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Thread: another string changing tip

  1. #1
    Registered User jim simpson's Avatar
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    Default another string changing tip

    My personal favorite tailpiece is the James for ease of changing strings. On my Gibson's, I'll use blue tape to keep the loop from slipping of the hook. Here is a tailpiece that came off of a Collings, I found that using a plastic toothpick (StewMac sells these for drop filling glue) holds the string quite securely and makes string changes much less stressful.
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    Old Hometown, Cabin Fever String Band

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    Orrig Onion HonketyHank's Avatar
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    That's slick!
    New to mando? Click this link -->Newbies to join us at the Newbies Social Group.

    Just send an email to rob.meldrum@gmail.com with "mandolin setup" in the subject line and he will email you a copy of his ebook for free (free to all mandolincafe members).

    My website and blog: honketyhank.com

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  5. #3
    Moderator MikeEdgerton's Avatar
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Cool. On my Gibson with stamped steel tailpiece I use a small rare earth magnet that I keep attacked to my string cutter in the case pocket to hold the string on. That's just a simply elegant low-tech solution for the Allen style.
    "It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
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    "Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Imjust received the ebook download from Rob. Lots of great ideas and set up tips.
    Many thanks to him for making this available

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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    A revelation I found for changing strings appears (among other places) on more than one Rosa String Works repair/setup vids on YouTube (thanks for that Rosa!). I'ts a very basic idea that for me produced one of those 'Duh - why didn't I think of that?' moments. With this method, you don't poke the string through the post hole before winding up the slack, and you don't have to secure it at the tailpiece as shown helpfully above. You just pull the string tight once you have the loop on the tailpiece then wind the string straight round the post 2-3 times, and then poke the end through the post hole and pull tight with pliers. You're then set to bring it up to tension with no winding up the slack. It does require reasonable eyesight and maybe tough fingers, but it can save a lot of time and frustration. See below at about 19:23...


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    Registered User Eric Platt's Avatar
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Thanks for the toothpick tip. Hadn't thought of that. Sometimes will delay changing the strings on the Collings for that reason. Now, no excuses.
    Brentrup Model 23, Boeh A5 #37, Gibson A Jr., Big Muddy M-11, Coombe Classical flattop, Strad-O-Lin
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Quote Originally Posted by maxr View Post
    You just pull the string tight once you have the loop on the tailpiece then wind the string straight round the post 2-3 times, and then poke the end through the post hole and pull tight with pliers. You're then set to bring it up to tension with no winding up the slack.
    I have been doing this for decades and posted several timers here on the cafe. It's nice there is a video for folks to see. It is to me the simplest way to restring everything but a slot head instrument.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

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    maxr 

  14. #8
    Registered User Eric Platt's Avatar
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Quote Originally Posted by pops1 View Post
    I have been doing this for decades and posted several timers here on the cafe. It's nice there is a video for folks to see. It is to me the simplest way to restring everything but a slot head instrument.
    Because I learned the other method where there is always a wind above the tuner hole before going down, have not been able to get your method to work for me. Have tried, but am still too fumble fingered.
    Brentrup Model 23, Boeh A5 #37, Gibson A Jr., Big Muddy M-11, Coombe Classical flattop, Strad-O-Lin
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    Registered User Lane Pryce's Avatar
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Great Idea. I love the looks of Collings and Northfield tailpieces. However string changes were always a bear. The toothpick will definitely impart a newfound love for those tps. Thos Collings pieces are rather expensive. FYI They are CNC'd and finished by hand. Standard none engraved tp from Collings $300.00, Partially engraved $999.00, Fully engraved tp $1495.00. More than happy with my Collings James.
    J.Lane Pryce

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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    Quote Originally Posted by maxr View Post
    A revelation I found for changing strings appears (among other places) on more than one Rosa String Works repair/setup vids on YouTube (thanks for that Rosa!). I'ts a very basic idea that for me produced one of those 'Duh - why didn't I think of that?' moments. With this method, you don't poke the string through the post hole before winding up the slack, and you don't have to secure it at the tailpiece as shown helpfully above. You just pull the string tight once you have the loop on the tailpiece then wind the string straight round the post 2-3 times, and then poke the end through the post hole and pull tight with pliers. You're then set to bring it up to tension with no winding up the slack. It does require reasonable eyesight and maybe tough fingers, but it can save a lot of time and frustration. See below at about 19:23...
    I watched the video and gave this method a try on my octave just now. All I can say is, I had no idea there was such a simple solution to stringing a mando (or guitar). I'll never go back to trying to "guess" how much extra string to use and then winding it all up. Just wrap it 2 or 3 times, put the end through the hole and tune it up.
    NK Forster '23 Big Celtic - O
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  17. #11
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    Default Re: another string changing tip

    After 40 years of changing strings, I’d got the “old” method pretty much licked but I’ve since gone over to the “wind and poke” method and it’s much easier.

    That said, I still hate the Collings tailpiece with a vengeance. Even with wind and poke, there’s still a chance that you can flatten a loop whilst putting strings on and sheer brute force has to be used to get the heavier mandola strings off.

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