Yet another Kentucky KM-1050 vs KM-1500 thread?!

[eiscreamsherlock]

Hey Folks,

I've been lurking around here for a couple years and while I don't really want my first post to be yet another "Kentucky Mando 1 vs. Kentucky Mando 2" thread, I've run into a question for which I couldn't find an answer in an existing post.

For a little context, I've been playing guitar and bass of varying styles for almost 20 years now. I bought my first mandolin during lockdown (a Loar LM700-VS) because I wanted to try getting another string instrument to the mix. Unsurprisingly, I've caught the mando bug and have already attended a couple of workshops and bought a second Mandolin (an Eastman MD805/v). The Eastman is a fine instrument and I find it much easier to play than the Loar, but it's not really the feel or sound I'm looking for right now.

I have an opportunity to trade the Eastman toward either a Kentucky KM-1050 or a Kentucky KM-1500. From the videos and posts I've seen about both instruments, I think the sound/tone and the fittings for both of the instruments are going to suit my needs and allow me to grow for a while. However, I'm having difficulty finding information that compares the feel of the neck and fretboard of the two instruments.

I find the flat fingerboard of my Loar very difficult to play compared to the radiused Eastman, so the fact that both Kentucky's have a radiused sounds like a benefit for me. I also like the sound of "taller" frets on the 1050. However, the price of the 1500 isn't that much more of a stretch from the 1050 (at least for the two I'm looking at), so if the better instrument is a good fit for these long, guitar-playing fingers, I wouldn't mind moving to the nicer mandolin as my main driver. Well, at least until I can justify moving up to one of those wide-nut Northfields.

Unfortunately there are no stores here in Germany that carry either instrument so the only way I'll really be able to compare them is to purchase both and return the one that's not a good fit. Before going that (rather expensive) route, I was wondering if folks could help me out with any personal suggestions or expert advice on these two instruments.

I've read quite a few of these kinds of posts already, so I'll also mention that the used mando market in Germany is not particularly big and I've been bit too many times by shipping issues + import fees from the US for looking around the classifieds to be an option for me.

If there's any other info I could provide that would help narrow down the options/suggestions, please let me know.


Thanks!

[BrianWilliam]

It’s been a while since I held one but I think km1500s have flat fretboards

[pheffernan]

Unfortunately there are no stores here in Germany that carry either instrument so the only way I'll really be able to compare them is to purchase both and return the one that's not a good fit. Before going that (rather expensive) route, I was wondering if folks could help me out with any personal suggestions or expert advice on these two instruments.

I've read quite a few of these kinds of posts already, so I'll also mention that the used mando market in Germany is not particularly big and I've been bit too many times by shipping issues + import fees from the US for looking around the classifieds to be an option for me.

You could always narrow your search in the classifieds by using “€” or “Eu,” for instance. I didn’t find any Kentucky mandolins near you, but there is an interesting old Gibson in Denmark:

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/191741#191741

[webber]

If what you're looking for is a jump in sound quality, save your money! Either Kentucky will be a side-grade from your 805v, at best. If they're at all like the high-end Eastmans and Kentuckys I've played, your varnish-model Eastman probably sounds better, anyways. If what you're really wanting is the sound of a Northfield, save your money for one of those, instead!

By the way, I'm not sure about prices in Germany, but in the US, a Kentucky 1500 is a $2800 mandolin. A Northfield Model M is also a $2800 mandolin, brand new. Having played several Model Ms, the acoustics are a cut above anything from the Kentucky or Eastman model lines.

[Mark Gunter]

I’m not sure how many different mandolins you may have held or played besides the two you’ve owned, but sometimes they can fool you. The one with flat board may feel wrong to you because of its neck profile! At any rate, I find that on mandolins, which are so much smaller than guitars, radiuses vs. non makes little difference, whereas neck profile makes a world of difference. But that’s just my experience.

[carusdp]

I have both a Kentucky Km-1050 and a Northfield Big Mon. The Kentucky can hang with the Northfield all day. Maybe I got lucky with mine but but the Kentucky is killer. I won't say whats better sounding when it comes to recording them. Both are great and compliment each other. The Kentucky is more traditional sounding and has a mix-cut that stands out TO ME. I say none of this to slack the Northfield. It also has a tone to die for. Wish I could have the neck of the Kentucky on the body of the Big Mon. Love them both equally though. But my point is the Kentucky would have been fine if it was my only mandolin. Lucky to have both. I'm always going to stick up for the Kentucky. Great mandolin that keeps getting better it seems.

Dave C

[ccravens]

If what you're looking for is a jump in sound quality, save your money! Either Kentucky will be a side-grade from your 805v, at best. If they're at all like the high-end Eastmans and Kentuckys I've played, your varnish-model Eastman probably sounds better, anyways. If what you're really wanting is the sound of a Northfield, save your money for one of those, instead!

By the way, I'm not sure about prices in Germany, but in the US, a Kentucky 1500 is a $2800 mandolin. A Northfield Model M is also a $2800 mandolin, brand new. Having played several Model Ms, the acoustics are a cut above anything from the Kentucky or Eastman model lines.

I agree with all of this.

[eiscreamsherlock]

I'm really glad I took the time to ask this question because there are several points in here that I hadn't considered or wasn't aware of.

It’s been a while since I held one but I think km1500s have flat fretboards

This is specifically what I was "concerned" about, so I appreciate the clear note.

You could always narrow your search in the classifieds by using “€” or “Eu,” for instance. I didn’t find any Kentucky mandolins near you, but there is an interesting old Gibson in Denmark:

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/191741#191741

A round hole, A-style isn't really something I'm looking for, but the note about search parameters is definitely something I'll keep in mind.

If what you're looking for is a jump in sound quality, save your money! Either Kentucky will be a side-grade from your 805v, at best. If they're at all like the high-end Eastmans and Kentuckys I've played, your varnish-model Eastman probably sounds better, anyways. If what you're really wanting is the sound of a Northfield, save your money for one of those, instead!

By the way, I'm not sure about prices in Germany, but in the US, a Kentucky 1500 is a $2800 mandolin. A Northfield Model M is also a $2800 mandolin, brand new. Having played several Model Ms, the acoustics are a cut above anything from the Kentucky or Eastman model lines.

That's really valuable info about the sound comparison. I do like the way varnish wood sounds, but I was kind of making the assumption that the the higher price point of the Kentucky's meant they would also be a step up in tone.

I’m not sure how many different mandolins you may have held or played besides the two you’ve owned, but sometimes they can fool you. The one with flat board may feel wrong to you because of its neck profile! At any rate, I find that on mandolins, which are so much smaller than guitars, radiuses vs. non makes little difference, whereas neck profile makes a world of difference. But that’s just my experience.

It's definitely less than 50, but I've had the good fortune of putting my hands on more than just the two mandos that I own.

The point about neck profile is well noted. I find that wider, flatter fretboards are much easier to play on a guitar if there's a good amount of "shoulder" to the neck. I think this "profile feel" kind of info is what I was actually after when asking about fretboard width/radius comparison between the two Kentuckys.

Wish I could have the neck of the Kentucky on the body of the Big Mon.

Now this is very interesting to hear. I played around on a Northfield the last time I was at a shop in Germany that carries them. They have a very nice feel, but I passed at the time because I wasn't ready for that kind of a step up and, at the time, the shop owner and I discussed the possibility of ordering a wide-nut model in the future.

I'm not a huge fan of the A-style shape for how it sits on my body when I play, but at webber's suggestion above, I did a quick search to see if anyone was offering a Northfield Model M in the area. I didn't find one available right now, but the search did bring up a used Big Mon that was recently posted for sale. Everything I've heard from or about the Big Mon (reviews, recordings, live shows) has been very positive, so I messaged the seller to see what they're asking for (price is unlisted). Your point about the Kentucky 1050 neck though gives me something to think about.



Thanks for all of your help so far. It seems I've still got some points to consider, so feel free to add anything else you feel might be helpful.

[pheffernan]

A round hole, A-style isn't really something I'm looking for, but the note about search parameters is definitely something I'll keep in mind.

How about an A-style with f-holes?

https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/192667#192667

[cayuga red]

Both are pro-level instruments so you will be pleased with either one.
Good luck!

[webber]

That's really valuable info about the sound comparison. I do like the way varnish wood sounds, but I was kind of making the assumption that the the higher price point of the Kentucky's meant they would also be a step up in tone.

Think about it this way: both Northfield and Kentucky to sell a $2800 mandolin. The Model M is about as plain as you can get (short of the wood selection). You're paying entirely for the attention to detail in construction and acoustics. The KM-1500 is about as fancy as you can get! You're paying for the inlays, the polish, the binding, and (most expensive of all) the scroll and F-style accoutrements. Naturally, that leaves a lot less money for construction and acoustics. What are you trying to buy with your upgrade?

Now this is very interesting to hear. I played around on a Northfield the last time I was at a shop in Germany that carries them. They have a very nice feel, but I passed at the time because I wasn't ready for that kind of a step up and, at the time, the shop owner and I discussed the possibility of ordering a wide-nut model in the future.

If you have a shop in Germany that carries Northfield, go play a bunch in person! They're all super different. I was convinced I wanted a wide-nut until I played one side-by-side with a standard width. I was also convinced I wanted a Big Mon, until I fell in love with the sound of my one particular F5S. Instruments have individual personalities, and I'd always recommend trying before you buy if you can help it.

I'm not a huge fan of the A-style shape for how it sits on my body when I play, but at webber's suggestion above, I did a quick search to see if anyone was offering a Northfield Model M in the area. I didn't find one available right now, but the search did bring up a used Big Mon that was recently posted for sale. Everything I've heard from or about the Big Mon (reviews, recordings, live shows) has been very positive, so I messaged the seller to see what they're asking for (price is unlisted).

The Big Mon is a lifetime mandolin, and you can't go wrong with it. Going back to the previous point, about whether you want to invest in sound or in aesthetics, the Big Mon is at the price point where you get to have both. Every single one I've played has been knock-your-socks-off good. Hope you get a great deal on this particular used one!

[Keith Witty]

I do think a KM-1050 is a better mandolin, generally, than the 815v, but it's not a major difference. The real issue is that for a lot of overseas mandos, it's just rolling the dice and hoping you're getting one of the really good ones. I still, at times, miss my LM700vs, and know that I had one of those rarish great "cheap" mandolins, but I've played a couple other LM700's and found them pretty forgettable. If you play the Kentucky first and find it much better, then go for it, if you can't, then I would highly recommend saving a bit more and getting a Northfield or a Used-Gallatin/Bitterroot from Weber.