Recording King ROST-7-TS - part 1

[Verne Andru]

FWIW I've setup tons of guitars and mandolins and it has always been a back and forth. It takes time for everything to settle in so expect to keep adjusting for 6-9 months - longer if you live in a place with big weather swings.

I can't wait to get my hands on one to try out. Enjoy!

[shaundeane]

after the mentioned cranks on the truss rod, the overnight hang on a hook seemed to do the trick for me...new strings and a set of pins. if you ever change out the tuners, you will find the originals are undersized and a reamer is needed. the finish on the peg head is very fragile. I agree...it's a pretty good buy for the price.

John - I am planning to replace the tuners. How did you get the old ones off? Man those are small screws! I think they're Philips heads but could be Allens. I need a magnifying glass!

[kurth83]

Interesting thread. Only contribution I can make is I like a wound A (in GDAE) on a tenor, it sounds a lot better to me than a PS A when strumming chords.

Means I have to buy custom strings...

[shaundeane]

Interesting thread. Only contribution I can make is I like a wound A (in GDAE) on a tenor, it sounds a lot better to me than a PS A when strumming chords.

Means I have to buy custom strings...

I agree - the Curt Mangan strings I mentioned have a wound A

[sounds_good]

John - I am planning to replace the tuners. How did you get the old ones off? Man those are small screws! I think they're Philips heads but could be Allens. I need a magnifying glass!

For those still wondering the screws in the back of the tuners are #1 Philips.

[shaundeane]

For those still wondering the screws in the back of the tuners are #1 Philips.

Thank you!. I did determine they were Philips but knowing they are #1, I'll get a better screwdriver at the hardware store tomorrow. Don't want to strip them. Thank you again.

[shaundeane]

after the mentioned cranks on the truss rod, the overnight hang on a hook seemed to do the trick for me...new strings and a set of pins. if you ever change out the tuners, you will find the originals are undersized and a reamer is needed. the finish on the peg head is very fragile. I agree...it's a pretty good buy for the price.

That's good information, thank you. I have the new tuners and the reamer as well as bridge pins. Just go slow with the reamer, I assume? And also, another assumption is to ream to the depth of the bushing? Seems obvious but always good to have any pro tips. :-)

[shaundeane]

Never mind, got them installed. Very easy. 20 minute job. Thanks for the inspiration.

[shaundeane]

Checking it on my favorite string tension calculator, a .009 would be just fine. A .0095 might not break as often (my .009s historically break because of mechanical issues like 6 year olds with vigorous strumming action, rather than string tension.)





FWIW, here it is with a .010 for the A and a .024 for the G - that tension might be too much for the G. I usually try to keep things at around 20lbs/string. Your .010 is currently at 23lbs, so I personally think it'll feel better if you drop it to a .009.

Hello - expecting to receive a new Ibanez Parlor tenor today. First one was damaged in shipping. They ship CGDA and I know that I will definitely want to try GDAE. My experience moving to heavier strings on Tenors has been good. The editor mentioned here is very useful (thank you) and as I play with possibilities on a 22.75" scale, I'm ending up with these GDAE gauges: 46, 32, 22, 12 and the editor indicates tension of 87.863 points, which I believe is acceptable? I'd prefer not to rip the bridge off :-)

[sounds_good]

I noticed a question about string spacing. I don't have a basis
for comparison, but I measured this tenor guitar in case someone
looks here.

Recording King ROST-7-TS

nut width = 1+1/4 inch = 32 mm
string spacing at nut = 1/3 inch = 8.3 mm
string spacing at bridge = 1/2 inch = 12.5 mm