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Thread: Mandolin Parts

  1. #1

    Default Mandolin Parts

    Hi, building a 10 string A5. I am an experienced guitar builder. First mandolin. I have neck, sides, and plates done. Want to order these parts: (sources please)

    Bridge
    10 string tail piece
    End pin (what is used for neck strap pin?)
    Correct fret wire (are there templates?)
    Is nut bone? Hand shaped?
    Strings for a 10 string

    Already have Rubner 5 on a side tuners.

    Thanks!

    Mike

  2. #2
    Mando-Accumulator Jim Garber's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    The hardest to find would be the ten string tailpiece but there is one for sale in the classifieds right now: https://www.mandolincafe.com/ads/196784#196784
    Jim

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  3. #3
    Registered User Mandobart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    I have an Allen cast 10 string tailpiece on both my 10 string mandola and 10 string mandocello built by Tom TJ Jessen at Cricketfiddle. This tailpiece takes either loop or ball end strings.

    For strings on these instruments I buy Curt Mangan phosphor bronze mandola strings and Curt Mangan phosphor bronze mandocello strings. Top each one with a pair of Curt Mangan loop end plain steel .010's. All available at Curt Mangan website.

    It depends on the scale length of your instrument which strings you'll ultimately need. But if you choose the Allen tailpiece I have, you can make a custom set from any guitar or mandolin sets/individual strings out there since it takes loops or balls.

    I've changed out most all my strap buttons on my mandolins, mandola, octave mandolin, mandocello and guitars to these Waverly buttons, in color, finish and screw (gold or silver) to match and complement existing hardware on the instrument.

    Bone nut. Blanks are available many places - Stew Mac is costliest, I like LMII or Philadelphia.

    Bridge should be an adjustable two-piece base and saddle, typically ebony or rosewood. You can buy the base and hardware (posts and thumbwheels) from LMII, Philadelphia or Ste-Mac. You're probably going to have to carve and compensate the saddle yourself.
    Last edited by Mandobart; Dec-02-2022 at 12:06pm.

  4. #4
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    A hand-carved bone nut is the best choice.
    Fretwire with a crown ~.080" wide x ~.040" high will provide good results.
    Traditional endpins are violin style and would require a tapered reamer to install.
    A modern screw-in strap button is a fairly common alternative for an end pin.

    Whether or not to install a strap button for the neck, what to use, and where to locate it can be debated for pages on forums such as this.

    Stewmac charges too much for bone. LMI will have bone, fret wire, and most of whatever else you might need.

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    I would make your own bridge from a blank of ebony. It will have to be fit to the top anyway. It will also benefit you making your own to get the intonation right for the 10 string. If you made the mandolin, the bridge isn't that hard.
    THE WORLD IS A BETTER PLACE JUST FOR YOUR SMILE!

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    As mentioned, Allen has a 10 string tailpiece.
    Philladelphia also carries several sizes and types of fret wire.
    For the bridge, making it yourself is probably the best choice. I believe Vern Breke is still making custom bridges but you would still have to dial in the compensation and fit it to the instrument.
    Bob Schmidt

  7. #7
    Registered User Charles E.'s Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Call Steve at Cumberland Acoustics, he should be able to help with a ten string bridge.

    https://cumberlandacoustic.com/product/mandolin-bridge/
    Charley

    A bunch of stuff with four strings

  8. #8

    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Thanks all. I did buy that tailpiece in the classifieds. Very informative thread. Thanks so much!

    If someone here has a 10 string, could you please measure the width of the string spread at the nut? Also, neck width. Is there a general rule on string spacing (the double strings), I know how to space strings in general.

    Mike

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Mike,
    Graham McDonald's Bouzouki book covers a five coarse instrument. He uses 42mm for the nut, but since you are building it you are free to set it any width you want. That book has some good information on building a 5 coarse instrument that could be helpful for you.
    Bob Schmidt

  10. #10
    Mandolin tragic Graham McDonald's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    It might be useful to get in contact with Lawrence Smart, who has made several 10 string mandolins. The 42mm nut width in the Bouzouki Book would be rather wider than most mandolin players would be comfortable with I suspect. For mandolins I usually use a 30mm nut and for mandolas 32mm. Add 5.5mm centre-centre for a high e course to a mandola nut plus 2mm between the top strings so around 38-39mm for a five course would be a good starting point. Alternatively add around 6mm between the courses plus 3.5mm between the C strings to a mandolin nut width

    Cheers.

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  12. #11

    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Graham McDonald View Post
    It might be useful to get in contact with Lawrence Smart, who has made several 10 string mandolins. The 42mm nut width in the Bouzouki Book would be rather wider than most mandolin players would be comfortable with I suspect. For mandolins I usually use a 30mm nut and for mandolas 32mm. Add 5.5mm centre-centre for a high e course to a mandola nut plus 2mm between the top strings so around 38-39mm for a five course would be a good starting point. Alternatively add around 6mm between the courses plus 3.5mm between the C strings to a mandolin nut width

    Cheers.
    Graham, this is about as close as I have come to getting the measurements. Honestly, I am a newbie when it comes to this style instrument. My nut width is 34 mm. Very close to your number. On guitars, I use that stew-mac string spacing ruler. Guessing that is no help here. Where the C string is is a mystery to me. So. from low to high would be greatly helpful and appreciated. String gauges a mystery too. Excuse my newbie-ness. And thanks!

    Mike

  13. #12

    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Quote Originally Posted by Charles E. View Post
    Call Steve at Cumberland Acoustics, he should be able to help with a ten string bridge.

    https://cumberlandacoustic.com/product/mandolin-bridge/
    I did call Steve. He said they do not make bridges for 10 strings. He may still be able to help, I may have to modify one of his blank designs, but he's not sure. Any other sources? Thanks

  14. #13
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Get a chunk of ebony, and carve away everything that doesn't look like a bridge.

    I'm not being a smart-aleck here. If Pops, Sunburst, and I were all to make a bridge, we probably would not use the same tools or do things in the same order.
    If you want to make an adjustable bridge, screws and thumbwheels are available from Axiom at www.axinc.net.
    If you don't have a source for ebony, Woodcraft often has it in their stores, or you can buy an acoustic guitar bridge blank from LMI, Stewmac, etc.

    A couple of hints:

    1. Get a big enough chunk of wood to make 2 or 3 bridges, in case you're not happy with the first one.
    2. If you make an adjustable bridge, drill the holes in the saddle and the base before you work them down to final dimensions to avoid splitting the wood.
    3. I'm pretty sure that the most common thread size for the adjustment screws is 5-40, which is a less common size, so you may have to order a tap.
    4. If you make a one piece non-adjustable bridge, you can take a page from Gibson's notebook. Although their late teens bridges look like they're made out of one piece of wood, they're actually made of two pieces-- a base section, and a compensated saddle section that have been laminated together. This makes it easier to cut the compensation into the upper half of the bridge. The radius at the bottom of the bridge base can be cut and rough-fitted early in the process if you desire, but it's easier to finish-cut the perimeter of the rest of the bridge after the 2 pieces are laminated together.
    Last edited by rcc56; Jan-07-2023 at 3:29pm.

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  16. #14

    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Quote Originally Posted by rcc56 View Post
    Get a chunk of ebony, and carve away everything that doesn't look like a bridge.
    I think its the compensation points that slow me down. All bridges I look at have a very similar compensation scheme. My guess is the first 4 courses would be the same. The fifth?

    Mike

  17. #15
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    On an old Gibson mandola, the factory position for the C course is about 1 mm farther back than the G course.

    My experience is that factory cut bridges generally need a little adjustment according to an individual instrument's needs. So when I make a mandolin bridge, I start with the A and G courses a little farther forward than a factory bridge, and move them back as necessary to suit the instrument. Remember that if you get one course too far back, you have to move the whole bridge forward and hope you've got enough material left to bring the remaining courses back.

    I like to start with a little extra material behind the courses so I can pull them back without running out of material. I set the bridge in place with the 1st string and the bass string perfectly in tune, then adjust the others until I have them where I want them. Finally, I take any excess material off the back.

  18. #16

    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    OK. How about this. How exactly do you make the cuts? A file? I have plenty of ebony hanging around the shop. I can hand build this. I think someone sent me a link for the metal parts. Does the base of the bridge sit directly on the top? or is there cork or something padding it? I'd guess not since you want to transfer vibrations to top?

  19. #17
    Registered User Mandobart's Avatar
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    Default Re: Mandolin Parts

    Yes the floating bridge base for an archtop guitar, Sel-Mac guitar or mando, flat or archtop mandolin with tailpiece, etc. always sits directly on the soundboard. It's important to fit the base to the top to get full contact whether it has distinct feet or is in continuous contact.

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