Re: Hello! I'm new here and my name is...
You've got some fairly serious "dishing" of the top, almost certainly from too-high-tension strings, possibly from failure of an internal brace. Mike E's right to recommend loosening the strings immediately, and observing to what extent the top returns to side-to-side flatness. Bowl-back bridges are longer, lower, and much less "sturdy," raised maybe a quarter to 3/8 inch above the top at the saddle. Your bridge is higher, to compensate for the top sinkage, and seems designed to concentrate the string tension in the center of the top, which makes the "dishing" worse.
Good news is that it's possible to have a bridge made that distributes the tension better, even if you can't entirely return the top to latitudinal flatness. I have an 1890's Washburn bowl-back mandola with an extensively repaired and somewhat "dished" top, and it's been made playable by installing a bridge that distributes the tension more widely, and is slightly convex on the bottom to properly fit the top's curvature.
I'd also recommend "get thee to a luthiery," or at least a really good repair shop that has handled bowl-backs in the past. They're not found everywhere, but if you look, there may be one close enough to serve you. My experience is that my "go-to" repair person ducks out the back door when I walk in with a bowl-back, but he can be coaxed to work on them. You need to check out the bracing, see if it has come loose, or just deformed under the string tension. Whatever you do, get really extra-light strings for your L & H. It is a nice-looking instrument.
Allen Hopkins
Gibsn: '54 F5 3pt F2 A-N Custm K1 m'cello
Natl Triolian Dobro mando
Victoria b-back Merrill alumnm b-back
H-O mandolinetto
Stradolin Vega banjolin
Sobell'dola Washburn b-back'dola
Eastmn: 615'dola 805 m'cello
Flatiron 3K OM
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