The stripes looks like cedar.
How heavy is the wood? How stiff? What kind of 'tap tone'? What does it smell like?
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
I was thinking the same thing as John. I'd be surprised if it was cedar, although it's possible. It looks like a side/back set for a guitar and it would be likely that it's some harder tonewood. You might try going to LMI's website and look at their photos of the tonewoods they sell. Even then, identifying most woods from just photos is a long shot.
Dale Ludewig
http://www.ludewigmandolins.com
My first guess was some-kinda rosewood, and that's about as close as I can pin it down from pictures. It doesn't look like EIR, it doesn't look like Brazilian, it doesn't look like Honduran, so... that narrows it down, lol.
If there is any way to look for purchase records, or if there was a sellers label, or any information at all that might lead you to the seller they might be able to recognize it and ID it, but "some-kinda" rosewood is probably as close as you'll easily get otherwise.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Maybe Padauk?
Thanks for the help. No chance of paperwork turning up I'm afraid so we'll go with some kinda Rosewood. Cheers
Look up padauk, goncalo alves, macacauba, granadillo, and bubinga. Those are all under the umbrella of "some type of rosewood", or at least legumes which can have similar coloring to what your picture looks like (except for goncalo, which is a cashew).
A few years a go I was given some timber by a friend who is a very fine woodturner. He put it through his bandsaw and thicknesser to make back and side pieces for me. The timber is very similar to that in your photos and he called it Philippine Rosewood. I used some of it to build a bouzouki and a mandolin and the final pieces I used to make a case for a friend's flute. It was of variable quality with some unusable pieces where the grain split easily or tore out when he was using his thicknesser.
Last edited by John Kelly; Jul-24-2021 at 3:20pm.
I'm playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order. - Eric Morecambe
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOldBores
How about Cocobolo?
Try this
https://www.lmii.com/machiche-backs-...eadnought.html
Machiche
I have a guitar right beside me that I built last year made of it. It doesn't have the sapwood stripes but it's got a lot of that same look.
We could all just agree that it's related to some sort of rosewood mahogany type tree that grows for the most part somewhere other than northern Illinois.
Dale Ludewig
http://www.ludewigmandolins.com
The grain looks like padouk but it washes out to a muddy brown pretty quick when not finished. Perhaps pau ferro?
"Tonewood"
It’s not Paduke. Maybe Spanish Cedar
Jatoba? (aka Brazilian Cherry, Hymenaea courbaril)
-- Don
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I’m curious as to the general locale of the OP, considering the use of the word “timber”. Australia and thereabouts seem to have several exotic species. That being said, I’ll guess Brazilian Tulipwood.
Monte
Northfield F2S
Weber Yellowstone Octave F
I would use a very sharp edge tool and clean up enough of the end grain to see the xylem cells clearly, then google a good technical reference on tropical wood ID. It's entirely possible your timber can be ID'd by comparing the sample to some online photos of end grain, plus the other clues you already have.
Clark Beavans
Here is the page on Brazilian Tulipwood from The Wood Database.
Clark Beavans
Having whittled and worked with wood and having sharpened tools since I was in about the 3rd grade (nearly 60 years! ), I can say that it is not easy to get a tool that sharp and make an end gain cut that clean. A new razor blade will sometimes do. Exacto blade? Not quite.
I have done the end-grain slice for wood ID quite a few times and I seldom get a clean enough cut without several tries.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
With most wood species you can work up to it with light passes, rather than try to do it with the first pass. A sharp chisel works for me, also a block plane, but oddly enough a drawknife or spokeshave gives me surprisingly good results right off the bat. You only need to be able to see vessels, rays, pores, etc. well enough to determine their presence or absence and the patterns in a couple of annual growth increments. You don't need to clean it up as if it were going to be a finished edge.
In the wood ID class I took a long time ago as part of the forestry curriculum at NC State, they had us use single edge razor blades and a hand lens. Not, IMO, an acceptable way to proceed with a class full of novices, at least in terms of safety.
Clark Beavans
When I've had the most difficulty has been trying to determine whether black, evenly colored ebony fingerboards are quartered or not. Sometimes no features of the wood can be found visually, and when slicing the end grain any streaks left by the tool look about the same as growth rings. Ebony has tiny pores and little texture... a difficult subject.
John Hamlett
www.hamlettinstruments.com
Hi, I'm from West Yorkshire, UK. I've always used "timber" as we had a family Ironmonger's Shop, complete with "Timber shed" although we called the smaller stuff "wood".
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