I must have just misunderstood. I thought someone said they didn’t use bushings and I wondered why that would be better. I’ll get a reamer to fit the bushings. Thanks!
I must have just misunderstood. I thought someone said they didn’t use bushings and I wondered why that would be better. I’ll get a reamer to fit the bushings. Thanks!
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
And some of the antiques have a full plate on the top of the piece with accurate holes for the pegs, serving the same purpose. I have one that uses two separate plates, leaving a little room between for decoration, or metal decoration too. Adds a little weight, though.
What reamer are you all using for redhead bushings? I see various degrees and some straight flute or spiral but I'm unsure what to go for. The Rubner business are 8.2mm od on the press in part of the bruising the a 2 degree straight flute at Stew Mac is 7.3 or 8.3 mm in my mind to big or to small. Their tapered spiral cut is less than and up to just over 9mm. Would that one be a good choice?
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...ghole-reamers/
Thanks everyone if their is a better option maybe less expensive please let me know and thanks again. I have never purchased a reamer or used one before.
Last edited by John Bertotti; Nov-02-2021 at 6:28am.
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
I use a 3º reamer I got from Luthier's Merc a long time ago. I ream the peghead until the bushing is a little over 1mm shy of seating and put a sharpie mark on the reamer as a reference. Then I press fit the bushing the rest of the way.
SM's prices are on the high side and so is their shipping.
https://www.lmii.com/reamers-taps/28...-3-degree.html
Thanks! That is significantly cheaper but has straight flutes. I know nothing about hand reamers but in my other tools, routers etc I find I prefer spiral flutes. How much of a difference does it make with a hand tool in hard and soft wood?
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
As long as they're sharp I think the straight flutes are fine. I use the straight S-M reamers for all my tuners, endpin holes, bridge pin holes, etc., and they cut well. I suppose for something critical like bushed violin peg holes the spiral might have an advantage, but I've done those with straight reamers too, with no issues.
Andrew Mowry
Mowry Stringed Instruments
http://mowrystrings.com
Also visit me on Facebook to see work in progress and other updates.
But, the tool that is really the bee's knees is this chamfer tool:
https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...e-countersink/
If you use that before reaming the tuner holes you'll never get chipping of lacquer or varnish. It makes the job a lot less stressful.
Andrew Mowry
Mowry Stringed Instruments
http://mowrystrings.com
Also visit me on Facebook to see work in progress and other updates.
With a straight flute reamer we can "nudge" a hole to one side to correct placement if the drilled hole is a little off. With a spiral flute reamer that is nearly impossible.
Ideally, one of each would be great.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
And if you use it after reaming you'll never get chipping when ou need to pull the bushing out.
I've been using similar bit ever since I built my first mandolin. The one I have is a "rotary file" or something like that. You can get it in variety of shapes, sizes and coarsenesses for few $.
Adrian
At 2:08 what is he painting inside the instrument? Shellac?
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
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