Hi Crane, I'm looking it up in Brozman's book on National instruments. That serial number would probably place it as a 1931 build (although National serial numbers can be confusing, and I can be easily confused!) on page 274, on the section for Triolian Mandolins and Ukes, it has a bunch listed as "separate from -W and -P, and then a section that reads: "These instruments below were inexplicably numbered in the -P and -W suffix guitar series", so it probably fits there, the closest listed being #815. I have a nickle-silver National style 1 #300. Fun instruments (although I'm a jug band player, what can I say?), a bit harsh but loud, better sounding IMO with flat wound strings and tuned down a bit because of their long scale length. (I tune mine one step down, FCGD, which helps my brain transpose. I know some folks tune two steps down. Hope this helps!
Non-original tailpiece (not a surprise, the originals just don't last) but looks pretty clean otherwise.
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I would like to sell the instrument, are there resources available to help me with an estimate for a fair price?
You can check listings here on mandolin cafe classifieds, reverb, ebay, etc, which will give you asking prices not necessarily selling prices. The style 1's are generally listing in the 1600 +/- range: I'm not sure about the triloians.
Yeah, the tailpiece on my Triolian #6354 came apart, and I had to replace it. Mine has a differently-shaped headstock, with "National" cut into the black plastic overlay. It also is painted in a uniform faux walnut, rather than sunburst like yours; I like yours better.
As to price, Musician's Friend/Guitar Center has a pretty worn-looking one for sale here for $1.4K; I see others listed with asking prices up to twice that. Yours looks relatively clean compared to the linked one. Have you strung it up? How's the neck angle? National instruments weren't necessarily models of careful construction; sometimes the wood in the necks wasn't the best, and the necks warped (example: my '30's Style 0 guitar, which required pulling the frets, planing the neck to flatness, and re-fretting). And, they don't have truss rods.
Good luck with yours; I've enjoyed mine -- rough and raucous, and the heaviest mandolin I've owned.
Allen Hopkins
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I had a beautiful '29 silver style 2 national mandolin. The fold of the tailpiece cracked. Harry Eibert, an expert luthier at that time in upstate New York, was able to silver solder it so it was stronger than it was originally. That repair held for many years until I sold it a few years ago.
Jim
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If the neck is warped I prefer to remove the fingerboard and reglue, clamping the neck slightly in a back bow. It won't weaken any further, like the thinning after planing the fingerboard. The new glue is also a plus for strength over the old glue joint, especially if both were hide glue.
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Definitely the nicest one that I've seen, at least of the painted variety as opposed to straight nickel or chrome (?) like Jim's. Most of these look fairly beat up, like the one Allen linked to. Still cool instruments, just look like they've been used in one too many cricket matches!
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