Well Lighter strings could allow for lower action but string buzz can also be caused by if the bridge collapsed. Electric Mandolins have Magnetic Pickups which allow for lighter strings & lower action because the magnets limit their movement.
If the magnets limit the strings movement they are pulling the string out of tune. Magnetic pickups allow for lighter strings because you don't have to drive the top or play hard for volume, you simply turn the volume up.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
As a relatively new player myself, in just three months my preferences for string weight and height have changed already. Despite prefering low action and light strings on my guitars forever, I'm having a new nut cut for my newest mando to actually raise the action, and I'm surprised surprised that I prefer. 11s over .10s in string guage.
No substitute for trial and error to find your own sweet spot.
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FWIW -- I'm just starting out, but upgraded my Mandolin from a Troublesome Creek Honeybee to a Northfield A5 Special. (Yeah, I took a leap of faith). I just did a cleaning and string change to Ernie Ball Earthwood Mediums. I found that they have a great sound and a bit easier to play than the D'Addario's J74 which came with the mandolin. I like a bit more mellow sound. I also found that the thinner pick can "brighten" the sound somewhat IMHO.
I've since switched to Thomastik Precision Strings which have roughly half as much tension because they're designed in such a way
I actually converted the Headstock from a Solid to a Slotted Headstock & I cranked its angle down to 90 degrees (like a lute) which puts the strings at a sharper angle over the nut so I was able to get away w/ lighter strings & lower action.
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The scale length of a Mandolin is usually 13 inches but it varies from model to model. A longer scale length allows for lighter strings because it compensates for the reduced volume by pulling them a bit tighter than normally.
Jake Wildwood has come across some Resonator Mandolins which have a Metal (or wooden) Body & a metal cone. These resonator Mandolins are rather loud because instead of using heavier gauge strings, they've stuck to lighter gauge strings but extended the scale length by 2 inches from 13 inches to 15 inches, so yeah a longer scale length does allow for lighter strings. The 15 in. scale however, if this was made by the specs of bowlback mandolins in the early 1900s, would've meant it's technically a small mandola. Because of the longer scale length, Jake Wildwood recommends tuning this Mandolin down a couple of steps from GDAE Tuning so for example he tuned down a Minor Third to EBF#C# aka Yank Rachel Tuning.
I think it better to use the gage of strings best for the instrument at hand and the sound you want, and get your hand used to it. No concessions for the beginner
I have a Stiver two pointer and my understanding is that it is designed around D'Addario J75. So thats it. Also I have J75 on my resonator. Other than those two I use J74 as a standard go to, lacking any information to the contrary.
In my opinion here are a few mandolins for beginners from McNeela Music:
McNeela Irish Mandolin: This mandolin is a great choice for beginners because it is affordable and easy to play. It has a clear, bright tone that is perfect for playing traditional Irish music.
McNeela Premium A-Style Mandolin with F-holes: This mandolin is a step up from the McNeela Irish Mandolin and offers a wider range of tones. It is perfect for players who want to explore different styles of music.
McNeela Premium F-Style Mandolin: This mandolin is the most advanced model from McNeela Music and offers the best possible sound quality. It is perfect for experienced players who want the best possible instrument.
All of these mandolins come with a free gig bag and a set of strings, so you have everything you need to start playing right away.
Lighter Gauge strings are easier for the left hand but you need to increase the break angle (by getting an Allen Terminator Tailpiece) to get more volume.
Last edited by s11141827; Jul-10-2023 at 9:15am. Reason: Fine tuning needed
I have light strings (10-36) on two of my mandolins, it's still loud with no changes to the instrument. I think it depends on the instrument.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
That makes all the sense in the world, Dave, it had been mentioned early on that your setup probably needed attention. I think it’s difficult for a newbie to grasp what a truly low action actually is. And no, it is not only budget instruments that benefit from a good setup! “Good” factory or retailer setups are seldom low enough for my liking. Once the bridge is set, if the string traveling from the nut to the first fret is significantly greater than the same string traveling from first fret to second fret, I’m unhappy with the action at the nut.
Thanks for updating your thread.
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I have several top quality mandolins, mostly USA made, the first thing I do with a new instrument is to make sure it's set up properly.
Dave H
Eastman 615 mandola
2011 Weber Bitteroot A5
2012 Weber Bitteroot F5
Eastman MD 915V
Gibson F9
2016 Capek ' Bob ' standard scale tenor banjo
Ibanez Artist 5 string
2001 Paul Shippey oval hole
I modified one of my mandolins to sound good w/ ultra-light strings (110R 7.5-28 Gauge) because I actually shaved the soundboard down. I had to cut off the soundboard, shave the braces down, reglue it, & put on the 110R ultra-light strings.
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Lighter gauge strings are easier to play but you have to cut the braces down to compensate for their reduced tension.
My mandolin used to be built for heavy gauge strings but I've converted it to work w/ really light gauge strings by shaving the braces down to only 3/32 of an inch. Instead of using heavy gauge strings, why not use really light gauge strings but shave the braces down by ungluing the top, shaving the braces down, regluing it, & restringing w/ the ultra-light strings?
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