Weber factory tuner I.D. wanted / Adjustment question

[Sperry]

Hello!

By the time I acquired this 02/2016 Rawhide, its build sheet was lost. Both Weber and the vendor had similar responses. So I turn to you.

Can you identify the brand and possibly model of the machine heads?

One of the A tuners seems sticky instead of smoooooth. I'm hoping to avoid a full tear-down as detailed here: http://www.lutherie.net/tuner.maintenance.html

It's first string change is coming up (possibly the second since shipped to the seller). Maybe just working the tuner a few dozen dozen turns will smooth it out? The issue presents itself only when fine-tuning up into the note. On those rare occasions I bother tuning.

Thank you!

[HonketyHank]

I have the same tuners on my 2012 Rawhide. They look like Grover 309CN to me. And I have a set of worm-over 309 C's on another mando - the back plate is identical except it is flipped top to bottom.

[Sperry]

Thanks, Hank. Have you ever thought of upgrading the tuners, or do they work for your purposes 99% of the time?

[HonketyHank]

I am quite happy with them; haven't ever thought about upgrading.

[MikeEdgerton]

I'd be looking to make sure the string wasn't binding in the nut slot before I'd start messing with the tuners.

[Sperry]

Inappropriate comment removed at request of individual that posted.

[Bob Clark]

Hey Sperry,

If you don't mind my asking, how did you take those super clear macro photos? Good shots!

[Sperry]

You're too kind!

Natural lighting, always. Indirect morning sunlight. Then crop.

[Sperry]

I'd be looking to make sure the string wasn't binding in the nut slot before I'd start messing with the tuners.

Thanks, Mike. That was also suggested by the seller. Changing the string is the first thing they would do.

And because even my deficient ears could tell the strings were approaching dead, I finally put on new strings. Went with John Pearse 2150M phosphor bronze this time. The string slot seems adequate. It was 40 minutes well spent.

While the string were off I used a string winder to work that particular machine tuner. With the new strings under tension, the #3 moves more smoothly. Before my next string change, I'll work the tuner further while under tension.

This Jack East winder works well without hitting the f-style headstock although I first sanded a couple of millimeters off the height of the winder, making the box depth a little less deep. Also I dressed the edges. The buttons seem to be 15mm x 8mm x 15mm; I'll ask Jack about reworking the winder dimensions for my next one.

[MikeEdgerton]

I use the often imitated never equaled JOP string winder. Made from a Jim Dunlop winder.

If you don't want to trim the end simply put some baking soda into the pocket and drop in a few drops of superglue and give it time (overnight is good) to dry. That way the pocket isn't as deep.

[Dave Sheets]

The site below has a helpful discussion of tuner issues, the lubrication process discussed was really effective for me.

http://www.lutherie.net/tuner.maintenance.html