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Thread: string height - huge difference after using depth guage

  1. #1

    Default string height - huge difference after using depth guage

    I'm on a "figure out cheap solutions" kick so please humor me.

    After getting my backup mando just right, I had my nice mando sitting in its case unused for a while. I would get a trace of tendonitis every time I played it, and I blamed it on the fret height - my frets which are lower than they used to be because they had been sanded down by a luthier to remove fret grooves (but I had been told the frets are but not low enough to require new frets). Or alternatively, I thought that there was a problem with neck bow, or (even worse) that there might be something about the neck dimensions for Derrington-era Gibsons and Flatirons that was simply incompatible with my physiology....

    The issue is that I was having to put a huge amount of pressure to make the strings have contact with the frets. After 30 minutes of playing, I would have tendon strain for several days. So I had been playing only my backup mando for a while, waiting for the time and $ to take in my Flatiron for some serious changes/work.


    But after browsing through Robert Meldrup's setup book again yesterday, I took an Empire stainless steel ruler guage and measured the string height at the 12th fret and compared it to Meldrup's recommended height. Hmmm... the E string was fine, but the G string was roughly twice the recommended height. After adjusting the thumbscrew pin on the west end of the bridge (peghead / tuners being north), it now plays like a different instrument. No tendon strain when I play, and it is easier to play consistently because I am not having to adjust for string height when moving from the G string to the E string.

    What a cheap solution! I had bought my guage depth ruler for something in the range of $10 from a hardware store, but if anyone wants to get one you are in luck - I just checked and Amazon sells Empire slide ruler depth guages for $2.

  2. #2
    Registered User Erin M's Avatar
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    Default Re: string height - huge difference after using depth guage

    Awesome - glad you were able to get that sorted out. I'm very fortunate to have a friend who is a sort of "part time" luthier and guitar tech among many other talents and I've learned a heck of a lot from him over the years. Getting your action just right is a personal thing and some shops just don't get it even close.

    From what I've learned in my brief experience with mandolin thus far is the 12th fret height can be conveniently measured with a 1.14mm pick as a feeler gauge. If I slip it under the strings at the 12th fret, both E and G sides, it just kind of sits there, almost wants to fall out, that's the height that seems to work best for me. It holds my Bluechip CT55 solidly in there (just a bit thicker than 1.14mm). Mind you, this suits MY fingers and playing style - your mileage may vary.

    I've had tendinitis problems before with bass - my upright has an adjustable bridge, so that makes things easier, but early on, I didn't realize the importance of having things setup right, and just how small that adjustment can be. My teacher at the time said it was fine, but... for me, it wasn't.

    It's a tough balance between getting good volume and sound projection and having action that's low enough that you're not working too hard - everything is a compromise. But consistency across the instrument is very important. If you have a radiused fingerboard, then the strings should absolutely follow that radius. If you measure 1.14mm on the G, then it should ideally be the same on the E as well as the D and A. (One bizarre exception is my 6 string electric bass: that low B string is just too darn floppy to be able to follow the radius perfectly, so it needs to sit just a hair higher).
    "Flow, river flow. Let your waters wash down, take me from this road, to some other town." - Roger McGuinn

  3. #3

    Default Re: string height - huge difference after using depth guage

    Agree - it's a tough balance. The guitar is a lot more forgiving but the mandolin is compact, so small imbalances have a huge impact.

  4. #4

    Default Re: string height - huge difference after using depth guage

    I’m playing a much nicer instrument than I started on, and can use a lot lower action now. I set it so chop chords don’t sound buzzy. It was .040” the last time I measured it, but I’ve raised it a little since, but it’s still well below .050”.

    My Eastman was a little over .060”, and needed EJ75s to sound good. My Northfield with EJ74s sings with the low action.
    Soliver arm rested and Tone-Garded Northfield Model M with D’Addario NB 11.5-41, picked with a Wegen Bluegrass 1.4

  5. #5
    Registered User mandolin breeze's Avatar
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    Default Re: string height - huge difference after using depth guage

    I've slowly been building up my skills related to setup, etc. I totally agree with the use of a feeler gauge for accurate measurements. Especially true at the nut end. Rob's e-book states an ideal A & E 1st fret height of 0.011". That's a very tiny distance and simply no way to accurately eyeball or pick measurement. Even with a feeler gauge, it takes extreme care and diligence to be precise. The angle of the feeler gauge itself must be held exactly perpendicular to the fret and the fredboard or it will lift the string prematurely. A magnifying glass or jeweler's glasses is a big help too. I personally set the feeler gauge to a couple thousands more than the desired height and watch for the string to just be moved or lifted at the 2nd fret and stop there. Bottom line, proper setup on a mando is critical and the positive results can really be felt and heard.

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