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Thread: my homemade mandolin and case

  1. #1
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    Default my homemade mandolin and case

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    Sitka spruce top, bigleaf maple back and sides, carbon fibre bars, unknown wood from Mexico fingerboard ,lined and padded leather case
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  2. The Following 7 Users Say Thank You to Lappy For This Useful Post:


  3. #2

    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    I like it! How's she sound?

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  5. #3
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    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    nice!

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  7. #4
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    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    That looks good. Very Nice.

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  9. #5

    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    Very very nice. The bag is super cool. I am a big avocate for the hard case.

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  11. #6
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    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    Lappy, that is very nice. How long did it take you to build?

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  13. #7

    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    I really like that binding. Fancy without being gaudy.
    Soliver arm rested and Tone-Garded Northfield Model M with D’Addario NB 11.5-41, picked with a Wegen Bluegrass 1.4

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  15. #8

    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    Love the carving on the back. Was the binding dyed blue?

  16. #9
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    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    Quote Originally Posted by jcothron View Post
    I like it! How's she sound?
    nothing to write home about but I’m happy with it. I posted a video of “Miss McLeod’s Reel” in the old time forum.

  17. #10
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    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    I bought the blue binding on Amazon.

  18. #11

    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    Very nice. And it's super special!

    (Not sure if it's the lighting or not but in pic 5 it doesn't look like the bridge foot is making even contact with the top.)
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  20. #12
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    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    I still have to finish fitting the feet by lateral 1/8th inch sanding. This loses its glamour quickly.....

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  22. #13

    Default Re: my homemade mandolin and case

    Quote Originally Posted by Lappy View Post
    I still have to finish fitting the feet by lateral 1/8th inch sanding. This loses its glamour quickly.....
    Mating the bridge to the top will give you a much fuller tone. I scribe a line by laying a piece of 1/16" (or thinner) binding on the top abutting the bridge foot, then scribe a pencil line on the side of the bridge. Then you can use tools to get close to that line (I have an oscillating spindle sander which makes it a piece of cake) before sanding it in place. You may also want to consider a full ebony or rosewood bridge for optimum tone.

    *For the sanding, I use 220 grit sticky back paper, pin one end of the bridge down to the top with light finger pressure while I stroke the other end in an 1/2 - 3/4" arc. If you scribble on the bottom of the foot with pencil, you'll know you're done when all the pencil marking is gone. Because I'm picky, I repeat the process with 320 grit (probably unnecessary).

    * this is NOT the recommended method, but I've managed to make it work for me and get a fit that you can't slip paper under anywhere. Your craftsmanship looks good, enjoy that new mando!

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