Re: string height - huge difference after using depth guage
Awesome - glad you were able to get that sorted out. I'm very fortunate to have a friend who is a sort of "part time" luthier and guitar tech among many other talents and I've learned a heck of a lot from him over the years. Getting your action just right is a personal thing and some shops just don't get it even close.
From what I've learned in my brief experience with mandolin thus far is the 12th fret height can be conveniently measured with a 1.14mm pick as a feeler gauge. If I slip it under the strings at the 12th fret, both E and G sides, it just kind of sits there, almost wants to fall out, that's the height that seems to work best for me. It holds my Bluechip CT55 solidly in there (just a bit thicker than 1.14mm). Mind you, this suits MY fingers and playing style - your mileage may vary.
I've had tendinitis problems before with bass - my upright has an adjustable bridge, so that makes things easier, but early on, I didn't realize the importance of having things setup right, and just how small that adjustment can be. My teacher at the time said it was fine, but... for me, it wasn't.
It's a tough balance between getting good volume and sound projection and having action that's low enough that you're not working too hard - everything is a compromise. But consistency across the instrument is very important. If you have a radiused fingerboard, then the strings should absolutely follow that radius. If you measure 1.14mm on the G, then it should ideally be the same on the E as well as the D and A. (One bizarre exception is my 6 string electric bass: that low B string is just too darn floppy to be able to follow the radius perfectly, so it needs to sit just a hair higher).
"Flow, river flow. Let your waters wash down, take me from this road, to some other town." - Roger McGuinn
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