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Thread: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

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    Default Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    I purchased a beginner mandolin a few months ago and am starting to try to learn on it and have noticed it seems that I get more buzzing than I would like and would appreciate a little feedback. I will include settings that I am able to measure.
    12 Fret String height G - .060"
    12 Fret String height E - .050"
    Neck relief at 7 fret - G- .003"
    1st Fret string height -G - .030"
    1st Fret string height - E- .017"

    I was not sure and was wondering what the standard (ball park) measurement should be for the relief on most mandolins? I had seen where some people say the measurements at the 12th fret were about what I have. I guess I will also need to make a straight edge to check the neck straightness in case I need to level the frets just in case any of the frets are a little high. I presume on one of these they do not have to be off much to create buzzing. Thanks for any info.
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    Frank
    New Mexico

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    Registered User bennyb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    While you're waiting: here's Frank Ford's page on setting action at the nut. My mandolin is approx .011" G string and .006" E string at the first fret. I'm using medium Daddios. So... your action seems quite high at the first fret, but "ideal"(according to many) at the 12th. The buzzing could be caused by ....(too many to mention). But, since you've got "low" action at the 12th, try raising the bridge so you've got .070" and .060" at the 12th, and see if that solves the issue.

    benny

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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    Quote Originally Posted by bennyb View Post
    While you're waiting: here's Frank Ford's page on setting action at the nut. My mandolin is approx .011" G string and .006" E string at the first fret. I'm using medium Daddios. So... your action seems quite high at the first fret, but "ideal"(according to many) at the 12th. The buzzing could be caused by ....(too many to mention). But, since you've got "low" action at the 12th, try raising the bridge so you've got .070" and .060" at the 12th, and see if that solves the issue.

    benny
    Thank you Benny. I agree about the high action at the first fret. That nut was not addressed properly at all. I will check out that link you sent. I have found out that I have a few high frets so I am going to make a notched straight edge tomorrow so that I can use it to set neck straightness prior to leveling all frets. It should not take too much. I also think I will change my strings to a set of D'Addario J74 strings(medium) that I got years ago from Roland White. Then make all the adjustments on the nut. I think after doing these things I might be able to get rid of the problems. Do you put any relief on your mandolins or do you just keep the neck perfectly straight?
    Thanks,
    Frank

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    Registered User bennyb's Avatar
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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    TBH, I don't usually measure relief, but since you asked: action at the first fret(above), G string at the 12th .075", relief(at 7th) .005"

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    Registered User Greg Mirken's Avatar
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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    You don’t need a notched straightedge. It’s the frets you care about, not the board. A machinist’s rule will work perfectly.
    Shade Tree Fretted Instrument Repair, retired
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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    Quote Originally Posted by Greg Mirken View Post
    You don’t need a notched straightedge. It’s the frets you care about, not the board. A machinist’s rule will work perfectly.
    The only problem with that is that if you have any high frets they interfere with the intended objective. By having a notched rule you are able to make sure the neck is first straight . Then if there are high frets you are able to file them down with your straight file beam.

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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    I've been leveling frets for decades, I don't have a notched straight edge. Leveling the frets will accommodate for the uneven board, most are not flat. You would have to have a fret that was way high to not be able to flatten the neck with the truss rod before leveling using just a good straight edge. Just get it as flat as you can and the leveling will do the rest.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    First, get Rob Meldrum's free eBook. Follow those instructions. Just do a search and you'll find how to contact him.

    I have found that the cheaper the mandolin, the more it can benefit from a fret level. The going rate where I live ( expensive urban area) is $150 for a level and crown and a setup. Yes, more than you'd want to pay for an inexpensive instrument. You can make a sanding beam from a short level if you have one laying around, but I'd want you to get a machineist's straightedge. You can crown frets with sandpaper, but I wouldn't on mandolin as the frets are very close up the fret board. So you could easily spend $150 on a straight edge, sanding beam, and fret files, but then you'd be set.

    I bought my Michael Kelly as a test bed just for this kind of thing so I'd have some practice. It needed more fret leveling than any other instrument I'd ever done.
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    Default Re: Set Up on an Ibanez MS-10

    Quote Originally Posted by Br1ck View Post
    First, get Rob Meldrum's free eBook. Follow those instructions. Just do a search and you'll find how to contact him.

    I have found that the cheaper the mandolin, the more it can benefit from a fret level. The going rate where I live ( expensive urban area) is $150 for a level and crown and a setup. Yes, more than you'd want to pay for an inexpensive instrument. You can make a sanding beam from a short level if you have one laying around, but I'd want you to get a machineist's straightedge. You can crown frets with sandpaper, but I wouldn't on mandolin as the frets are very close up the fret board. So you could easily spend $150 on a straight edge, sanding beam, and fret files, but then you'd be set.

    I bought my Michael Kelly as a test bed just for this kind of thing so I'd have some practice. It needed more fret leveling than any other instrument I'd ever done.
    Thanks for the info. Yes, I have Rob Meldrum's e-book and will probably set mine up about the same way. Since I have all the tools I do not have to worry about buying any. I think the most expensive was a luthier leveling sanding beam for about $25. I made my rockers, notched straight edge. After checking it this morning the neck was really straight with the truss rod in a neutral position basically loose. If I need to I can always tighten it if I change to medium strings. I did find about six frets that were just a hair high probably due the fret board drying. That is the way it came to me. I was able to lightly tap them down and all are now level. I think after putting on new strings I will see how the action ends up and adjust a little to get the 12th fret string height correct and then make sure all the slots are cut evenly for each pair of strings at the nut as well as getting the G,D & A strings to the correct height. Have a great day.
    Frank

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