Adjustment for Eastman Tuning Pegs

[imyorehuckleberry]

I just got an Eastman MD505CC/n. It is beautiful, however I'm having issues with the tuning pegs. I don't know if I need to adjust them somehow, but they are difficult. They are really tight when tightening the string to make it sharper - to the point where it takes forever to get where you want to go - but it skips over the tuned point. Then they are REALLY loose when loosening the string, where it almost immediately drops WAY out of tune. It is like they slip when loosening the string. I had heard that Eastman tuners for the lowest models are no good, but heard that the higher models were better. These are supposed to be Pingwell RM-1583N-26A. Is there an adjustment I can do to make these easier to use? Honestly, I'd rather have the tuners from my cheapo Rogue RM-100A. I'm pretty new to Mandolin, so I don't want to contact Eastman until I know there is an issue. Thanks for your help!

[Bill Kammerzell]

Is it brand new? That just doesn't sound correct at all. The last mandolin I had that was doing what you described had cheap, poorly installed (not seated correctly) tuners. Especially the part about suddenly going past the tuning point. I finally replaced the tuners with Grovers and made sure they were seated properly. Solved the problem. It was a new build too, and I've always regretted just not sending it back. I know the problem of being new to playing, and not being certain whether it is an issue or not. In my case the builder tried to B.S. me. It won't happen again. Anyway, unless you hear something else from someone, I'd be calling whoever sold it to me and might consider returning it.

[Trich]

If I'm understanding what you're saying correctly, the issue is in the way the nut is cut. Most tuning issues with instruments is not the tuners, although that is what most people tend to think. A good setup will likely take care of the issue.

[colorado_al]

If I'm understanding what you're saying correctly, the issue is in the way the nut is cut. Most tuning issues with instruments is not the tuners, although that is what most people tend to think. A good setup will likely take care of the issue.

Agreed. Sounds like the strings are binding in the nut slots. You might be able to get it working better by just lubricating the slots by drawing in them with a pencil (after loosening the strings enough that you can slip them out of the slot). If that doesn't fix it, bring it to a good stringed instrument repair person and get them to fix the nut slots.

[Doug Brock]

The immediate drop in pitch when loosening does sound like the strings are binding in the nut. I got an MD315 in December and it had similar issues with some stiff tuners and strings binding in the nut. Some folks here replace the Eastman tuners with something like a Grover 309, but I first followed advice from this forum and bought Tri-Flow lubricant for the gears, a peg winder sized for the smaller mandolin buttons so I can easily give the tuners a bunch of extra spins during string changes, and used graphite from a mechanical pencil in the nut slots. After a couple of string changes, the tuning pegs are fine and I'm not thinking about them anymore (until the next string change, in which I do the same exercising with the peg winder and graphite). I might eventually put on some Rubner tuners with black knobs just because I like the look, but not because I'm feeling unhappy with the existing tuning machines.)

By the way, I have heard complaints about tight tuning machines from Collings owners, too, so it's hard to know how much is the tuning machine and how much is installation. Reportedly, minor differences in installation can be significant for a mandolin tuning machine.

In reference to the Rogue mandolins, I bought a couple for my kids (all out of college now, so not YOUNG kids, lol) and I was surprised how easily the tuning machines turned. There is obviously a lot more mechanical slop than with my Eastman tuners, but the Rogues are easier to turn. I wonder how much can be attributed to the Rogue's larger tuning machine buttons. Definitely easier to get more torque with the big buttons.

[Wrnchbndr]

Agreed, If you are tuning up in pitch and all of the sudden there is an instantaneous jump increase in pitch, your strings are binding in the nut slots. Often you'll hear an accompanying "Ping" or short "squeek". While watching an electronic tuner, the increase and the decrease of pitch should be smooth and easy to control. Its best practice to always tune up to pitch but a healthy tuning machine and a properly shaped nut slot should result in full control of the pitch with the smallest rotation of the tuner either way.

Even the cheapest tuners can work well but defective tuners do happen. Your tuners should not be difficult to turn. I have found defective tuners on new instruments but only ever one at a time.

[Jim DeSalvio]

I agree with all of the advice above. I will add, however, that in general, even if everything is perfect, the tuners used by Eastman can be difficult to turn.

They seem to get better over time, and I do use Tri Flow on them.

[Glassweb]

Try loosening the small, phillips-head screws that go into the tuner buttons. You can actually adjust the resistance of the tuners by tightening or loosening these screws.

Worked for me! You can also back off on the flathead screw that goes into the gear under the worm... that will make a difference as well. Good luck!

[HoGo]

Try loosening the small, phillips-head screws that go into the tuner buttons. You can actually adjust the resistance of the tuners by tightening or loosening these screws.

These screws are there only to hold the button on shaft, loosening is good way to lose them..

You can also back off on the flathead screw that goes into the gear under the worm... that will make a difference as well. Good luck!

Loosening these results in gear wheel loose on the shaft. If this works then you likely have tuners mounted improperly (wrong hole distances or bad angle of holes etc.) as this relieves binding od the cog against the plate if post is forced out of square position by mounting to headstock. Loosening will hide the symptoms but the disease will eventually killl your tuners (misaligned gears will likely wear prematurely) Properly installed good machines should work equally well with all screws tightened.