PS — So the short answer is: both.
PS — So the short answer is: both.
Gibson A-Junior snakehead (Keep on pluckin'!)
xxx
Gibson A-Junior snakehead (Keep on pluckin'!)
A few comments:
1) They aren’t chips, dings, or scratches, they’re “character”
2) A good setup is very important but also not very hard to do yourself. If you’re committing to playing an archtop instrument with a floating bridge then that’s something you really need to learn to do yourself. YouTube is your friend.
3) “Skip your second mandolin and go straight to your third mandolin.” Play and cherish the mandolin you have and save up for a $800-$1200 mandolin. If it takes years then just imagine how much better a player you’ll be once you finally get it.
I think learning the mandolin is a journey of unknown length and breadth. Important just to get started, jump in and see where it takes you.
My first mandolin was $25 made in Korea back in the 70's and was horrible. I improved the setup as much as I could with my rudimentary skills and learned all the basic chords. That's all this mandolin was good for, learning the bare basics. This was 40 years ago and I could never afford a better instrument, so I gave it up.
Finally I decided to take it more serious and actually learn to play well enough to have fun. Older, more money in pocket. And finally I could afford a modest F style with decent quality. It made all the difference. Now it was a joy to play and lo and behold, I remembered all those basic chords from my original foray. And as my playing improves, I learn to appreciate the better mandolins that I come across.
For the beginner it's the setup and playability that is more important than looks or tone. Get whichever mandolin is available and start. It will progress naturally from there and who knows where it will take you. But it would be rare for the first mandolin to be the only mandolin.
Thank you Psydaux! I agree, the more character the better IMO. I'm hoping to do a lot of the set up myself. I've got some new strings on they're way and I'll get started on it then. I got the set up ebook that Sue recommended earlier in the thread and it's outstanding. I lowered the bridge which made a huge difference but that's all. It stays in tune pretty well though and a lot of fun to play, easy to cherish. Thanks again for the feedback.
Thank you Nashville,
I think you're right on saying playability and set up should be the priority when getting started. I'm looking forward to improving that playability and learning more about the mandolin by doing as much of the set up as I can. I had a similar experience with the guitar, it was 15 years after getting a guitar gifted to me by my uncle when I was 9 or so before I actually sat down and figured out to how to play the damn thing. The more years I can get good playing out of this mando, the more I can afford that "third" mandolin in 1K+ range. My "one time mandolin purchase" statement at the beginning of the post should have said "my first mandolin purchase that needs to last years." It's early yet but I think this one has what it takes. Thanks again!
I wish I had seen this earlier.
Some companies sell their factory rejects to a company called MIRC. MIRC executes rudimentary repairs to make the instruments somewhat saleable, adds a new serial number on a sticker, and then certain small-time store owners buy them at a substantial discount. These instruments are not covered by the original manufacturer's warranty. They are supposed to have a stamp on them to indicate that they have been re-worked, but sometimes the stamp is missing or hard to see. Washburn is among the companies that sell their rejects to MIRC.
I would avoid any instrument with one of these serial number stickers. If they have problems or develop them later, the owner gets stuck.
I also do not recommend newer Washburn instruments under any conditions. Their quality control is very poor, and has been for many years.
If you haven't bought this instrument yet, I recommend avoiding it. If you've already bought it, keep your fingers crossed.
Hey Rank,
Getting a 600 series for the price you did may or may not be a great score, it's hard to tell without sighting down the neck. A pro will be able to tell you whether it's worth sinking more into or not. Properly adjusted nut slots are crucial for playability of a mandolin, often they are too high on lower budget instruments. Adjusting them takes special tools and experience to do a good job, it's best left to someone with serious experience working on mandolins.
Of everything I see in the pictures, I'd say the frets may have the biggest effect on how long you stick with this instrument. There's not enough bead left on the wire for a crown and polish, which means it's due for a refret which would cost you as much again as what you have invested. It depends on how good it sounds, if it's already pretty good it'll sound even better with new frets and $600 is still dirt cheap for a decent mandolin with a scroll.
Play it and enjoy learning. The more you play and the more mandolins you try once you know what to listen for will help determine your path.
Eda,
I have a Guild guitar with a sticker serial # like that because it was a blem.
They were having laquer issues and this one came off the line with finish checking. Sounds and plays great, was $500 including the hard case, and now looks even older than it’s 19 years…so maybe inquire about that if you don’t get a better answer…
Chuck
Bookmarks