Rising action on a guitar is usually the top rising from string pressure, as opposed to sinking, causing the need to reset the neck to the new top height. Different stress on a mandolin. The top will rise but usually from humidity and will settle back down again with drier weather. A guitar may rise some with humidity and settle down with drier weather, but I don't notice as much rise in a guitar. A cello or bass can move significantly with weather changes.
THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!
Sorry, I was gone over the weekend an couldn't leave any individual replies!
Just wanted to thank everyone for their helpfullness and patience. I feel I have a better understanding of my instrument now.
Also good to see there's such a lively mandolin based community!
Do you have the mandolin set up book?
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
nah, all I know is from the internet or the occasional encounter with a fellow picker.
Is this something I can buy or download?
Absolutely. Check out this thread if the link isn’t there just PM him.
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...by-Rob-Meldrum
My avatar is of my OldWave Oval A
Creativity is just doing something wierd and finding out others like it.
Awesome! I'll mail him straight away! Thanks for the hint!
Simply said, I'd avoid this one and look elsewhere...
Can be many reasons for the bridge to be set like that. How much adjustment was there originally? Replacement bridge? Base looks tall and non-standard design. The neck block area can rotate over time. More common with guitars, but can happen with mandolins. The riser block and extension can slip at the upper part of the neck towards the bridge. What kind of neck joint is it? Replacement fingerboard? Planed board and re-fret?
Looks like the bridge has plenty of room to lower it with some modification, so there is adjustment again.
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