Best way to secure end pin?

[Tenzin]

While putting on my strap, the endpin came out and was eaten by my couch. I've ordered a new one from StewMac but I was wondering, besides hand pressure, is there a better way to secure the endpin? I've thought of teflon tape or the tiniest drop of wood glue. I'm dangerous when I start thinking so I thought it may be best to ask!

Thanks

[Doug Brock]

About 15 years ago I had a new Martin D18GE with an end pin that wouldn't stay in place. I was told to put a drop of Elmer's glue on the pin. The little bit of glue would be enough to hold the end pin in place, but wouldn't be a major obstacle to later removing the end pin if so desired (I haven't had any desire to remove the pin on that guitar).

I don't remember who told me this about using the white glue, maybe Elderly who sold me the guitar or the UMGF that I was frequenting at the time? I just did a search and this use of white glue came up as one option multiple times. So did recommendations of using tape or string around the pin, paring ridges off of the end pin for a tighter fit, or using a light hammer to gently tap the end pin in farther.

Good luck!

[pops1]

Don't tap a tapered end pin in place with a hammer, EVER!!! You could split the end block. A drop of fingernail polish will do. The taper is fit to the hole and your new pin may have to be fitted to your mandolin. They are not all the same size and usually come oversized so they can be fit to the tapered hole.

[Gary Leonard]

I had the end pin come out of my octave mandolin while at the Northfield showroom at the Marshall Mandolin Summit. Kjell took the end pin and simply applied some super glue on it to build up the thickness a bit, let it dry, and friction fit it.

[sunburst]

Best to have a pin that fits. That means, the taper of the pin and the hole match exactly, both are nearly perfectly round, and the pin does not go in absolutely all the way so there is some room for adjustment according to humidity-induced changes in size. Best not to use any kind of glue. Sooner or later, some repairman will have to remove the pin and if it is glued that involves drilling and reaming. Also, if things swell from high humidity the pin can get too tight with no good way to relieve the tightness.
I tend to pull end pins out and put them back in occasionally to be sure that the fit is snug but not so tight as to cause danger of splitting the end block. Changes in relative humidity are often the cause of loose end pins, but also the cause of overly tight end pins. By removing and replacing the pin occasionally I can observe the fit and maintain it as a good fit and help prevent the pin from falling out or from getting to tight.
For a pin that will not stay in well after being installed, best to get a new pin that fits. Sometimes that just means a slightly bigger end pin, but it often means taking the instrument to a luthier who has the proper tools for shaping the pin and reaming the tapered hole as needed.

[j. condino]

I'll say it- tapered endpins are stupid.

They are a leftover from the violin world where its primary function is an anchor for the tailwire and tailpiece. String tension keeps them locked in place and they almost never come out. On a mandolin with no tension, they are a lifelong pain in the a$$ and responsible for thousands of damaged instruments every year when they come loose at the wrong moment.

On my personal instruments, I always use a screw based strap button connected through one of the holes on the bottom of the tailpiece, or the endpin jack from the pickup......

[40bpm]

Winter and low humidity and end-pins start coming out of the woodwork .

Raise the humidity or wrap painters tape around the pin. Or any of the other great suggestions above.

Largely, it's a Winter occurrence. Expect it, plan for it.

[dan in va]

Not a builder, but do have a reason for my preference. The possibility of a mandolin striking the endpin and splitting the block is out there...not uncommon with fiddles. Max Girouard built a very nice mandola for me a few years ago with a strap button instead of the endpin, and there are others who have adopted this as well. In fact, "Bryce" is doing some neck reshaping on the Stanley and also redrilled the hole, plugged it, and installed a strap button there. The peace of mind is worth it, and i won't have to fiddle with the endpin anymore. All future builds will not have the tapered endpin.

i'm a little curious why the tradition of the tapered endpin continues. i see it as a potential liability while the strap button as an improvement that increases building efficiency some and is more user friendly. Somewhat like the adjustable bridge.

[EdHanrahan]

Several months back, did the nail polish thing on my D-35 (apply, let it dry a few hours, press). Has held just fine.

... a little curious why the tradition of the tapered endpin continues.

For the same reason that so much related to stringed instruments is so very traditional. (Please forgive the obscenity but...) If it wasn't, the whole world would be playing Stratocasters!

[MikeEdgerton]

Weber used to use this little contraption. All the parts are available as standard hardware parts (Ok, that screw might be a banjo resonator screw). You might not find them all at a big box store. Beyond that I've always liked Hans Bretrups method for making sure that nothing awful happens when the pin does pull out.

[MikeEdgerton]

I had the end pin come out of my octave mandolin while at the Northfield showroom at the Marshall Mandolin Summit. Kjell took the end pin and simply applied some super glue on it to build up the thickness a bit, let it dry, and friction fit it.

I did that on a Martin guitar a few years back. Unfortunately it was dry to the touch but not dry. That thing will never come out easily. That's my bad. If you're going to do this let it dry a long time.

[j. condino]

".....If it wasn't, the whole world would be playing Stratocasters!...."

HELLO- the whole world DOES play stratocasters, millions and millions and millions of them.....

[ferrousgeek]

I had the end pin come out of my octave mandolin while at the Northfield showroom at the Marshall Mandolin Summit. Kjell took the end pin and simply applied some super glue on it to build up the thickness a bit, let it dry, and friction fit it.

My preferred method.

[allenhopkins]

I've done the same with Duco cement. Left the pin out to dry for 24+ hours, so it had no chance (I think, with the "thinking" caveats expressed by the OP) of retaining the glue's adhesive properties.

Seems to work; I can take the pin out with a bit of a tug, but it seems snugly seated. I've also seen recommendations of painter's or "masking" tape as a method of increasing the pin's diameter.

Also concur that the tapered end pin on a mandolin -- or guitar -- is an artifact of violin construction, probably related to Orville G's veneration of the violin as "king of instruments," and applying violin-making principles and techniques to mandolin manufacture. Bowl-backs don't have end pins, and that's the pre-Gibson "standard" for mandolin construction. End pins are useful for attaching straps, but that function could be performed by a screwed strap button.

I understand that there are some limited opportunities to access the instrument's interior through the end pin hole, for certain repairs etc. That may be a reason to retain the design...? Otherwise, just tradition...?

[j. condino]

You could always use the Pet Metheny method:

-when your endpin fails, grab your old toothbrush out of your pocket and mash it and the strap in the tailpiece with some old duct tape for 25 years....

[MikeEdgerton]

You could always use the Pet Metheny method:

-when your endpin fails, grab your old toothbrush out of your pocket and mash it and the strap in the tailpiece with some old duct tape for 25 years....

That is excellent!