So, as a wedding present in 1985, my wife gave me an A style Washburn. Since then I made several failed attempts (various reasons) to learn how to play. Since the pandemic hit I’ve actually been making some progress. Over the years the Washburn has Lay dormant quite a bit as well as required some repairs — the bridge broke and was replaced, the plastic nut broke and was replaced with a bone one and the tail piece had to be replaced and I put on a Weber one. I just swapped out the tailpiece but all the other work was done by people who knew what they were doing and it was properly set up a few years ago when the nut was replaced. Well, now I do have a new Calhoun sitting in a case under the tree that I’m (technically) not allowed to touch until Christmas but I did feel obligated to tune it up and make sure it worked. What a difference good tuners make! The Washburn tuners have always been very stiff.
Since arthritis or carpal tunnel or something has set in my hands since 1985 and I already have put more into the Washburn than it cost new or is worth— why stop now? It does have sentiment attachment for me and actually for a plywood instrument sounds okay.
Any recommendations on tuners ? I’m thinking the Golden Age tuners at Elderly for $59
I think that would be my $ limit. And would changing tuners require getting a new set-up?
You may want to mark where your bridge is so you can get it back to the correct spot. Other than bridge placement nothing else should change so it should not require a new setup.
You will need to measure your tuners post center to post center. They should be standard but if you don't you won't know. I'm assuming they will be worm over and you will probably need to re-drill some screw holes. Stewmac makes two different Golden Age A tuners, one for the early years and one for the later years. They have different post centers. Elderly sells both. If it's this one it should fit (if yours are standard). If it's this one they will not fit. The dimensions of the first set I listed is below:
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
The other thing about your bridge is you want to make sure the base is not only in the same place but oriented in the same manner with the same side towards the bass and treble strings. I generally mark a B in pencil on the underside of the bass side of the bridge base and a B on the underside of the bridge saddle so they go back right. I also use blue painters tape to mark where the front back and sides are of the feet on the bridge. That way it goes back when you're done. Yes, I could reset where the bridge goes but this is easier.
"It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
--M. Stillion
"Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
--J. Garber
You may want to mark where your bridge is so you can get it back to the correct spot. Other than bridge placement nothing else should change so it should not require a new setup.
Or you could simply change the tuners one side at a time; i.e. leave the opposite two courses on whilst you change the others.
Or you could simply change the tuners one side at a time; i.e. leave the opposite two courses on whilst you change the others.
Yes you could do that. I usually change one string at a time so it's not a problem, but taking 4 strings off the same side it is possible when tuning up all 4 that it may pull the bridge slightly. It may not, but it has that possibility. Marking it's place would make it easier for either way.
I just put Stew-Mac Golden Age A style tuners (for newer standard post spacing) on 2 1930's instruments - a Stahl banjolin and Regal resonator. Neither of these had bushings originally so I added them as well (they come with the tuners).
I highly recommend spending the $20-ish for the proper size reamer for the bushings if you need it. Also, I've found bushings are almost NEVER interchangeable from one brand to another (I've replaced tuners on 6 instruments now). Removing bushings is when you're most likely to chip or damage your headstock finish. Either buy or build a tool to carefully press out the old ones (wood blocks, dowel, clamp).
Pressing in the new ones can be done with two thin scrap wood plates and two small clamps.
You may find the new bushing OD is smaller than the holes in your headstock ID (did I mention they're almost never interchangeable?) You can build up the OD with a few coats of superglue - just make sure it's completely dry before you put them in the holes.
I had loose, rattling tuner buttons on one set of Golden Age tuners. A little wicking of thin superglue in the gap on the shaft fixed them.
You can just replace one plate at a time (after first loosening ALL the strings at least a couple steps) so you don't have to worry about removing/replacing the bridge. That's how I've done a few.
Ed, since it was hardly ever used, it’s possible the old mando’s tuners are still ‘factory stiff’ and need exercise. Ii’ve seen recommendations for using a tuning key/crank and exercising new tuners before installation too. Even using a drill motor for this operation. Since tuners, cheap or not, do not have signifiicantly different properties with respect to friction surfaces, except for possible gear ratio differences, I’d be inclined to do a little experiment before jumping into new ones.
Although not a luthier-only job, new tuners may give you a little grief with respect to those bushings and involve woodwork. Or not.
And, of course, get one of the little cranks anyway for routine use if your fingers are troublesome.
Well, thanks to everyone. I hadn’t considered the bushings might be a challenge. I think before I change out the tuners I’ll try the tuner crank tool since the problem is probably my hands as much as the tuners. The mandolin really does stay tuned very well. But if I do decide to switch out the tuners I’ll have gotten really good guidance. Thank you
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