Hi.
I'm looking to buy my first Mando. There is a Kentucky km174 for sale for 200€. But it has a small split just above the sound hole.
Will this mess up it's sound?
Is it worth 200?
How could it be repaired?
Thanks
Hi.
I'm looking to buy my first Mando. There is a Kentucky km174 for sale for 200€. But it has a small split just above the sound hole.
Will this mess up it's sound?
Is it worth 200?
How could it be repaired?
Thanks
Yes, it could be repaired but that won't be free. I'd pass and wait for one without any damage. Good luck.
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Kentucky KM-805..........2 Hora M1086 Portuguese II(1 in car)
Hora M1088 Mandola.....
Richmond RMA-110..... .Noname Bearclaw
Pochette Franz Janisch...5 Pocket............Alfredo Privitera pocket
Puglisi Pocket 1908........Puglisi 1912.......Puglisi 1917
3 Mandolinetto ..............C.Garozzo
1 Mandriola...................Cannelo G. Mandriola...Böhm Waldzither 1921
Johs Møller 1945............Luigi Embergher Studio 1933
Marma Seashell back......Luigi Embergher 5bis 1909
You can't hear it but wait for a sound one anyway. It could also be a sign of some structural failure, that could worsen.
Kentucky KM-805..........2 Hora M1086 Portuguese II(1 in car)
Hora M1088 Mandola.....
Richmond RMA-110..... .Noname Bearclaw
Pochette Franz Janisch...5 Pocket............Alfredo Privitera pocket
Puglisi Pocket 1908........Puglisi 1912.......Puglisi 1917
3 Mandolinetto ..............C.Garozzo
1 Mandriola...................Cannelo G. Mandriola...Böhm Waldzither 1921
Johs Møller 1945............Luigi Embergher Studio 1933
Marma Seashell back......Luigi Embergher 5bis 1909
A crack on each side of the fingerboard and I would worry about structural failure, in the middle not so much.
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Do you think it's worth 200€? (About $200)
There are not do many used Kentucky for sale around here. And it's supposed to be a good instrument right?
The crack has nowhere else to go as the neck block will prevent any further splitting. It can be stabilised by gluing a small spruce (or other suitable tonewood) cleat across the crack on the underside. If you are doing this glue the cleat with its grain at right angles to the soundboard grain. Fiddle soundboards frequently have very much worse splits than this one, and often, when removing the soundboard to repair it, there will be earlier repairs evident. The instruments have remained very playable over long periods of time.
As far as value and whether you decide to buy this instrument, that has to be your choice. Good luck whatever you decide.
I'm playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order. - Eric Morecambe
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOldBores
Thanks John, would luthier glue be used for the repair or plain old PVA (since it should be strong and permanent)? Where would I source the appropriate spruce?
I've previously self-repaired my late uncles old Hupf fiddle, which I found under his bed, top split from sides and remnants of gut strings hanging off the pegs. A professional musician tried it and said it sounded good.
Pass on it. Find one that is structurally sound. Don't be a pound wise and penny foolish.
The glue does not matter so much with such a small repair - even CA glue could be used on this short crack. As far as suitable cleat material, I am lucky in that I have lots of offcuts from my instrument building, but if you cannot access the usual choices then get a wooden lollipop stick, sand or plane it down a bit (cleats do not need to be thick) and cut a suitably-sized cleat from it. Remember to have the grain at right angles to the soundboard grain.
I'm playing all the right notes, but not necessarily in the right order. - Eric Morecambe
http://www.youtube.com/user/TheOldBores
Yah, I’ve used the lollipop/tongue depressors for cleats before too they’re made from birch trees.
Ah well. Now I know. I missed it. It's sold.
Looks likegonna have to settle for an Ibanez m615
Willie Nelson wore a hole through the top of his guitar, it didn't stop him playing it or sounding good.
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