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Thread: Screw extraction?

  1. #1
    Confused... or?
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    Default Screw extraction?

    I went to adjust the trussrod on my mid-90s Flatiron, and was shocked to find that the Phillips X-slots in both cover plate screws were totally rounded, meaning useless. The shock was mostly because its last "real" setup was an add-on to some more serious repairs done (well!) by a respected shop in Brooklyn, probably 12-15 years ago.

    (Aside:
    Were the slots rounded prior to that? Possibly, but I don't know - there were bigger issues at the time. As a full set-up was being done, for not-inconsequential bucks, I'd think that issue might been noted and reported? OTOH, the relief had been in good adjustment, I thought, so may not have needed to be looked at. But it is what it is... Onward!)

    FWIW, I've had poor success using screw extractors, whether wood screws or engine bolts, and these screws are smaller than most extractors sets go to. Are they tight or loose? No way of knowing. Fortunately, the cover plate is a relatively cheap piece of black plastic, so marring it in the process would be little problem.

    So... After research here and the other usual places, it looks like grabbing the domed head with vice-grips is probably the way to go, maybe. Yes, they are small screws, but I have appropriately small vice-grips.

    What could possibly go wrong, other than the screw head breaking off, or crushing to the point that it loses integrity and, ya know, breaks off anyway?

    While this is low on the "intensity scale" of instrument repairs, it's probably something that you folks see regularly and I appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!
    - Ed

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  2. #2
    Registered User sunburst's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    1. If the truss rod cover is expendable, cut/rip/tear it off to make more of the screws accessible to vicegrips. Use something thinner (duct tape, thin plastic, whatever) to protect the finish.

    2. If you have a jewelers saw, razor saw, dremel, or any other way to saw a slot in the screw heads you might be able to remove them using a flat screwdriver.

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  4. #3
    Registered User Tavy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    John's #2 for me, usually with a dremmel cut off disk. It even works (sometimes anyway) when the head is broken off.

  5. #4
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    StewMac sells a kit to handle extraction of screws with stripped heads. You also can buy items in the kid individually:

    https://www.stewmac.com/luthier-tool...SABEgI7NfD_BwE

  6. #5
    Moderator MikeEdgerton's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    I have a small set of vice grips I own for situations like this. I hate rounded out screws.
    "It's comparable to playing a cheese slicer."
    --M. Stillion

    "Bargain instruments are no bargains if you can't play them"
    --J. Garber

  7. #6
    Likes quaint instruments poul hansen's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    As John Hamlett says, break off the plate.

    When you grip the screw don't force it. Turn it clockwise, counterclockwise aso, till you feel it's loose. These are smal screws set in wood, so no problem. They could be rusted , thats why you should turn it back and forth-
    Kentucky KM-805..........2 Hora M1086 Portuguese II(1 in car)
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  8. #7

    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    The flush cutting nippers sold or homebrew used to extract frets can get very close to a round head small screw, and if you’re careful, twist it free. But I would first try a sharp, new Phillips head driver with a little tapping while turning.

  9. #8

    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    Quote Originally Posted by Richard500 View Post
    The flush cutting nippers sold or homebrew used to extract frets can get very close to a round head small screw, and if you’re careful, twist it free. But I would first try a sharp, new Phillips head driver with a little tapping while turning.
    I've had good luck with the nippers, as well. I also clean the dirt and file worn Phillips screwdriver tips to keep them sharp.

    Also, if there is ANY head left, I take an X-acto sharp point blade and "dig out" any rust or dirt in the bottom of the head, allowing the screwdriver to go deeper into it.

    The StewMac kit looks like it requires drilling a 3/16" hole, then plugging it, which for this application would not be possible.

    Out of desperation, which seems to happen on a regular basis, I have in the past super-glued a junk screwdriver into the worn hole, let it sit to dry overnight, if possible, then try it. Sometimes requires more than one attempt....good luck!

  10. #9
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    I am another John #2. I use a dremel cutoff wheel or a hacksaw depending on how much room I have. The slot will now easily take out the screw.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  11. #10
    Registered User Tavy's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    Quote Originally Posted by pops1 View Post
    I am another John #2. I use a dremel cutoff wheel or a hacksaw depending on how much room I have. The slot will now easily take out the screw.
    Also forgot to say, if you save worn down cutoff disks, a really small diameter one is perfect for this sort of job - lets you dig a good slot in the screw without cutting into the surrounding material.

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  13. #11
    Registered User Dan Adams's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    I took off my tuners once and broke a screw. A friend suggested that I take it to a gunsmith. He got the screw out without damage and I don’t know how.. I figured they were experts in small screws. Cost me like $10
    Play em like you know em!

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  15. #12
    Registered User lowtone2's Avatar
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    Default Re: Screw extraction?

    Extractors, left handed bits, are available as small as 1/16". Not hard to find either.

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