Peghead Veneer Source

[Cragger]

Alright, first of many questions.
So, when I purchased my wood way back when, I only purchased the top, back, sides, neck, and bars. I did not purchase any veneer for the headstock. Looking at the dimensions of the template in the book, I need veneer that is 3 7/8" x 7 1/4". I see the oversized veneer on StewMac that is 3 7/8". Is that what everyone else purchases or can I source it somewhere else? I'm nervous about ordering the exact size I need and not getting a little extra.

[rcc56]

There are lots of places to get veneers.
One place to look is LMI's website. If you go there, don't look at "headplates," look at "veneers."
Woodcraft stores carry veneers, as do many other woodworking suppliers.
You can dye veneer yourself if you want to.

If you are in Birmingham, AL, there is another alternative: I have rough ebony cut-offs. They are very rough, have streaks, have grain run-out, and would need to be sanded to thickness. If you want to do the work necessary to make it usable, you are welcome to pm me. If you are in Birmingham, UK, I don't know what we be involved in shipping.

A pre-war F style peghead will require a piece with a minimum width of 4 1/8" [4 1/4" will leave more room for error], and minimum length of 7 1/4". Veneer is very delicate. You would probably be better off ordering a piece large enough for 3 or 4 overlays in case you run into problems.

[Tom Haywood]

I bought a pack of 5.5" x 12" Bubbinga veneer sheets from a local high-end hardware & crafts store probably 8 or 9 years ago. I remember it being cheap. I use it on my economy models. I think it looks fantastic under shellac or lacquer. There have been 2 unexpected problems. First, the veneer looks solid, but it is porous. The glue squeezes through it. Second, it tends to chip slightly along the edges when cutting or sanding the sides of the head stock. Just a heads up to be careful what you get.

I have used ebony and rosewood head stock plates from SM and LMII. They are solid and plenty thick. The only issues I see are the price and you may have to thickness them a bit. I buy the larger size.

[Tavy]

I use whatever offcuts are available, but I also have some nice maple sold for guitar sides that I got thicknessed down to 2mm for "structural" headstock overlays. If you google for "structural veneer" you may find some sellers offering that thickness rather than the usual 0.5mm veneer, albeit for an up-charge!

With regard to veneers - yes they're great, and the range of materials available is much broader than the solid woods. For strength though, I tend to use a 2mm thick structural-overlay, with a veneer on top, then do the same on the back as well. Looks lovely on the side as well when you cut through the "sandwich". As well as Tom's point about glue seeping through, the finish will also seep through and cause them to come unstuck if you're not careful - the trick is to apply several very thin coats that barely get the surface wet before you start building any thickness. Does depend on the glues and finish you're using though.