I only ever used #2 pencil to lub the nut +/or saddle notches. Without knowing what's in the lubricant, I'd be careful about getting any on a mandolin finish.
+1 on using the #2 pencil. That way you get the graphite exactly where it needs to be. Using a liquid get, you run the risk of over-lube and/or spillage.
"If your memories exceed your dreams, you have begun to die." - Anonymous
Never tried it, but it seems fairly pricey at about $10 on Amazon. I have used the #2 pencil/graphite thing from time to time, but always disliked the smudged nut look. Maybe try some of the powdered white teflon/PTFE the next time I have the need.
Still, a properly cut, slotted and smoothed nut goes a long way toward better tuning.
Kit
Guitars, Mandos, Violins, Dulcimers, Cats
TThe people who have commented like pencil graphite, Teflon-loaded specialty greases, and sometimes other stuff. I can’t easily locate Lubrikit’s MSDS, but generally the very smallest amount of any lube that doesn’t especially trap dirt should be ok, with Teflon particles in some evaporating carrier fitting the bill. The only thing I’d worry about with respect to finishes is a product with aggressive solvents, like acetone.
But tiny, tiny applications of anything is the rule.
A properly cut and filed slot in a bone nut shouldn't require anything. Any lubricant there is trying to fix a problem that shouldn't be there, unless you're changing string gauges to something larger. It's a temporary fix. I do find that some lubricant can be helpful if you've got a MOP nut, which seems to be a less slippery surface than bone.
Last edited by Dale Ludewig; Mar-08-2021 at 7:02pm.
Dale Ludewig
http://www.ludewigmandolins.com
I used to use that (and nut sauce) on bridge and nut slots. Like any gel or grease-like product, I found it attracts dust and dirt. Now I just use graphite.
MOP is much softer than bone or most metals, so I imagine a wound string, especially, digs right in when you tune. I don’t know enough about instruments to know, other than appearance, why metals aren’t more common on nuts and bridges. I can see not using soft or deformable plastics.
You want to be careful that greases or other liquids don't have silicone or other products that will mess with your finish or discolor things. Saw an interesting photo set someone did of a cream colored nut over several weeks, absorbing the color of a lubricant that was not supposed to have penetrating properties.
Pencil lead is a mixture of graphite and clay.
I don't use it any more, just keep the slots clean.
Dave H
Eastman 615 mandola
2011 Weber Bitteroot A5
2012 Weber Bitteroot F5
Eastman MD 915V
Gibson F9
2016 Capek ' Bob ' standard scale tenor banjo
Ibanez Artist 5 string
2001 Paul Shippey oval hole
I've been using the same syringe of Lubrikit for several years. It works as well as any kind of lubricant I've used in nut slots or electric saddle slots. Considering how sparingly it should be used, that $10 syringe is potentially a lifetime supply. It is pretty thick in consistency, there's little danger of it flowing somewhere you don't want it.
I'm in the habit of lubing the nut slots any time I set up a customer instrument, that's just what I was taught to do. With my own instruments, maybe every other string change. As others have mentioned, with well-cut/well-shaped nut slots, you shouldn't "need" to lube the nut slots. However, I think that reducing friction in this area makes sense. And with customer instruments, sometimes a poorly-made nut is just something you have to do your best with if the customer doesn't want to pay for a new one.
Last edited by Andy Miller; Mar-12-2021 at 11:46am.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
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