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Thread: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

  1. #1

    Default peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Hi Folks.... I know very little about mandolins but I do know violin restoration... so looking for your advice... 10 years ago I picked up a Peate humpback mandolin for $10 and it has been hanging in my shop ever since. Now, My adult son wants it for play and looks like I need to start the restoration, and all of it I can handle ( I think ) except...
    There is a plastic(?) binding on the edge of the fingerboard, both sides, and in places it is pulling away. what type of glue would work to hold it after clamping.
    My first preference would be hot hide glue, but I don't know what was the likely glue originally used. I would not relish the idea to remove all of the binding... clean it up and reglue... but if necessary...
    Any suggestions?
    Super thanks!... Mat
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  2. #2
    Teacher, repair person
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    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Hot hide glue is the least invasive, and I've used it occasionally for a loose spot, but it does not develop a particularly strong bond with plastics. If there is no stress on the binding, it might or might not hold for a long time. The same would be true with Titebond Original.

    Most of the glues that provide a good bond between plastic and wood are invasive to finishes, so you have to use them very carefully. Two of these glues are Duco Cement and CA glue.

    An alternative I have used is Wilson Art melamine glue, which is made for bonding non-porous materials to wood. Cabinet makers use it to attach Formica to plywood countertops. It is non-invasive to finishes. Its bonding strength is not as high as the plastic cements or super-glues [if the super-glue is acting right], but it is a lot friendlier to use. I don't know anyone else who uses it for instrument, so it is unproven, but I prefer the risk of a later do-over to the risk of messing up a finish.

    Whatever you use, I would just glue the loose spots and avoid removing the binding completely unless there is a compelling reason to do otherwise.

  3. #3
    Adrian Minarovic
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    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Wood glues may work well in restoration where old piece of removed binding is glued back ans has lots of fibers still on it (intentinally left there - they will also hels slign the binding towards the original edge). Otherwise somewhat diluted duco or model makers plastic glue works well. But for these small separations thin CA glue is my go to item. If you fear damage to finish you can mask side of the neck before application. if the binding piece fits well and can be clamped tight with just finger pressure especially tight against neck below, I would just hold it and apply small drop on the fingerboard surface so it can wick into the separation. I would loosen my hold a tiny bit so it sucks in and apply pressure again so any squeeze out stays on the fingerboard. Hold it for a minute or so and clean residue from fingerboard surface with scraper or razor blade. If any small amount wicked from under the binding you can crefully scrape it away with razor blade or just sand it slowly with tiny block with 800 or so grit paper, watching not to cut into surrounding finish then buff or polish and done.
    If you don't manage to glue it all in one go just apply next drop to another area and hold it again. Thin CA will find any open gap, even hardly visible.
    Adrian

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  5. #4
    Registered User
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    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Another option is acetone which softens most binding material to the point that it will stick. Some rubber bands and a splint of wood can hold it in place.

  6. #5

    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Depending on the age the original solvent was either straight acetone applied with a brush in copious amounts, or a glue made from gelled acetone. I've used acetone, applied with a loop or an eyedropper, to refix plastic or celluloid (which this probably is) binding. Now, as a preference, I use thin CA (Krazy) glue. Ultra-thin will wick into any space, but tends to spread all over. Gelled CA (thick) you need to actually get into where you want it.

  7. #6
    Teacher, repair person
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    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Acetone is nice and friendly for construction, but not so friendly for repairs. Like the cements and CA, it is invasive to many finishes.

  8. #7

    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Thanks everyone for your expert advice...
    Looking closely, it seems there are some slivers on the bottom edge that have stayed with the binding, so acetone is out and hot hide glue will not be invasive...so I'll try that.
    I never know what I don't know, so it's always nice to get others' opinions ... especially when they are experts!
    Thanks again & stay safe!.... Cheers, Mat

  9. #8
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    A piece of my 1923 Gibson's fretboard grained ivoroid binding fell off and I re-glued it in about 1 minute with CA. I was careful to apply it only to the places it needed to be glued to and also to avoid my fingers. It worked fine in minutes.

    I always thought that that was the optimal glue to use for that purpose. Nice to hear about other alternatives but I have a feeling that this mandolin has experienced CA gluing of the fretboard binding before since it was refretted at least once since I have owned it—for close to 40 years.
    Jim

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  10. #9

    Default Re: peate mandolin binding on edge of fingerboard loose

    Update... So I glued the binding with hot hide glue... and it worked awesome!
    Thanks again everyone for your help.... Mat

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