More Neck Questions

[flatback88]

I’ve picked up a lot of good tips from other Mandolin Cafe posts, thank you everyone.
I was recently given a nut-less, bridge-less, tuner-less body of a 1960s Terada mandolin (like the ones sold under the Kent, Lyle, Lindell etc logos)
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Once re-appointed & strung, the shape of the neck became apparent … untwisted but like a roller-coaster (see picture below).



I’m guessing, from the state of the mandolin as given to me, it was a discarded luthier fix! However the deep body gives out a lovely full sound, and I’m sure with a lot of playing it will open up nicely. I’m loath to put it in the garbage! I know “turn it into a slide-mandolin” is always the thought, but it’s got a zero-fret which might make that idea unworkable.

Any thoughts on how to fix this? Many thanks

[John Bertotti]

I would pull the fretts and level it, if it didn't work I would ask here. I have a few ideas but I am not sure any would help over just replacing the neck. I, however, am no pro and would do all the work myself so that is a factor. What will you do on your own what are you willing to spend. I have considered getting my Vega bowl back restored when it needs it because I really like the instrument entry-level or not but many would abandon it to a piece of wall art and find another. So what is your limit?

For me, if I really liked this instrument I would level the board first and refret it. If that didn't work maybe I would remove the board and try a new board to see if it could reinforce the neck possibly installing some CF in the neck. If all else failed I would move on to the really involved process of removing the neck and replacing it. I would really have to love the instrument though.

[MrMoe]

Here is a long and tedious youTube about dealing with some of these problems. I watched it with the sound off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxvjhQTTitE&t=184s

[pops1]

I prefer to not level the board, as it makes it weaker and it is bowing already. I would do one of two things. I would remove and reglue the board, possibly putting a slight back bow in the neck before regluing. Second if I didn't want to do that I would refret with larger tangs in the fret wire than what is in there now. That would have a straightening effect. Then level the frets. I don't mind leveling a board if it is simply to level without correcting something this severe, but then it is not an expensive mandolin and light strings may keep it playing after leveling and refreting and that is much less work. Your call.

[MrMoe]

I like the approach Rosa String Works used in the video. When I do that repair I also replace the compression truss rod with a TRSDS or TRSTA from LMI.

[pops1]

Mr. Rosa should have done the truss rod repair first since it was not working correctly. Then, if the neck needed wood removed to flatten it after the rod was in effect, plane the neck. Instead of planing the neck then doing the truss rod.

[sunburst]

...I’m sure with a lot of playing it will open up nicely...

I'm considerably less sure of that, and in fact I would expect no improvement in sound from playing.

...I know “turn it into a slide-mandolin” is always the thought, but it’s got a zero-fret which might make that idea unworkable...

If you "turn it into a slide mandolin" by installing a tall nut the zero fret makes no difference; you won't be using the frets anyway.

As for how to fix, if you want to spend the money or expend the time, remove the 'board, plane the neck, add a CF stiffener, replace or reglue the 'board and do whatever it takes to get the frets in good shape whether that is mill and recrown or refret completely. It's a lot of work considering the market value of the mandolin.

[Nevin]

I have not watched this video but I have seen videos where he ruined instruments. As I said in a different forum,I wouldn't let him touch an instrument more valuable than a plastic uke. I wouldn't be taking repair ideas from him.
If the fingerboard isn't thick enough to level then you need a new fingerboard.

[flatback88]

Wow! So much input; thanks everyone, so helpful - I can't quote you all by name!

I cannot re-fret .. unfortunately I don't have the tools or the experience ... or the money to buy the necessary tools! I DO have a high-quality mandolin for serious gigs / recording etc., but I would really like a cheap fun instrument for the odd jam, campfire session, street-gig etc. And I think this one is pretty!

So this is what I will attempt, based upon some of your suggestions. If it doesn't work the instrument goes in the bin, so it's no loss.

I will have a go at taking off the fretboard (somehow marking its location) .. then have a look at the neck & decide what to do, then in some way try to get the neck back to "straight" (bowing? sanding? planing?); then I'll Titebond-glue-back the f'board.

Not something I've ever done, but worth a try. Wish me luck! And many, many thanks again for all your donated knowledge & suggestions; I really appreciate your help.

[ProfChris]

Re fretting is rather easier than removing and replacing the fretboard!

For this instrument I'd consider just levelling the frets. Ignore the frets beyond the "hump" at the neck/body joint unless you play up there. All those will be low, so not a problem

You have too much of a dip between the zero fret and the body join fret. Measure that gap somehow. Can you take that much off the zero and the body join fret and still play it? If so, fret levelling will make it playable - lots of tutorials online.

If not, consider installing higher frets and then levelling.

Removing fretboard, levelling the neck, installing reinforcement and attaching the fretboard is advanced level work!

[amowry]

I don't think just trying to level the frets would have any useful effect considering the amount of bow in the neck. I would do exactly what John suggested above-- remove the fretboard, flatten the neck, add CF, and reglue the fretboard. If I were doing it I would likely refret it too. Yes, it is a big project, but it's a good instrument to practice on if you trust your ability.

[Greg Mirken]

I'm always suspicious of real cheap instruments with bound fretboards, and that is about as entry-level a mandolin as you can find. I bet if you pop off the binding at the end of the "fingerboard" you'll see there really isn't one, just a thin veneer over junk plywood. Try to plane that and you'll have a mess.

[MrMoe]

It looks like a real fretboard to me. Peeking under the binding would be a place to start. The rest of it is almost certainly laminated. If so it certainly will not "open up" with playing. If it has any neck reinforcement it might be a steel bar. There is value in having a low risk instrument to practise repairs on if you have an interest in repair work.