick]

I'll risk rotten tomatoes here, but I wonder how much is just psychological. At the same time many players switch between guitars, mandolins, banjos etc. and hardly think about nut width.

My other two cents is that for me too narrow is worse than too wide. I'd rather stretch than cramp. !" and even 1 1/16" are pushing it.

[mandocrucian]

The issue width the optimal nut width for your finger thickness is whether your fingertips are interfering with the adjacent pair of strings.

Simple diagnostic test. Can you do this (cleanly)?

============================
====0=2=0====0=2=0====0=2=0====
==5========5=======4========hold down notes on this string
=============================

If you must lift your finger off the D strings to play the notes on the A strings, the spacing between string pairs lacks enough space for your fingertip size to allow you to incorporate the most efficient fretting habits, and you will have trouble with a clean crosspick and double/triple stops.

Maybe you prefer a staccato articulation, or don't care, or have not reached a playing level where it makes a sonic difference.

This is not a "psychological" or imagined issue. If you have ever ordered/bought expensive custom fit gloves, you are instructed to make the hand tracing of your dominant hand for the fitting. Why? It turns out that the dominant hand (for most people) is slightly larger than the other hand.

I was completely unaware of this phenomena until I went through a period of playing mandolin left-handed (as a way of putting myself back in the physical limitations of a beginner for developing better/improved beginner level instructional exercises.) I started by simply flipping my (pre-trussrod) Gibson A over to the other side, which was OK for simple single line sequences, but not for any chords. I bought a Mid-MO mandolin strung up at the factory for LH playing. This instrument had the usual, more narrow neck width, and while I could play this fine RHed, I found that when fretting with my right hand (LHed playing) my fingers were interfering with playing the adjacent strings clearly. (which did not happen when playing the Gibson A). I can't recall what the width difference was, 1/16 or maybe 3/32, but it wasn't a lot. (Note: The longer one plays and develops their digital control, the more one can micro-adjust finger placement to minimize that.)

While, playing right-handed, my 1923 F4 (truss-rodded) is just fine, but I actually developed a moderate preference for the wider neck of the 1919 A.

I've commented on this subject numerous times in the past, if you want to search the archives. (You may need to go back 7-10 years though)

In my opinion, as an instructor and someone who has played mando 45+ years, I think that beginner and low intermediate level players are better served learning on an instrument with a little more neck width, especially if they have thicker fingers.

Niles Hokkanen