Collection of posts, threads, and other links for new builders

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I started compiling these in a Google docs about 6-7 years ago, planning to start building a mandolin. Life got in the way, plus two whitewater dory builds, and a few guitars and ukes. Now the time has finally rolled around I’m looking into making an F5. Most of these links were items which caught my interest, and perhaps may appeal to other new builders.

Some of the links may be dead by now, but a Google search might find them hosted on another site.

I can’t claim accuracy for any of these, as an inexperienced mandolin builder, and I hope none of this breaks any forum rules. Also, all of this info is publicly sourced. And a few posts come from other folk’s web sites, with full attribution. If you see something, perhaps connected to you, that you’d rather not have included, or something trademarked/copyrighted, please let me know and I’ll remove it.

This is going to be a really long post. Due to size limits on MC I need to split it into several separate pages. Also, the photos won’t go through so I’m using a redacted version removing pics and hopefully associated references. I have the Google docs link if you’d like to see the full version.

Hope this is helpful to others,

Jon



Mandolin Building Info:

General:

Link to listen to Prairie Home Companion : version of Fisher’s Hornpipe:
http://www.publicradio.org/tools/med...ime=01:59:00.0

Great overview of tools/supplies/some techniques:
https://www.mandozine.com/instruments/SMLC/index.html

Gibson factory tour. Frets.com: four pages
http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Feat...onmills01.html

Arches build manual http://www.archesmandolin.com/mandol.../#kerfedlining

Dudenbostel shop video. https://vimeo.com/8915022

Gilcrest build list and great pics. http://www.gilchristmandolins.com/current/


Wood:

Orcas Island Tonewood. Bruce Harvie. Great guy and wonderful big leaf maple. http://www.radiofreeolga.com/tonewoods/stocklist.html

Old Standard Wood. John Griffin. Great guy, superb wood. http://www.adirondackspruce.com/mandolin-wood/

Bow River. http://www.bowriverwoods.com/tonewoo...d-soundboards/

Old World Tonewood. https://www.oldworldtonewood.com/

Northridge Hardwoods. https://www.northridgehardwoods.com

Billets and Resawing

Good discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ed-Spruce-Help
I personally would tilt the table so that you can use a rip fence, aligning the blade with the line that you have drawn on the end of the wedge. That way you can hold the wedge tightly against the fence, limiting the number of things that can go wrong

Other Supplies:

Best double sided tape: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...104#post937104

Build Videos:

Siminoff Series channel. https://m.youtube.com/channel/UCfQ0TfMFhW-nOOV02Y9JF2w

Build blogs / Websites:

My favorite build, Mandocello build, John Hamlett, “Sunburst”. 19 pages of excellence:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...o-build-thread

Troy Harris - great step by step. https://www.facebook.com/harrismandolins/

Steve Etter, Nice build blog. http://lutheriefromscratch.blogspot.com

Siminoff pdf Build instruction sheets:http://siminoff.net/instruction-sheets/

Build on Anzlf.com forum:
http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?f...92fc4ebedd019d

Peter Holcomb web. http://www.petercoombe.com

Lynn Dudenbostel http://www.lynndudenbostel.com/bio.htm

Miller F5 Arches kit. https://cmillerguitars.com/category/...lin-kit-build/

Dudenbostel F5 build website pics. 13 pages. Excellent!:
https://www.petercoombe.com/Dude-con...n/top-page.htm
-page 1: https://www.petercoombe.com/Dude-construction/page1.htm

Austin Clark - beautiful pics on this post: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...got-a-Clark-F5!
The colors are TransTint in alcohol. I mostly mix my own shades from the options they offer and try to use three, sometimes four colors for the burst.

Peter Coombe build http://www.petercoombe.com/Construction.htm

Jamie Wiens build photo essay: superb!!

Building soundbox. http://wiensmandolins.com/making-the-body/
Neck and fingerboard. http://wiensmandolins.com/making-the-neck-fingerboard/
Pickguard and bridge. http://wiensmandolins.com/making-the-pickguard-bridge/
Stain and finish. http://wiensmandolins.com/staining-finishing/

Graham MacDonald. http://www.mcdonaldstrings.com

Smith Creek - plates, CNC carving and build blog
http://www.smithcreekmandolin.com/ma...olaplates.html

Brentrup http://www.brentrup.com

Brentrup model comparison: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...-F5C-and-M23VB

F5 build thread. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...n-Build-Thread

Hog Time build. http://www.hogtimemusic.com/MandoBuild/

Stan Miller construction pages. http://www.stanmillermandolins.com/Construction.htm

StewMac Campfire Mandolin manual. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...902-Truss-rods

Aptius Mandolins photo builds- 5 parts
http://apitiusmandolins.com/Mandolin...struction.html
plate carving http://apitiusmandolins.com/A-Model%...ng%20page.html
Rim http://apitiusmandolins.com/A-Model%...ng%20page.html
Pearl inlay http://apitiusmandolins.com/A-%20Mod...ay%20Page.html
Neck http://apitiusmandolins.com/Neck%20Making%20Page.html
Fretting. http://apitiusmandolins.com/Installing%20Frets.html

Lutherie forums:

Mandolin Cafe. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/forum.php

Books:

Roger Siminoff. Ultimate Bluegrass Mandolin Construction
https://siminoffbooks.com/products/t...al-4th-edition

Graham MacDonald. Mandolin Project book https://www.amazon.com/Mandolin-Proj...W66F820JP2GEGD

Plans:

Siminoff book/plan issues. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ructions-plans

Georgia Luthier Supply F5 plans (now GenOne)

Adrian’s F5 plans from Elderly. - superb! https://www.elderly.com/gibson-lloyd...-version-3.htm

Octave Mandolin: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...320#post944320

Templates:

Post from Mandolin Cafe:

Make your own:
Why not get a sheet of thin (1/8" or less) plexiglass from a hardware store and cut a template to match Adrian's drawing?

Then cut slightly oversize and sand/file/scrape to the lines; not your lines, but the lines of the drawing seen through the material. You can also use a french curve, circle templates and such, and a scribe to get an accurate scribed line in the plastic, then you have a definite line to work to. When you sand or file to a scribed line, the burr of material that the file or sandpaper raises at the edge will magically disappear right when you get there.

Like John said, get some acrylic sheet and trace your own from the plans. I have done exactly that. I made a photocopy of just the body section from the plans and used spray adhesive to stick it to the acrylic. A lot easier than trying to trace from the plans. Scribe over the center line, outline, and other important locations with an exacto knife. Those marks will become part of your template. Cut it out on a band saw, or scroll saw and use a sander and files to clean it up to the final shape. Go slow with the saws and sanders, the plastic tends to melt and gum up. A few bucks at the hardware store and a little work will result in a template you know will match your plans.

Kits:
Chris Baird. F5. $850. http://www.archesmandolin.com/shop/f...-kit-dec-2012/

Stew Mac kit instructions w binding dimensions. http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Online..._Assembly.html

C. Baird online build manual - very helpful
http://www.archesmandolin.com/mandol...-construction/

[rickbella]

Thank you!

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Pg 2:

Molds:

Smith Creek inside mold how-to: http://www.smithcreekmandolin.com/mo...ebodymold.html

Smith Creek inside mold/template plus bending tutorial http://www.smithcreekmandolin.com/mo...ebodymold.html

Brentrup describing his use of an inside mold: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...5C-in-progress

Jamie Wien’s:http://wiensmandolins.com/making-the-body/

Template. http://parts.siminoff.net/bodyphnecktemplates.aspx

Building a Siminoff body mold http://missionvalleymusic.blogspot.c...y-fixture.html
And http://missionvalleymusic.blogspot.c...y-fixture.html

Mold discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...2-Inny-or-Outy

Tools - Handtools:

List of luthier handtools https://www.jsbguitars.com/guitar-bu...ng-hand-tools/

Diefenbacher: http://www.diefenbacher.com/luthier.htm


Glues:

Nice glue pot alternative for $40. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Hot...161?rmvSB=true

Bob Smith Industries Super Gold - thin, odorless. https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-Ind...ith+super+gold


Plates - dimensions and details:

Loar plate dimensions. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...440-Loar-Specs

Another list of Loar plate dimensions. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...oard-thickness

Andrew Mowry topos of top and back. http://mowrystrings.com/Mowry_F5_Contours_9_05.pdf

Carving Euro maple dimensions. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...nd-Other-Stuff


Plates - manual carving and tools:

Carving the back:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ing-on-for-top
Cut to slightly oversize shape.
Belt sander to create a rough slope, see photo below.
Use router sled to cut outer edge down to 6mm, about 1/2 " wide.
Drill depth holes using my template for outside contour.
Angle grinder with 40 grit down to almost final shape.
Finger plane to cut off any odd edges and create trench for recurve.
Palm sander 120 grit then 220 grit to smooth and shape the contour of the arch.
Hand sand to final shape.

Spoon plate. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/carvers-spoon-plane

Red Spruce top. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...ack-Spruce-top

Carving back https://m.youtube.com/watch?ebc=ANyP...&v=x2n8Kdw2qNY

Carving back https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mj9PTSsVlFY

Good discussion of plate carving. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-Plate-carving

Great build thread re: carving. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...d-thread/page4

Curtate Cycloid plate carving. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...rving-tutorial


Mandolin Cafe post from John Hamlett:

Carving cradles:
I have carving cradles for mandolin, mandola, and now mandocello. All are made the same way, from scrap plywood. All are 1/2" or 5/8" plywood with 1/4" plywood (That's 12mm, 16mm and 6mm for anyone interested...) overlaid for holding the plates. I just used flathead screws to attach the 1/4" ply', and countersunk them deep enough to hopefully avoid hitting them with an errant chisel.
1/4" plywood is actually thinner than 1/4" most of the time, and I leave the edges of my plates a little thick until later in the building process, so it works out fine.
I'll try to get a picture or two in the next couple of days.
Pics here: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...d-thread/page8

Siminoff carving the back scroll: http://siminoff.net/cms/wp-content/u...backboards.pdf

Siminoff carving the soundboard: http://siminoff.net/cms/wp-content/u...load_sdbds.pdf


Kutzall shaping disks. https://kutzall.com/collections/sand...4-1-2-diameter
And https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...mandolin-plate

Turbotech arboplane grinding wheel https://www.amazon.com/Arbortech-IND.../dp/B008NA2IJ0

Herdim finger planes https://www.howardcore.com/Catalog/t...lanes/AS-S.htm

Diefenbacher violin gouge. http://www.diefenbacher.com/luthier2..._Violin_Gouges

Veritas double concave plane http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/pag...at=1,230,41182
And Lee Valley palm plane http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.aspx?p=57205&cat=1,41182[/URL

Travisher spokeshave: http://travisher.com/travisher/

Veritas spokeshave kits - cheaper -http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?p=49710&cat=1,50230&ap=1

Pfeil woodworking knives. http://www.howardcore.com/cgi-bin/sh...ng%20Knives%22

Sabatier woodcarving knives. http://www.howardcore.com/cgi-bin/sh...ng%20Knives%22

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Pg 3.

CNC - mainly plates, and other parts:

Posts from Mandolin Cafe forum:

Dudenbostel CNC:
Fortunately, I didn't have to learn CAD. I have a digitizing probe and ran it on a top I carved myself. It collects X,Y,Z data points and then you can create a program to duplicate the probed part. So, in effect, I am just duplicating something I carved, only instead of using a pantograph type machine like a Marlin, I'm using a CNC machine. Bottom line is there is no difference, except I don't have to sit there and run the machine while it spits sawdust in my face!

More from Dude:

I had a Marlin (now Terrco) and used it for several years. I hated running that thing! It was the part of building that I would always dread. Nothing wrong with the duplicator, but it would throw dust/chips everywhere, and hanging onto the stylus with my right hand, and the router with my left was very tiring. Also, after running the thing for a couple of hours, I'd find my left hand shaking from the high freq. vibration in the router, much like running a leaf blower for a while. Long term, this isn't good for you.... not if you want to still have good use of your hands in your old age! I did use a good Porter Cable router, so the vibration was minimized as much as possible. I'm now using a ShopBot PRT48 and loving it! Don't get me wrong, the Marlin is better than carving by hand. If you are just building the occasional mandolin, the Marlin is fine, but for someone building quite a few instruments, there's nothing like CNC.

Look for a used Marlin. I've seen older ones go for $300 and newer ones around $500. They are faily plentiful, and with more people switching to CNC, more used ones are out there. A couple of years ago, Steve Smith and I went to the IWF show in Atlanta. The CNC company booths were really busy. The Terrco folks were as lonely as the Maytag repairman. The Marlins still have their place, especially for the hobbiest and lower production shops. Heck, I think even Steve G. still uses a duplicator, and he's not exactly low production compared to some of us!



Look at www.shopbottools.com They have prices there. Last I looked, the smaller table top model (plenty big for mandos and guitars) was $4995. You'll have to supply a PC, but it doesn't take much of a computer to run it. I use an old 100 mg Pentium dinosaur. It will run it at full speed. You'll probably want a digitizing probe to probe your patterns. That's another $250, and add another $300 or so for a router. You can spend a ton on software, but I use the probe with the software that comes with the "bot and also Vector CAD/CAM that use to come with the ShopBot. They now have better software packaged with it. Only thing I use Vector for is creating offsets for making larger binding channels in my peghead veneers. To "draw" F holes and peghead veneers, I use CorelDraw. If you don't mind an older version, you can buy 8.0 on eBay for $25. IT's all you need. But, you can spend several times the cost of the machine on software, if you are so inclined. I've spent $25, and that's all on software. Another possibility is to find someone who is a whiz at CAD/CAM and pay them to create your programs. That might be the most cost effective route. Any .dxf file can be converted using the ShopBot software to the proprietary .sbp ShopBot code. It's quite user friendly and the support from the people at ShopBot is nothing less than amazing. If it's a problem with something besides the ShopBot, like trying to figure out how to trace a bitmap drawing with the bezier tool in CorelDraw, ShopBot hosts a great forum where you can get a lot of help with other issues. There is a learning curve and some inital set-up time.

Is it cost effective for the small shop? Depends on how many instruments you build a year. If I were only doing 2 or 3 a year, I might not be tempted. I turn out about 12 instruments a year and I wouldn't think of trying to build without it.

Lynn

More CNC info - https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ed-CNC-service

CNC vs pantograph:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...ter-pantograph

More CNC discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...ed-CNC-machine

CNC machining of top:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...f-Mandolin-Top

CNC plate carving service discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...arving-service

Users of CNC tops and backs:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...tops-and-backs

Dale Ludewig - CNC milling http://www.ludewigmandolins.com

Good discussion CNC software issues:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...th-CNC-machine

More CNC software discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...CAD-CAM-advice

CNC back and sides
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...tops-and-backs

CNC personalized service discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...ed-CNC-service

CNC neck hold down discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...cks?styleid=10

CNC plates on Shopbot:
https://pumpingstationone.org/2016/0...n-the-shopbot/

CNC F5 g-code / dwf file:
https://www.cnczone.com/forums/music...-software.html

CNC electric mando build with Shop Sabre Pro video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPKpZC1EggA


Duplicarvers:

Pantographic duplicator carvers:
Gemini wood carver http://www.wood-carver.com
Pricing. http://wood-carver.com/unispecs.html

Gentili Duplicator (Italy) http://jmscolpitori.weebly.com/unive...uplicator.html

Another one http://radarcarve.net/index.php?p=modelone

Or something like this Gorton Model 3U http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/2822200...&ul_noapp=true

Aptius Mandolins carving w pantograph http://apitiusmandolins.com/A-Model%...ng%20page.html

Clone 4D duplicarver kits. http://www.cloneduplicator.co.uk/clone_4d/kits.php

F Holes:

Cutting w coping or jewelers saw. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...F-hole-cutting


Plate joining:

Rubbed joints. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ped-edge-joint


My procedure:

"Shoot" the halves of the plate with the jointer plane. I want no light to show through anywhere, like Paul said. That means no light at the ends, no little spot in the middle. Furthermore, when the joint is done, you can feel the vacuum between the pieces. You can hardly rub them together because they grab.

Clamp one half in a vice, jointed edge up, and level it. I use a little torpedo level, and check that it is close to level both ways. (That really means all ways.) Gravity will be holding the other half on top, and I've had them lean to one side and spoil the joint, so I level them.

Warm the pieces for more working time with the hide glue. I work under one of those red bathroom heat lamps bulbs in an archetects lamp, and I use a heat gun too.

"Slop" some glue on the edge of the piece in the vice. I want plenty of glue, and I don't want to waste time, so I brush on plenty. I don't care if it runs down the sides of the wood, and any excess will be squeezed out.

Position the second piece on top of the one in the vice, press down firmly, but not too hard, and rub back and forth. At first, it feels like there's grease in there, because the glue is so slick, but it soon squeezes out, and you feel the vacuum of the close fit. Now I need to slide the piece to the position I want it quickly, because the glue will start to tack. As soon as it does, let go and step away. I check the glue line to see that there is squeeze-out everywhere, and if there is not, I take it apart and start over.

Leave it in the vice to dry. Sometimes, if I'm doing several, I'll wait several minutes, and carefully transfer the piece to a hand screw clamp, so that I can set it out of the way and use the vice for others, but I keep them in the same upright position for 24 hours.

Next day, I plane down the surface of the glue joint enough to see the glue line, and if it's not invisible, I rip the joint out and start over.


Head/Tailblocks:

Laminated Paulownia. http://www.worldpaulownia.com/paulownia-wood-blanks/
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ks-and-linings

Building the Rim and Closing the Box:

Siminoff F5 Mandolin Rim and Block assembly https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0qlF6FsmIQ0

Rim, block, scroll relationship. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...neck-questions

Siminoff assembling the rim, step by step: http://siminoff.net/cms/wp-content/u...s-15-steps.pdf

Bending sides:

Small bending metal strap. http://www.howardcore.com/cgi-bin/sh...ding%20Iron%22

Good bending sides discussion: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...nding-F5-sides

Side strap and wood caul for bending scroll. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-bending-strap

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Pg 4.

Bindings and Binding Jigs:

How to scrape bindings video. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools...g_Scraper.html

Austin Clark binding jig. https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_con...1tp33MlHqRvX5g
And. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...40#post1475040

Good binding jig options. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...inding+channel

More http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...inding-Channel

Cutting plate binding edge before gluing. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...e-after-gluing

Celluloid bindings: AX Inc. http://www.axinc.net/Binding_Strips_s/43.htm
More http://www.axinc.net/Celluloid_Bindi...nates_s/56.htm

Binding/ acetone “glue”. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ding-'Goop'

And Rothko & Frost: http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/bindin...ing-materials/

Binding discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...inding-routing

Another. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...inding-Channel

Tortoise binding - ebony points. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-shell-binding

Siminoff Routing binding series:

part 1 of 4: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8zkC8qRdR4E

Siminoff dremel attachment for routing - for Dremel 100, 200, 400, and 4000 (but not 4200):
http://www.grizzly.com/products/Simi...r-Dremel/H9890

Using pin router & templates to cut fingerboard wood binding (rather than bend)
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...8-Wood-Binding

Veneer for purfling. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...g-Koa-and-what

Binding miters:
John Hamlett: One of the main things is:
Don't miter both ends of a piece at the same time. In other words, plan the work so that you only have to make a precise mitering cut on one end of a binding piece at a time and leave the other end long, glue the piece, then miter the next piece into it. It usually takes a couple of cuts to get a good miter, and if you are working both ends of the piece you can run out of length trying to get a good miter and the correct length at the same time.

Whether top or back, I glue the long piece that goes around the scroll and down to the lower body point first, next, the piece that finishes the scroll and the short part of the lower body point, next, the piece that goes from one body point to the other, next the piece from the upper body point toward the neck, and last, the 15th fret cross piece on the top or the piece around the heel button on the back (one time when I have to miter both ends).

I do all the binding with the neck installed.

(I would have one less step if started with the short piece on the lower body point, but I like to start with longer pieces and use up the cut-offs for the shorter pieces.)

Another Hamlett:

A few things, all applicable to celluloid binding, not necessarily other plastics:

I use Duco, diluted with a little acetone, and let lots squeeze out like Jim, but I don't wipe it off, I scrape it off after it dries. I glue about 3 or 4 inches of the channel and tape the binding in, then more glue and more tape 'til its done.

My prefered tape is 3M 232 masking tape. It's tough and doesn't pull spruce splinters too bad. Heating the tape with a hair drier or heat gun can help it come loose from the spruce.

I don't cut the bindings down for several days after they are glued. The next day is too soon for me.

If I find any gaps or irregularities after it's dry and the tape is off, I heat the binding with a heat gun to soften it, and press it into position and hold it 'til it cools. That closes the gap. Then a little Duco drooled onto the former gap will seep in and glue it in place. No more gap.

Duco alternatives. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ew-suggestions

Andrew Mowry: Darryl, could you just hold/tape the binding in place and then brush acetone onto the joint? I laminate binding that way all the time, and it works really well, survives heating, bending, etc. The acetone causes a little swelling, but I think that's mostly gone after a few days, and I'm not sure you'd notice it on pickguards where it's all the same material so it's swelling and shrinking uniformly.

Also, I know you want something that welds the celluloid, but I use thin CA on my pickguards, fretboards, etc., and the brand I use (Bob Smith Industries) does melt celluloid a little, so I think it's basically welding it together. I haven't seen or heard of it failing. It's also instant, so there's no need for tape. I do use binding "glop" or a drop of acetone at the miters.

Wood binding
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...7-Wood-binding
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...4-Wood-Binding
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...0-Wood-Binding

CA glue for wood binding http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...tboard-binding

Tortoise celluloid. http://www.axinc.net/Celluloid_Binding_Ivoroid_s/70.htm and http://shop.custominlay.com/Red-Tort...tic-CI-101.htm

Grained ivory celluloid. http://www.axinc.net/Celluloid_Binding_Ivoroid_s/55.htm

Celluloid with purfling. http://www.axinc.net/Celluloid_Bindi...fling_s/57.htm

Celluloid binding and Duco plus Acetone: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...83#post1398483

Router bits: http://www.precisebits.com/default.htm

Good discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...inding-channel

https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/a...6&d=1356104260

Tom Ellis on binding:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...r-jig-Bindings

You guys are on the right track but I would advise that you always use 2 opposing spool clamps so the body rides on three points. The bottom edge of the rabbit will be much cleaner. Even for a mandolin, you need a pretty decent size table top. Make a cover for the router table and use it as a work surface (junk depot) when not in use. Don't break it down, leave it always set up ready for work. Micro adjust is not necessary, just figure out the depth and tighten it down (you do have slots for adjusting). Take first cut with tape around the bearing then remove the tape for final pass. One final tip that most people don't know is if you intend to end up with .060 thickness of ivoroid on your binding, you can't start with .060 binding, my channel is .110 for .020 white .020 black .070 ivoroid

Andrew Mowry’s binding jig (Dude copy):https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ng-routing-jig

Tom Ellis’ version:

I'd set up a router table like this. The other side of the mandolin is held up with spool clamps
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...nding-channels

Wilkie Instruments:

Don't know if anyone has mentioned this yet. For cutting the binding channel on my mandolins and archtop guitars I use different size "doughnuts" in combination with the LMI bearing set on my router table. I just measure the height of the arch first then use the corresponding doughnut to keep the cut at 90 degrees. I don't think it's even really necessary to make different size rings, one that is approximately the right height should be fine. The only real trick is to cut the whole thing in one continuous motion with no stops and starts. Very quick, easy and extremely accurate. I climb-cut the whole way to avoid tear-out. Works great for me.

Corners:

Grained ivoroid: https://www.axinc.net/mobile/Product...uctCode=SCI250
And discussion: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...point-material

Neck Joint - Dovetail:

Dovetails revisited: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...1-dovetail-jig
And https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ail-re-visited

Siminoff dovetail videos:
part 1: neck tenon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlPQX0KlnpI
Part 2: body mortise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlPQX0KlnpI

Dudenbostel dovetail neck jig:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...etail-Neck-Jig

Austin Clark dovetail video. Part 1:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AX17AZ4Mkmw

Dovetail discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...ail-neck-joint

Dovetail discussion and some links. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...vetail-by-hand

Peter Coombe neck, carbon fiber rod, & dovetail http://www.petercoombe.com/Neck_and_dovetail.htm

Mowry/Condino neck jig discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...herie-Magazine

James Condino neck jig: https://vimeo.com/149088032

Octave mando dovetail joint video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbBYzcu2oqM

Octave mando dovetail joint by hand. Very complete:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LbBYzcu2oqM

Hand cutting a dovetail joint:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...vetail-by-hand

Weber dovetail short video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EGO0K6rE0Hs

Weber Mandolin dovetail details:
https://webermandolins.com/blog/an-i...ail-neck-joint

Dovetail dimensions:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...ail-dimensions

Dovetail and other joints discussion:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/t...lin-neck-joint

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Pg 5.

Neck Joint - Other:

Neck Mandocello ultimate neck joint video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zz7iiWvmM8I

Siminoff V joint: http://siminoff.net/cms/wp-content/u...ad_v-joint.pdf

Siminoff V Joint - Head Block. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SyYXFCuPEx0
And neck heel. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=R_nwjwRViAE

Siminoff review of all neck joints. http://siminoff.net/anatomy-neck-joint/

Neck angle discussion. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...etail-Neck-Jig

Neck joint in bandsaw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oL4dKOB3bVE


Neck Carving:

Shaping neck. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-Carving-necks

Laminating 3 piece necks. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...wo-Piece-Necks

Laminate mando necks. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...-laminate-neck

Dave’s Shaves - spokeshaves: http://www.ncworkshops.com/products.html
Sharpening Dave’s Shaves w Dogbone: http://www.ncworkshops.com/PDF_Guide.pdf

Microplane rasp (Dude says better than Surfoam) https://www.amazon.com/Microplane-Sn.../dp/B000HDORTU

Carbon Rods:

Some sources and cutting techniques: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...ghlight=carbon

More http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...d-of-truss-rod

Andrew Mowry: I use a bigger piece (1/4" by 1/2"), but it's probably overkill. It's partly why I'm so confident about it, though. The material is light enough that I can use a lot and still have it be lighter than a single-action rod. I run it as low as possible in the neck, and continue it into the headstock.

I agree with Rick about less energy loss with stiffer necks. I don't see any reason to expend energy on moving the neck when our main goal is to transfer that energy to the bridge.

Truss Rods:

Modifications to avoid broken pegheads. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...oken-peg-heads

More here in post #149. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...d-thread/page6

Steve Smith (Cumberland) rods. http://cumberlandacoustic.com/produc...in-truss-rods/

Rods vs Carbon fiber. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...902-Truss-rods

Headstocks & Inlay:

Headstock taper/thickness. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-and-Thickness

Ebonizing ebony:
I use black aniline dye (available from LMI) dissolved in denatured alcohol and apply 1-2 coats to really let it soak in. (Paul Hosstetler)

Dyed Pear discussion and source https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ng-the-peghead

http://www.amwoodinc.com/pricelistv.aspx

Veneer for back of headstock. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ack-of-peghead

And: https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...head-veneering

Wiens method w dyed pearwood/holly laminate: http://wiensmandolins.com/making-the-neck-fingerboard/

Binding peg head overlay before attaching veneer
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-the-headstock
I've done it both ways, but I find that binding the overlay first is much easier for me. You never have to cut a binding channel, and you actually never have to worry about the angles, because they just work themselves out. Also, you can cut out the overlays with router templates, meaning that their shape will be very consistent.

The main thing, like Hans mentioned, is to make sure that the binding starts out about 0.04" thicker than its finished thickness. So, for typical i/b/i binding I do the thin black/ivoroid lines first, then I add 0.09" ivoroid to leave plenty for me to saw/sand away. When I cut the headstock on the bandsaw I barely cut away the edge of the binding, and then I sand it the rest of the way down to its final dimension.

You can see in this photo how thick the binding on the F5 overlays starts out

Routing and binding peghead. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ng-the-peghead

Using Veneer. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ide-binding-f5

More on veneer from Troy Harris (Facebook). Using dyed pear wood and holly veneer.
Hi, The veneer total thickness is 3/32". Approx 1/32" black dyed pear and 1/16" holly.
Best, Troy

Hi, 3/32" is the thickness of the front veneer. The back veneer is less than 1/32", approx .025". You can install the binding to the veneer before you glue it onto the pegged or after. I prefer to install the binding after I have glued the veneer to the peghead. Choose the method that works best for you.
Best, Troy


Pot & Flower: http://luthiersupply.com/pot-flower-small-peg-head.html
Pot & Vine: http://luthiersupply.com/pot-vine-long-peg-head.html
One of four Vine options: http://luthiersupply.com/siminoff-ma...-peg-head.html
Traditional fern: http://luthiersupply.com/116/589/pro...ad-inlays.html

De Paule Supply -Good source for pre-cut inlays. http://www.luthiersupply.com/
De Paule Supply how-to page: http://luthiersupply.com/howtopage.html

Siminoff H5 build discussing inlay in post #12 http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...inoff-H5-Build

Foredom 44T handpiece: https://www.amazon.com/Foredom-44T-H.../dp/B000189RMS

Bishop Cochran Foredom and Bosch router bases and accessories

William Ng lnlay school/online videos - router base for 44T etc: https://wnwoodworkingschool.com/shop...e-for-foredom/

Carson magnifying visor w light: https://www.amazon.com/Optical-Magni.../dp/B01B64353M

Basic how to inlay. http://www.instructables.com/id/Handcut-inlay/

http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...ow-To-Do-Inlay

Transfers (vs inlays) http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...ay-vs-transfer

“Inlay” transfer stickers. https://www.inlaystickers.com

Good post w lots of abalone and white MOP examples http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...-shell-is-used

Custom logos. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...php?8658-Logo-


Traditional fern inlay:http://luthiersupply.com/116/589/pro...ad-inlays.html

or the small flower pot http://luthiersupply.com/pot-flower-small-peg-head.html


Siminoff inlay filler technique: http://siminoff.net/cms/wp-content/u..._fillermix.pdf

Jim Hilburn. http://www.hilburnmandolins.com/gallery46.html

Austin Clark scroll carving: I have to say, this is what I always dread the most. One little slip at this point can cause so much "pain" (or bleeding, in your case!)
I just did scroll ledges yesterday for my two current F's and I have to wonder why I don't start building A's every time I do this.

I use a purfling marker to mark the top line and then freehand in close with a dremel end mill using the chuck of the dremel as a depth stop. The end mill is very close to the same thickness as the binding. (I only rough out the scroll before this step and finish it after the binding is installed.)Then I finish with hand tools. Gouges,chisels and files.
I guess I at least feel better that so many others are using a similar method as I do. I'll have to try the flush cut saw method though, it seems a little calmer and less stressful than the end mill. Thank god violin scrolls don't have binding!!!
-austin

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Pg 6.

Fingerboards:

Staining w aniline dye and other options http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...Staining-ebony

Ebonising with leather dye, Fiebings or Angelus: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...gerboard-black

Fiebings alcohol based black leather dye. https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-50-2...TF8&th=1&psc=1

Radius fingerboards, wider necks and fatter frets. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...t-fingerboards

Fingerboard radiusing service. http://www.allenguitar.com/fretboard_rad.htm

Minwax 2718

Siminoff gluing caul jIg: http://siminoff.net/cms/wp-content/u...board-caul.pdf

FB extension mods http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...t-do-it-myself

And http://www.frets.com/FretsPages/Luth...roptongue.html

Zero fret. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...0170-zero-fret

Thick frets trend. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...-thicker-frets
EVO 37080 gold frets. https://www.jescar.com/shop/jescar-fret-wire-37080/
Also consider 43 x 80. EVO 43080.

Fretwire comparison chart. http://www.lutherie.net/fret.chart.html

Carbide inlay bits http://www.miniatureendmill.com/standard2flute.php

Nuts:

Nut spacing calculator (in a web site). http://www.apitiusmandolins.com/Oliv...og%20Page.html

Bridges:

Bridges, truss rod, pickguards and other mando parts. http://cumberlandacoustic.com/produc...d-accessories/

Fitting Bridges. http://frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/...t/fitfeet.html
And here. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...Where-to-start

Tuners:

Rubner tuners - beautiful. http://www.rubnertuners.com/new-page-1/

Rubner worm-over tuners http://www.rubnertuners.com/worm-ove...-machines-new/

Stew Mac Golden Age. http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_...in_Tuners.html

Tailpieces:

Cumberland. http://cumberlandacoustic.com/produc...lin-tailpiece/

Tailpiece engraving. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...iece-engraving

Pickguard:

Demise of pickguard. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...the-pick-guard

Labels:

Jamie Wiens printing plate and die cut letter pressed label. http://wiensmandolins.com/adventures-in-luthiery/

Mando Cafe. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...63-Label-maker

MC discussion plus balloons. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...of-instruments

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Pg 7.

Finishing:

Great info on Tru Oil finishing. http://www.mandolinluthier.com/Hfinish-tru-oil.htm

Spray guns 101. http://www.anzlf.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=259

Jamie Wiens techniques. http://wiensmandolins.com/staining-finishing/

Multiple “how to sunburst” video links. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ubbed-sunburst

Good sunburst discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...49-Sunbursting

Another. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...burst-on-an-F5

Pretty tobacco burst stain. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...6-New-F5-Build

Gorgeous dark sunburst on Daryl Anger’s octave mandolin in video http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...t-string-Mando

Sunburst technique. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...burst-on-an-F5

James Condino sunburst how to:
https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ique-on-spruce

And http://www.finewoodworking.com/2007/...unburst-finish

And http://condino.com/skoolin/

Condino hand rubbed sunburst. http://www.luth.org/back_issue/al125-128/al125.html

Sunburst discussion. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...t-the-hard-way

Sunburst spray Gun. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...what-spray-gun

Gilchrist method for sunburst and spirit varnish http://www.gilchristmandolins.com/finish/

Sunburst technique. http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...763#post784763

Sealing sunburst before FP. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/a...p/t-43053.html

Great summary of several folks techniques. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...ubbed-sunburst

John Hamlett’s sunburst technique. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...unburst-finish

Austin Clark octave Mandolins. http://www.clarkmandolins.com/octave-mandolins.html he uses Epiphanes Clear Gloss (not “Wood Finish Gloss”) varnish, brushed on in winter and sprayed on in summer.

Clark - FWIW, I no longer use any additives to my shellac. I use good quality alcohol, good quality flakes and FRESHLY mixed product applied VERY THINLY on top of WELL CURED oil varnish. This seems to give the best sheen, durability and longevity I have found for the type of finish process I use. At least for me.

More from Clark about Epiphanes: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...56#post1203556
And here: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...09#post1171809

And: http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...29#post1150029

More from A. Clark:
Default Re: what's your favorite varnish brandand why?)
I use Epiphanes Clear Gloss Varnish (as opposed to their Wood Finish Gloss) to build. Usually about 3 or 4 coats, depending on the varnish's mood, will get me level and then I French polish shellac on over that. I brush in the shop when I can't spray outside. It is very tolerant of humidity changes and usually sands well after 24 hours. As for the UV inhibitors, perhaps it will help keep my colors from fading?
Austin Clark
http://www.clarkmandolins.com

KTM-SV water based varnish technique: http://www.newenglandluthiers.org/co...ed_finish.html

Violin 1704N recipe: https://www.violins.ca/varnish/violi...h_recipes.html

More about 1704N. https://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/s...Violin-varnish

Hans Brentrup

Danny, I use transtint, but use water as solvent. Smells a lot less. Wouldn't use anything else than TT. I use an Iwata AB with the finest tip. I thin out the color quite a bit, and back off about 3 ft when I start, and push quite a bit of mix through at about 20-30 pounds. As it builds up, I start moving in closer, work my way around not trying to do it in a "one pass round". As I start to get what I am looking for, I start to add TT to darken and dial back the mix push and go round some more, starting to move outward. I keep adding TT and finally add some (not a lot) black to darken the edges to the darkness I like. I never add so much black that it looks black. I only dial back the AB if I have some "funny" spots that need careful touch up and that is close work with very little material flow. After every few coats, I will hang it up and step back for a good long look at what needs to still be done. Usually will take me about 10-15 "coats" to do a whole burst.
"Seeing" what you have is a problem. Really can't tell till you have 4-5 coats of clear on. It's mostly a sense you develop, to me it is mostly a light/dark kind of thing. Is it too light? Too dark?
I used to hand rub the dye before I bought the airbrushes,

Accessories:

Dudette mandolin strap. https://www.elderly.com/accessories/...rap-129849.htm

Hoffee cases. http://www.carbonfibercases.com/home.html

Bling:

Really cool green color scheme w/ curly maple bindings
http://www.mandolincafe.com/forum/sh...-Maple-Binding

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Whew. Hope I haven’t wasted MC’s bandwidth or broken any rules. Doing this, I’ve noticed that some sections are woefully thin, mainly those farther along in the build, since I’ve been focused mostly on getting going.

Now that I’m back I hope to update and add many more, and will delete dead links as I find them.

Thanks to all here for a great forum. Any future succes I might have isnthanks to a great start from each of you.

Jon

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Looks like this didn’t seem to ring many bells with anyone (other than one��). Prob too basic fora mostly advanced forum.

[MikeEdgerton]

Looks like this didn’t seem to ring many bells with anyone (other than one��). Prob too basic fora mostly advanced forum.

This is the sort of post where you may not get an immediate reaction but someplace down the line someone will thank you for it. The people looking for the information will appreciate the effort.

[brunello97]

This is the sort of post where you may not get an immediate reaction but someplace down the line someone will thank you for it. The people looking for the information will appreciate the effort.

Indeed.

A monumental task and welcome resource.

Mike, is this worth a "sticky" to locate it at the top of the subforum?


Mick

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Not really looking to be a sticky. This doesn’t pretend to be inclusive, esp of Mandolin Cafe topics. Just a random collection of things interesting to me.

[Tavy]

Also not commented so far, but there's lots of good stuff here, looks like the research material for a book

I haven't read through in detail yet, but I'm sure I'll dip into bits as and when: as many people no doubt will. Keep it coming.

[SBJ]

I've built four mandolins but I still search for all this stuff, so this is a tremendous resource. Thanks for your efforts.