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Thread: Non instrumental glue questions

  1. #1
    Mandolin user MontanaMatt's Avatar
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    Default Non instrumental glue questions

    I have a glue question for the woodworking experts.
    I want to glue some loose knots in Douglas Fir boards. Interior walls, tongue and groove, that have been treated with hemp oil. I have been using super glue with success, as it provides a clear dried glue. Are there other glues I should consider? I need it to be odor free.
    Also seeking supply suggestions for volume purchase of straight superglue if that is the best choice.
    Thanks for your help
    Matt
    2007 Weber Custom Elite "old wood"
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  2. #2
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Non instrumental glue questions

    Do you have loose knots with open areas that need to be filled? Tight knots that you just want to seal? Spike knots? Combination?
    I'm basically trying to understand what it is you need to do.

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  4. #3

    Default Re: Non instrumental glue questions

    I wouldn't describe super glue as "odor free"... but you can get 16 ounces for $40 from Tech Marketing / Stick Fast.
    https://www.amazon.com/Stick-Fast-Qu...8424648&sr=8-4

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  6. #4
    Mandolin user MontanaMatt's Avatar
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    Default Re: Non instrumental glue questions

    Quote Originally Posted by sunburst View Post
    Do you have loose knots with open areas that need to be filled? Tight knots that you just want to seal? Spike knots? Combination?
    I'm basically trying to understand what it is you need to do.
    Loose knots with minimal gaps, just ones that wiggle a little. A few are looser and or have a splitting core. I suppose the tight knots could use sealing to future proof them.
    2007 Weber Custom Elite "old wood"
    2017 Ratliff R5 Custom #1148
    Several nice old Fiddles
    2007 Martin 000-15S 12 fret Auditorium-slot head
    Deering Classic Open Back
    Too many microphones

    BridgerCreekBoys.com

  7. #5
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Non instrumental glue questions

    Not odor free until cured, but I would consider epoxy. Perhaps a shorter cure, thicker type, but with good surfacing qualities so you can scrape/sand the cured resin to a good finish easily. Sometimes 5 minute epoxy gives a slightly gummy cure, my 24 hour epoxy (system 3) cures to a nice hard solid that cuts and sands wonderfully. Maybe 30 minute cure or so would be a good compromise. There are also various casting resins available that yield quality surfaces.

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