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Thread: Lubrikit

  1. #1

    Default Lubrikit

    This card for LUBRIKIT was packed inside my set of D'Addario strings. Anyone have any first hand experience using it?


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  2. #2
    Registered User John Soper's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    I only ever used #2 pencil to lub the nut +/or saddle notches. Without knowing what's in the lubricant, I'd be careful about getting any on a mandolin finish.

  3. #3
    Play on FredK's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    +1 on using the #2 pencil. That way you get the graphite exactly where it needs to be. Using a liquid get, you run the risk of over-lube and/or spillage.
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  4. #4
    Registered User TheMandoKit's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    Never tried it, but it seems fairly pricey at about $10 on Amazon. I have used the #2 pencil/graphite thing from time to time, but always disliked the smudged nut look. Maybe try some of the powdered white teflon/PTFE the next time I have the need.

    Still, a properly cut, slotted and smoothed nut goes a long way toward better tuning.
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  5. #5
    Registered User Sue Rieter's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    I have used the powdered teflon when I had a string binding in the nut, and it was great. Got it on Ebay. I didn't want pencil marks on the white nut. Later, I got the nut straightened out, but in the meantime, my mando stayed in tune better.

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  6. #6

    Default Re: Lubrikit

    TThe people who have commented like pencil graphite, Teflon-loaded specialty greases, and sometimes other stuff. I can’t easily locate Lubrikit’s MSDS, but generally the very smallest amount of any lube that doesn’t especially trap dirt should be ok, with Teflon particles in some evaporating carrier fitting the bill. The only thing I’d worry about with respect to finishes is a product with aggressive solvents, like acetone.
    But tiny, tiny applications of anything is the rule.

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    A properly cut and filed slot in a bone nut shouldn't require anything. Any lubricant there is trying to fix a problem that shouldn't be there, unless you're changing string gauges to something larger. It's a temporary fix. I do find that some lubricant can be helpful if you've got a MOP nut, which seems to be a less slippery surface than bone.
    Last edited by Dale Ludewig; Mar-08-2021 at 7:02pm.

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  9. #8
    Registered User Mandobart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    I used to use that (and nut sauce) on bridge and nut slots. Like any gel or grease-like product, I found it attracts dust and dirt. Now I just use graphite.

  10. #9

    Default Re: Lubrikit

    MOP is much softer than bone or most metals, so I imagine a wound string, especially, digs right in when you tune. I don’t know enough about instruments to know, other than appearance, why metals aren’t more common on nuts and bridges. I can see not using soft or deformable plastics.

  11. #10
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    You want to be careful that greases or other liquids don't have silicone or other products that will mess with your finish or discolor things. Saw an interesting photo set someone did of a cream colored nut over several weeks, absorbing the color of a lubricant that was not supposed to have penetrating properties.

  12. #11

    Default Re: Lubrikit

    Pencil lead is a mixture of graphite and clay.

    I don't use it any more, just keep the slots clean.

    Dave H
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  13. #12
    Mandolin User Andy Miller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    I've been using the same syringe of Lubrikit for several years. It works as well as any kind of lubricant I've used in nut slots or electric saddle slots. Considering how sparingly it should be used, that $10 syringe is potentially a lifetime supply. It is pretty thick in consistency, there's little danger of it flowing somewhere you don't want it.

  14. #13

    Default Re: Lubrikit

    Quote Originally Posted by Andy Miller View Post
    I've been using the same syringe of Lubrikit for several years. It works as well as any kind of lubricant I've used in nut slots or electric saddle slots. Considering how sparingly it should be used, that $10 syringe is potentially a lifetime supply. It is pretty thick in consistency, there's little danger of it flowing somewhere you don't want it.

    Hey Andy, how often do you apply a dab? At string change? . . . between changes too? Guess I'm asking how long it lasts once applied.

  15. #14
    Mandolin User Andy Miller's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    Quote Originally Posted by Dillon View Post
    Hey Andy, how often do you apply a dab? At string change? . . . between changes too? Guess I'm asking how long it lasts once applied.
    I'm in the habit of lubing the nut slots any time I set up a customer instrument, that's just what I was taught to do. With my own instruments, maybe every other string change. As others have mentioned, with well-cut/well-shaped nut slots, you shouldn't "need" to lube the nut slots. However, I think that reducing friction in this area makes sense. And with customer instruments, sometimes a poorly-made nut is just something you have to do your best with if the customer doesn't want to pay for a new one.
    Last edited by Andy Miller; Mar-12-2021 at 11:46am.

  16. #15
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Lubrikit

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard500 View Post
    MOP is much softer than bone or most metals, so I imagine a wound string, especially, digs right in when you tune...
    I've encountered many 100 year old pearl nuts that are still doing just fine. It is probably the most durable common nut material.
    As Dale said above, when string slots are properly fit and angled in the nut there is no need for lubricant.

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